Tech Editor Sean Holman follows Mojave Road tradition and places a penny in the Penny Can.
Strangely enough, it was almost these revered Joshua trees that would halt the forward progress of the mighty H1 and our small caravan. With a vehicle so wide, and ancient trees that had every intention on staying right where they set root, there were many close calls as the H1 squeezed past Joshua trees lining both sides of the trail. Fortunately, if we can take an H1 through the whole stretch of the Mojave Road relatively unscathed, just about anything narrower (which is just about anything) will make it.
At mile 41.3, we stopped to add a penny to the famous Penny Can, which dangles on a wire from the arm of an elderly Joshua tree. This is just one of many traditions that travelers embrace while on the Mojave Road. Since we were in the middle of nowhere and feeling a bit spiritual with all the surrounding beauty and such, we also chanted and did a nifty Four Wheeler dance to ward off evil spirits and vehicle breakage, although at least one of us was sure we got it wrong and instead did something requesting the comeback of the Daihatsu Rocky.
Passing through mile 49.3, we encountered the steep slope into Watson Wash, which was the first section of the road to require low-range for easy going. The only difficult part of this short section of rutted downslope is choosing a good stable line along the narrow path. Just across the wash lies Rock Spring (4,800 feet), which over the years has hosted an Army camp, homesteads, and a stop-off for travelers looking to hydrate in this stretch of desert. Rock Spring became historically important, mostly due to its placement along the trail, and shared its water equally with anyone who needed it.
After 50 miles on the trail and the sun settling in for the night, we attempted to post camp at Rock Spring, where we were greeted by a father-daughter campout, featuring over-protective off-duty police officer dads who immediately informed us of the guns they were carrying, evidently not buying our story that we were magazine guys looking for a place to relax for the night. We decided it was best not to mix sarcastic off-duty magazine editors and smores, so we headed down the trail about two miles, where we found the historical site of Government Holes vacant.
According to the Mojave Road Guide, Government Holes is where, on November 8, 1925, one of the last classical gunfights of the Old West took place between Matt Burts and J.W. "Bill" Robinson, who ended each other's careers by emptying their .45s into one another. First drilled for water in 1859 by Phineas Banning (the namesake of Banning, California, and the man credited with creating the modern Port of Los Angeles) and enlarged by U.S. soldiers in 1860, Government Holes was an early camp spot for travelers and used as an operations point for the local cattle industry, and is still used for such things.
With the sun long since clocked out for the day, we had found our little piece of paradise for the night. As soon as we threw our rigs in to park and set up camp, storytelling ensued in front of a small campfire as the chili was warmed on the stove. It was all of the things I had been thinking of while stuck in the traffic, so many miles earlier in the day. The first half of this trip was about camaraderie, good times and old fashioned adventure-just how it should be when you take a break from it all and unwind in the beautifully slow-paced world that is the backcountry. (Ed. note-You can follow the second half of this staff adventure in next month's issue.)
Traveling the Mojave Road
There are no signs along the route and navigation is purely by rock cairns, carefully placed along the way by the volunteers. For the best experience, we recommend turning to Dennis G. Casebier's Mojave Road Guide, available online, which also fills you in on the historical significance of the area, mile by mile. No other guidebook is as comprehensive for this trail.
While the Mojave Road can be done in two days, it is best enjoyed in three or four, especially if you want to explore the side attractions. Most travelers start out at the AVI Casino in Laughlin, Nevada, where you can both stay the night before and fuel up before the trip. (They even have diesel.)
While the vast majority of the Mojave Road is passable in two-wheel drive, we recommend having four-wheel drive, because of how quickly the terrain or weather conditions can change or vary over 132 miles-especially on Soda Lake, which is encountered on the second half of the journey. Also recommended are recovery gear, five gallons of extra fuel, and enough food and water to last a week. Take note that the elevation change can affect temperatures drastically. During our trip in mid-April, we saw lows in the 40s and highs in the 90s.
Bottom line: Go Prepared.
-Sean P. Holman