Day three was the centerpiece of the trip, the slow and carefully timed approach to ascending Abra El Acay, with its 16,310-foot-high pass, along the legendary Ruta 40. Our drive was along a nearly 200-mile segment of this spectacular route in the Northwest Andean region- home to the amazing engineering feat, El Tren a las Nubes (The Train in the Clouds). Knowing that altitude sickness could come on quickly and cripple even the healthiest of travelers, Land Rover's staff slowed our pace to accommodate some degree of acclimation, visiting the towns of Molinos, Cachi, and La Poma,on our way up to the top of the Andes. Despite that, two members of our group were escorted ahead to Salta when they showed signs of distress at an altitude of merely 10,000 feet.
We now continued our journey eastward and skyward, traveling through landscapes with snow holes appearing and disappearing as the dirt track hugged and zigzagged the mountain's face. It was here that our diesel-powered vehicles showed their duality. Prized in many other markets throughout the world for their fuel economy, but not yet engineered to meet the stringent emissions requirements of the U.S., we appreciated the boulder-pulling torque of the LR3's 2.7L turbodiesel V-6 that carried us and our gear along our route with ease. However, not surprisingly, the LR3s needed to be motivated by a light-but-steady throttle foot and geared down fully for slow-speed travel in the high elevations, where the diesel's abilities are compromised by some 30 to 50 percent as a result of the lack of oxygen. This high-pressure "common rail" unit uses variable geometry turbocharging that produces 190 brake horsepower and 325 lb-ft of torque and now has new technical advances including its CGI(compacted graphite/iron) block, which is lighter, stiffer, and more durable than conventional cast iron.
Our stay at what felt like the top of the world was brief. Stepping out of our vehicles to lay claim to the "I've been here" photo with the Abra El Acay summit sign-16,000 feet above sea level-we were whipped by fierce winds and caught off-guard by the incredibly thin air, but captivated by the panoramic vista that opened up hundreds of miles to every direction. Quickly on our way again, we descended to the remote mining town of San Antonio de los Cobres, one of the highest points in the Argentinean plateau, located at an elevation of 12,500 feet, near the La Polvorilla Viaduct, a majestic rail bridge of the Train to the Clouds. We tucked into a local hostel, where those of our group that were well-oxygenated enjoyed another display of wonderful food, while a smallnumber of our members were relegated to stay prone, inhaling oxygen, provided by the medical staff.
Day Four found us now tacking in a southerly direction, driving along paved roadways, as well as traversing an offpavement stretch of trail for more technical four-wheeling, before settling in to an overnight at a modern-day hotel, in the bustling city of Salta.
Our final day in Argentina brought us back together again on the 18-seater for another three-hour flight to Buenos Aires, but this time we were a seasoned covey of adventurers, bonded by the places our Land Rover vehicles had taken us and trained in the manners of true backcountry driving.
Ruta 40
Outside of Argentina, few seem to know about legendary Ruta 40. The route was made famous by Ernesto "Che" Guevara's The Motorcycle Diaries, his youthful account of a year-long motorcycle journey down Latin America on a road that snakes more than 3,000 miles along the foot of the Andes, north to south. Ruta Nacional 40 begins at the northern border with Bolivia and continues all the way to Cabo Virgenes in the south, making it one of the longest roadways in the Americas, and one of the most scenically spectacular, as it travels from desertlike salt flats to snowy heights. If Ruta 40 is followed along its entire course, 13 lakes, 236 bridges, and 18 major waterways would be encountered, not to mention 20 national parks, protecting important archaeological sites, and natural geologic formations.
An enchanting 200-mile segment of Ruta 40 can be found in the Northwest Andean region-home to the amazing Tren a las Nubes (Train in the Clouds). Incredibly, this train zigzags 2.5 miles (13,716 feet) up the Andes. Hence, when it crosses the La Polvorilla viaduct (226 feet high and 882 feet long) at its highest point, it actually goes through misty, white clouds. And as travelers on Ruta 40 go through the Abra del Acay mountain pass, many find themselves slightly out of breath at 13,385 feet as well (our drive across the top of the pass was another 3,000 feet higher!). Undertaken by the administration of Hiplito Irigoyen as an economic engine to bring the remote region out of poverty and isolation, the public works project, engineering, and railway marvel employed thousands of workers in 1921.
Making this leg of Ruta 40 especially pleasurable are several welcoming cities, such as Salta, where the Train to the Clouds starts its journey up the mountains, until finally ending 100 miles away in San Antonio de los Cobres, one of the highest points in the Argentinian puna (plateau). Salta is also known for its picturesque colonial buildings, impressive Cathedral, numerous statutes, delicious empanadas, and its friendly town plaza. Other cities along the route include Quilmes, named for indigenous people who built it; Cafayate, celebrated for its highaltitude wines; and La Poma with its beautiful homes.
If You Go
Land Rover Experience: Land Rover offers events, such as the Road to the Clouds: Argentina Experience, for clients throughout the world, with adventures on many different continents. This brand also has three driving schools in North America. For further information, go to www.landrover. com, or visit a Land Rover dealer near you.