If all else fails, you hitch up ol' Clydesdalepupper. Even in one's Darkest Hours, there's
Poor tike! Essentially, it's this: You want Third for the run out. You can handle it with a little clutch slipping on the start; Second is probably too low. So on that foremost sleeve you tap the opposite way you would to shift for Third; that is, you drift it back into the synchronizer with screwdriver and hammer, for forward as you would with the stick in your hand.
And so it goes for the other gears; that other slider sleeve is First and Second. To one side at the front (not the rear!) you'll find Reverse, plus either a collar coming from it or an oddball arm that fits into the tower when it's installed. You'll not remember all this when the print grows cold about how to get each gear. But at least take this away with you: (1) how to neutralize the box; (2) how to shift-just the how to; (3) be sure the drivetrain is unloaded; and (4) always neutralize one slider before you fuss with the other.
One very large thing to keep in mind, however, is that the countershaft-way down under the main shaft you're looking at-whirls a monumental amount of oil when it's turned. Maybe you can idle with it turning, but any more speed than that gives you and the interior of your rig a fantastic oil bath.
How then to get home with the tower off? Lay upon the opening something like a 2x6 a foot long. Have Lulu-Belle hold it in place with her No. 12 brogans. Dump in another pint about halfway home; you'll lose it even with considerable care. Try not to worry. Find a nice downhill place and shift to Fourth for the nonstop barn run. Try not to worry.
Automatic transmission: The auto tranny is a fairly foolproof device, which means it's terribly appropriate for certain ones amongst us. But a couple of bad things can happen and leave you in what is tragically known as static driving mode. Take the first case: You dialed fire with your quadrant properly set to Park, but nothing happened. You agitate the shifter, you try 'er in Neutral. Still nada. No solenoid click, nothing! This could prove to be a very long day.
Neutral safety switches: What has happened with this "foolproof'' device? With no solenoid click it means your starting circuit has got a big open circuit in it someplace. Where is it most likely? Why, ol' bud, in the lockout safety switch(es). The folks who designed these trannys cleverly made it impossible to start your rig in Drive or one of the gears. The circuit is complete only when you're in Neutral or Park. This avoids a sudden roar through the liquor store window or up onto your very own back porch. However, the switch(es) can be out of adjustment or broken. You probably had some warning already where you had to joggle the quadrant and such to make 'er light off. Unless you got the shop manual with you or really know where these switches are located (and how to set 'em), you are into the git-back mode. And it's really simple.
Just use the old hot-wire trick learned in yore days as a Mafia wheelman. One of your basic tools should be a jump-start cord, which is simply a pair of wires with alligator clips on one end and a switch in the middle (the normally off type). Without further ado, hook onto your solenoid and the battery, turn on the ignition (not to Start, just to On), and hit your jump-start switch. It is not a poor plan to have Lulu-B sit with 'er No. 12s on the brake pedal at a time like this, and for you to stand aside. This is just in case your quadrant linkage has slipped (not the safety switches) and she's in gear. So off you go, no sweat or fret.
Quadrant adjustment: If, however, your quadrant linkage has slipped, you have a bit more fun. Symptoms: You get no fire in Park or Neutral, but she may start in Drive; does not lock up the wheels in Park-that kinda thing. Again, this could not have come as a total shock to you. For weeks you been putting Kentucky windage on the quadrant to secure it in gear, and twice already she didn't feel like she dropped into Park (a metal pin pops into the tranny when the Park position is clean). So finally someone's improvidence has bit ya in the butt. You had it coming, but here's how to fix it!
First you take out the radiator, loosen the engine mounts, take out the engine, and dismantle the transmission. Ha! Gotcha! You don't really have to do that. But stay loose because you never know what's gonna happen.
What you actually do is sling yore magnificent bod under the left side of the rig where you can stare at the auto tranny. Note where the shift linkage goes into the box. Be sure the wheels're blocked and the emergency brake (if any) is set because now we're gonna take 'er outta Park and other devilish things that could getcha crunched if this bucket rolls. See that adjustment clamp or hold-down nut? Loosen it so that the quadrant handle can be moved without the gidge into the grindbox moving. Okay, dial the arm that goes into the tranny full clockwise. Feel it detent into something? That's Park; the pin has dropped and your rear wheels now should be locked up tight.
Fine. Tighten up the linkage, and by feeling the detents rack 'er two detents in the counterclockwise direction. Scream at Lulu-does that put 'er into indicated Drive? It should. Now with bod out in the open, try to start the rig in anything but Park or Neutral, which it should do. Nice work; they're looking for a good wrench at the filling station.