When the dust settled, this year's inaugural event in Latin America was distinct as a result of the exceptional enthusiasm of passionate fans-or the fierros, as they're called, in Argentina and Chile. There were also higher temperatures than expected, along with the higher altitudes of the snow-topped Andes. But, for the racers, the organizers, and members of the embedded press, such as I was, it was the same high-adrenaline, motorsports adventure as it has always been, and there were some of the best off-road tracks, water crossings, dunes, and endless miles of backcountry tracks to explore.
At the start of the rally, navigating south and eastward from Buenos Aires, we traveled across La Pampa, a region of Argentina with vast plains-some used for sunflower crops, others for grazing land for cattle, but punctuated by many open stretches that began to soothe our souls, after exiting BA's bustling megopolis. Day two found us following rolling tracks and passing through a narrow spine of mountains, with the small village of Sierra Grande tucked in a verdant valley. We spent the second night of the rally along the shores of the Atlantic, in the port city of Puerto Madryn. Day three brought our convoy of organization/presse and rally vehicles along tracks that led us to the entry of Patagonia, signaling a significant change in terrain, with majestic panoramas of mountains sprinkled with small snowfields, turquoise alpine lakes, and purple and white wildflowers waving in the breeze.
Heading westward, we came to an area known as the Argentinean rios, with long, sandy off-road tracks, the beginning of sand dunes, and an area with rock outcroppings, compared by some to the Grand Canyon. Moving on to Mendoza, the skyline was dominated by the snow-capped, glistening peaks of the Andes. The serpentine track that brought us to Chile, with a sliver of a view of the mighty Aconcagua, the highest peak in the Americas, led us to Valparaiso, a large and modern port city, tucked into the hills that cascade to the Pacific. It was here that we spent our single "rest day," in the middle of the 14-stage rally, collecting ourselves and our gear for the second half of the event.
Now, traveling northerly along the Pacific, we reached the famed Atacama Desert, the world's highest and driest desert, where racers would face a 1-kilometer-tall sand dune, along with hundreds of miles of soft sand and dune ridges. Here, on the edge of the copper mining Mecca of Copiapo, we spent two days camped in the dunes, with views that were reminiscent of African Dakars, as the Sahara desert has been a traditional part of Dakar's legend and lure. The Atacama dunes proved legendary, as well, as only motorcycles and 18 cars were able to complete the full stage in the treacherous dunes, leaving many stuck in sinking sands. As a result, race organizers shortened the course and cancelled the next day's stage, allowing all the rally teams to regroup.
Crossing the Andes a second time, on a more northerly track, we encountered scenery that was truly breathtaking-both visually and physically, as we motored across a pass from Chile back to Argentina that climbed to an elevation of more than 15,600 feet. Like many other places along our three-week-long journey, there were views that appeared just like other places we have been, other backcountry passes we have climbed, and other off-road tracks we have raced or simply driven for the pure joy of motoring in special places of the heart.
For those of us who love four-wheeling, it doesn't matter whether it looks like Mali, the Baja, or Death Valley in the U.S., we were a convoy of people who are passionate about vehicles, about off-road motorsports, and about the thrill of exploring new lands and seeing new vistas. We were blessed to have participated in the 31st annual Dakar Rally-in its 2009 edition, held far away from its ceremonial home, but with just the same love of the journey.
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