To reduce this unpleasant possibility, the old Isuzu received a set of new Rancho 5000 shocks, a 2-inch suspension lift, and four new 31-inch Toyo mud-terrains before leaving Japan. With its turbodiesel Engine and factory limited-slip, the old 'Zu is no slouch in the rough stuff, but a little extra insurance never hurts. I also brought along my usual boonie kit, which includes a hand winch, a rope, a shovel, extra tools, and a few essentials (Led Zeppelin CDs and portable in-car coffee maker).
To save a few bucks and experience Russian culture beyond the fake smiles of hotel lobbies and restaurants, I opted to home-stay in the capital city Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. For the past few years, Sakhalin has been experiencing an oil industry boom, and hotels are often booked well in advance and can cost hundreds per night. By comparison, my home-stay-complete with a private room and all the delicious Russian home-cooking I could eat-cost just $45 per night.
On first impression, Yuzhno is a surprisingly funky town, a kind of city-in-progress where people seem to be having more fun than they should be. Close to half a million people live in Sakhalin's 19 towns, but some 200,000 are concentrated in Yuzhno. Summers are short on Sakhalin, so open-air markets bustle with activity late into the night, music and laughter pour onto the streets from small bars and restaurants, and late-night flower shops do a booming business selling to Russian men with love in their hearts and vodka in their veins.
Car theft is a major issue in many Russian cities, and Yuhzno is no exception, so every night Yura insisted I park in a nearby secure parking lot-which turned out to be a gravel yard patrolled by a few sleepy dogs and disinterested boys. He also made sure I used my car alarm, escorted me to the parking lot each night, and negotiated the price, otherwise I would have paid much more than the 175 rubles (about $6) charged locals.
The day after our unforgettable shotgun tour of Tunaycha Lake, he also insisted on taking me for a quick run up Bolshevik Mountain, home to Yuzhno's only ski hill. Although there's no snow on the hill this time of year, the mountain towers over the capital city and is an imposing sight. Even more imposing is the muddy, rutted road that passes the ski area and leads up to the peak.
When we arrive at the entrance, we find a gate manned by four off-duty soldiers drinking beer and playing cards. One of the men walks over and speaks to Yura, who somehow convinces them to open the gate and let us pass. Fifteen minutes later, when it's too late to turn around, I find out why. "We must return in one hour, or they arrest you for trespass," he tells me. "Foreigners should not go here." I try to force the thoughts of an abandoned truck and prison term out of my mind long enough to enjoy the drive.
Thanks to the challenging trail, steep incline, and amazing views, it almost works-but I keep one very attentive eye on the clock. My guide, of course, is unconcerned. "Too much worry," he says when I insist on heading back as soon as we reach the peak. When we arrive at the gate half an hour late and covered in mud, it's wide open and the soldiers, concentrating on their card game, ignore us as we drive past.
During the next few days, I explore much of the southern part of the island on my own, heading out from Yuzhno each morning at first light with no specific destination in mind. I make the most of my short time, visiting remote fishing villages, driving along pristine beaches, and exploring challenging 4x4 trails that seem to go on forever. Several years ago, government permits were needed to explore Sakhalin's wilderness areas, but today most of the island is accessible and gates are rare.
But on the main roads, military and police checkpoints are common, and vehicles with foreign license plates are stopped every time. Most of the soldiers I encountered were friendly and professional, but a few did their job with Stalinesque thoroughness, lecturing me in Russian and insisting on some document I always seemed to be missing. But since my passport, car insurance, and international driver's license were all "in order," I was usually on my way within minutes.
With rules of the road that can seem Darwinian (survival of the biggest) and few on-road amenities, driving in Sakhalin isn't for everyone. Neither is four-wheeling, as there are no rules, no amenities, and often no roads. But despite the risks-which are manageable-Sakhalin Island is a unique travel destination that makes for an unforgettable four-wheel-drive adventure.