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2007 Atacama, Chile Desert Raid

'Wheeling, Chilean style

Photography by Robin Stover

When you think of Chile, what comes to mind? A picturesque white sand beach nestled amongst vibrant green jungle foliage? Or perhaps the more well-known region in the south called Patagonia, where glaciers make up a large portion of the land mass? For me, Chile is a place that teased my fascination, a land so distant, so unknown, I had to explore it. As a proficient traveler, it was a place I knew I wanted to go.

  • My host, Patricio Rios, led the convoy all week long, so I spent a lot of time hanging out the window of his Suzuki Sidekick, looking back and taking pictures similar to this one. Most of the Atacama lacks vegetation, and it rarely if ever sees rainfall, so Chileans don't worry about staying on established trails. Every direction you look is available to drive in. Tread Lightly! simply doesn't exist. As you might expect, this concept was rather difficult for me to grasp.
    My host, Patricio Rios, led the convoy all week long, so I spent a lot of time hanging out
  • Prior to the start of the Raid, participants lined up in the streets of Copiapo for the opening ceremony. The atmosphere is carnival-like, with live music, street vendors, and random performances surrounding the city's Prat Plaza. After a short speech from city officials, everyone piled into their rigs and headed out into the Atacama Desert.
    Prior to the start of the Raid, participants lined up in the streets of Copiapo for the op
  • Patricio Rios demonstrates his ability to improvise. We noticed a gear whine coming from his Suzuki's transfer case, so Patricio had one of the event sponsors (who happened to be driving a 4x4 forklift) lift up the rear end of the Suzuki to make the transfer-case fill plug more accessible.
    Patricio Rios demonstrates his ability to improvise. We noticed a gear whine coming from h

When the opportunity presented itself to visit the Atacama Desert in northern Chile, I jumped with excitement and disbelief. Geographically speaking, my understanding of the area was similar to that of California: Long and skinny, sharing its entire western edge with the Pacific Ocean. It was easy for me to lump the two places in the same general category. However, a quick look at the atlas revealed that Chile is actually much closer to the size of Texas, and with a population density of only 56 people per square mile, it is a stark contrast to California's 217. So despite my generalization, it was probably safe to say that the most pristine areas of Chile are largely wild and still unspoiled.

I embarked on the journey excited and nervous. This would be my very first opportunity to practice what little I remembered from junior-high Spanish classes. As my redeye flight touched down, I became consumed with the surreal desertlike landscapes that lay below. Literally a geographic extravaganza, Chile has it all: from sub-Antarctic regions in the far south, to lush green rainforests, to a Mediterranean heartland and the unbelievably vast northern deserts, some of which are considered to be the driest places on earth.

My invitation came via e-mail from Patricio Rios, the director of Raid Atacama, Chile's largest organized 4x4 gathering. You could classify it as the South American equivalent of Moab's Easter Jeep Safari, only they call it a "raid" instead of a safari. Raid Atacama lasts a full week and covers several hundred miles of desert track around the base camp located in the city of Copiapo (population 125,983). Copiapo is a thriving mining community known as the gateway to the rarely visited high deserts to the east. With less than 23 millimeters of rainfall annually, I found it hard to believe that the community could sustain life in such a barren region. The only trees to speak of were planted by man, and the surrounding lunarlike landscape reminded me of images taken on the planet Mars.

  • Ruben Nass and son Otto imported this CJ-5 from the U.S. a few years back. The two built this rig in their spare time after work and school in their home garage in La Serena, Chile. It sports a small-block Chevy engine and Dana 44 axles. The wheelbase was stretched 3 feet from stock, which made this rig a top performer at the Raid. Chances are if you've had table grapes from Chile, they came from Rubin's agricultural empire.
    Ruben Nass and son Otto imported this CJ-5 from the U.S. a few years back. The two built t
  • Hoping to redeem a less-than-perfect mud performance, this Cherokee driver got some air on a nearby dirt bank. Naturally, the spectators applauded him for his efforts.
    Hoping to redeem a less-than-perfect mud performance, this Cherokee driver got some air on
  • Much to my surprise, Cummins-powered Dodge Ram pickups were the most popular fullsize vehicle in Chile. I inquired about this with some locals and was informed that significant tax incentives are available to business owners who purchase 3/4-ton-and-larger trucks. Dodge Rams are typically much less expensive than similarly equipped Ford and Chevy trucks in Chile, so naturally they are everywhere.
    Much to my surprise, Cummins-powered Dodge Ram pickups were the most popular fullsize vehi
  • Vladimir Ljubetic was one of the more experienced drivers at the Raid. We took a ride with him in this lightened '96 Isuzu Amigo. Powered by a high-revving four-cylinder turbodiesel, Vladimir's rig made even the largest of sand bowls look easy.
    Vladimir Ljubetic was one of the more experienced drivers at the Raid. We took a ride with
  • On the second night of the Raid, we camped out on one of the many beautiful beaches near Copiapo. On this particular evening, event organizers had a whole assortment of activities arranged for everyone. Event sponsors cooked dinner over open-fire grills and a large campfire was going as the sun started to set. As darkness fell, a spectacular fireworks show wowed the crowd.
    On the second night of the Raid, we camped out on one of the many beautiful beaches near C
  • This is the beach near the quiet town of Caldera, Chile. Our group stopped off here for lunch on Day 3 of the raid. Tourism is the main source of income in Caldera. The white sand beaches are known for calm, family-friendly waters, thanks to a natural isthmus that extends out into the Pacific, protecting the cove from currents. Some day I plan to return here for a vacation.
    This is the beach near the quiet town of Caldera, Chile. Our group stopped off here for lu

The single most important thing I learned from my week in Chile was the kind, welcoming nature of her people. From the very first day, I was accepted by everyone I encountered. Men, women, and children are easy-going and tolerant. The 4x4 scene wasn't at all what I expected. Chilean four-wheelers are typically the more affluent members of society. As such, most of them spoke English. This was great, as my lacking Spanish no longer plagued my confidence. Astronomers, business owners, mining engineers, and fruit exporters were just a few of the cultivated folks I was acquainted with right off the bat.

The Raid draws participants from all over Chile and even Argentina. Diesel is the primary fuel used for outback adventure; subsequently, I was salivating all week at the unique turbodiesel variants of vehicles available in the United States. Some 500 paid participants kicked off the event in fine Chilean style, dancing to popular music and drinking a potent grape derived brandy known as pisco.

Chile stretches some 2,700 miles along the southwestern coast of South America, a distance roughly the same as that from San Francisco to New York. At the same time, its width never exceeds 150 miles, making the country more than eighteen times longer than its widest point. Santiago is the capital and the largest city, with more than 5 million residents. Chilean culture follows American popular culture closely. Younger generations have grown accustom to all the modern conveniences of the First World. Cell phones, satellite television, and fast food are everywhere. Economic strength comes largely from copper excavation and produce exportation. Major trading partners include the U.S., Japan, China, South Korea, Netherlands, Brazil, Italy, Mexico, and Argentina.


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