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Bodie Hills - Gold And Ghosts In The Bodie Hills

Posted in Events on March 1, 2009
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Bodie lies in a valley at 8,375 feet elevation and boasts temperatures of minus 40-degrees F in the winter. Today, winter access to Bodie is by snowmobile when the trail is safe. Imagine getting food, supplies and freight into this area by horse and mule. Despite hardships, lure of gold and jobs created a town of 10,000 people by 1880. Several routes lead into the Bodie Hills. Coming from Nevada, State Route 338 access is from the dirt road that leads to Hawthorne and Nevada Route 359. Rosaschi Ranch at the California-Nevada state line provides excellent catch-and-release trout fishing. Fly fishers and anglers can follow the East Walker River to the "Elbow," approximately 5 miles from Highway 338. A Nevada fishing license is required.

The California Gold Rush of 1849 brought a flood of prospectors to the Sierra Nevada foothills. Adventurous and searching for ever-bigger strikes, miners soon fanned east into the high desert country of Nevada and California. By the late 1850s, Gold Hill, Virginia City, and Silver City emerged as new bonanzas. Further south, following the forks of the Walker River and smaller creeks that flowed from the Sweetwater Range and Bodie Hills, prospectors chased gold and silver traces to their sources in hard rock veins.

Among the promising mining districts was Bodie, which grew from a fledgling camp in 1859 to a town of 10,000 people within two decades. Isolated at 8,375 feet in elevation, with 20-foot-high snow packs filling local canyons during minus 40-degree F winters, the area appeared an unlikely place for habitation. Rich veins of gold and silver, however, provided a lucrative incentive, quickly attracting every ilk of human being. In the 1881 words of the Rev. F.M. Warrington, Bodie was, "a sea of sin, lashed by the tempests of lust and passion." That lust led to $100 million in gold and silver production between 1861 and 1941.

Lust and passion also fed the wanton level of violence. The "Badman from Bodie" stories paralleled an endless string of murders. Masked gunmen robbed local Wells Fargo stagecoaches, street fighting was a regular sport, and rampant lawlessness ruled the early days of the boom. Hard work in the local mines, coupled with the isolation and solitary nature of prospecting, created an alcohol trade of 65 busy saloons and a long row of well-trafficked bordellos.

Bodie, like Virginia City, survived long enough to attract family life and a range of occupations, from hard rock miners and Chinese laborers to notable bankers, lawyers and merchants who built their reputations and bank accounts at Bodie. Bodie's normal social life included the Miner's Union Hall, which doubled for dances and holiday parties. Constructed in 1878, the hall represented Miners' Union Local 61 of the Western Federation of Miners. Officially organized on December 22, 1877, the local union was among the first in California. Pay ran as high as $4 per day for late 19th- and early 20th-Century union miners. By 1930, a Depression Era non-union miner earned $1 per day at Bodie.

Much like Virginia City, Bodie boasted innovative engineers who advanced technology. Bodie's Standard Company superintendent pioneered the first transmission of hydroelectric power in the world, inspired by a scarcity of local firewood for producing onsite steam power. The invention of cyanide gold extraction from tailings is also attributed to the Bodie Mining District. The process resulted from collaboration between Alex McCone and James S. Cain, owner of the Midnight Mine and, eventually, the Standard Company.

From Nevada, this road leads to Masonic, another mining site in the Bodie Hills. An 8-mile drive on dirt road leads to the remains. A dirt road leads from Masonic to Bodie. These roads open after the spring thaw. Check local road conditions before using these routes.

Home to the Rich and FamousLike other booming "camps" of the California Gold Rush and Nevada's Comstock Lode, Bodie attracted the colorful personages of the era. Well known regionally, Mark Twain wrote for the Territorial Enterprise at Virginia City. Few know that he also combed the hills near Aurora, Nevada, a Bodie neighbor, searching for that elusive gold strike.

The famous criminal and cause lawyer, Pat Reddy, was a local legend at Bodie. His clientele often included miners and others who lacked the financial leverage to confront 30 wealthy mine owners. On the other side of labor issues was Theodore Hoover, general manager of the Standard Consolidated Mining Company. After his stint at Bodie, Hoover, the brother of President Herbert Hoover, directed the Stanford University School of Mines. In similar fashion, Adolph Sutro became the Mayor of San Francisco after earning his mark as an engineer at Virginia City. These 19th-Century mining boomtowns, despite their extreme climates and roughness, attracted the world's best engineers, inventors and financial managers.

Masonic, California, looked promising. Rumored to be the next Bodie or Virginia City, Masonic's gold ran out quickly and forced closure of mining operations. A site plaque describes the local history. Remaining mines and structures have decayed. Approach them with caution.

Bodie had several banks, among them the Mono County Bank organized by Timothy Hopkins in 1877. Rivaling the mine-owned Bodie Bank, the Mono County Bank operated successfully for seven years before Hopkins moved on. Timothy Hopkins' father was Mark Hopkins of Central Pacific Railroad fame. These were times of stark individualism in America. From robber barons and capital financiers to prospectors, merchants, saloonkeepers, restaurateurs, ice house owners, blacksmiths, "ladies of the night," schoolteachers and hard rock miners - places like Bodie offered opportunity and, yes, chance fortune.

Late 19th-Century technology and enterprise created a blacksmith shop large enough to stable a hundred horses. A kiln operation at nearby Mono Lake produced charcoal for running the mines. The local icehouse froze pond water in the frigid, bone-chilling Bodie winters to supply the town with ice year round. Nearby ranches furnished beef and other foodstuffs. A local hospital emerged to meet residents' health needs. Hotels, saloons, clothing shops, mercantile stores and horse-and-mule freight companies flourished in this captive market. Today's closest comparison would be the prospect of a "boomtown" on the North Slope of Alaska.

In the nearby Nevada ranges, pine nut gathering is possible in the fall. The area has some creeks and cool spots to stop en route. Bring plenty of drinking water and sunscreen. Avoid dehydration and UV exposure in this high altitude desert. Flash flooding can occur in canyons during - and after - rainstorms.

Going to 'See the Elephant'By the late 1850s, hordes of California prospectors poured east over the Sierra Nevada in search of gold and silver. They came by horse, stage and foot. In the colorful parlance of the period, such a venture was to "see the elephant." Today's adventurers and visitors can reach the Bodie Hills and town of Bodie by several driving routes.

Bodie became an official National Historical Site and California State Historic Park in 1962. This gesture saved the remaining town. By the late 1950s, the abandoned site became a scavenging area for Southern Californians seeking abandoned cars, artifacts and even buildings. Unprotected, Bodie would not have survived.

The California State Parks system, in a wise move, elected to keep Bodie in a state of "arrested decay." Through careful restorative and preservation measures, the buildings have been kept in their original "ghost town" or abandoned state. Bodie's buildings and mine sites appear just as they did when the town's remnant of residents left after WWII. No building will be allowed to fall off its foundation - nor will any building be restored to appear as new.

Assay office and other buildings of the Standard were intact and in use until the eve of WWII. Bodie is a relatively "new" ghost town. A few hardy residents occupied homes into the early 1950s. In this region of California and Nevada, there are many families with strong roots at Bodie, Masonic, and Aurora. Mining is still underway in the Aurora district.

Bodie is readily accessible in summer and early fall from U.S. Highway 395. Seven miles south of Bridgeport, California, turn onto California Route 270. Travel 10 miles on paved road, then 3 miles of washboard gravel to the state park tollbooth. Admission is inexpensive (currently $3 per person). Other routes into Bodie include dirt road access from Nevada Route 338, Nevada Route 359 and the Masonic Road near Bridgeport Reservoir. Before traveling the area, secure a detailed local map. Always check local road conditions relating to U.S. Forest Service or B.L.M. routes.

In winter, Bodie is accessible only by snowmobile or snowshoes. Always check weather conditions before traveling the area. Snowdrifts cling to north slopes well into June and sometimes July. Drifts can be deceptive and deep, creating problems even for lifted four-wheel-drive vehicles. Route 270 is more predictable and usually opens by late spring.

Bodie State Historic Park offers drinking water and bathrooms, but no no fuel available - so fill your tank before visiting. For details, call the Bodie State Historical Park at (760) 647-6445 or visit the Bodie SHP website at

The Ghosts Of BodieArrested decay presents a genuine look at the past. How genuine? Visit Bodie, walk the streets in the late afternoon or evening light, and you decide. Whether ghosts "live" in town or not, Bodie is alive with imagery, memorabilia and an exciting glimpse of history. Go see for yourself.

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