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Nez Perce Trail: Part I

Posted in Events on January 3, 2012 Comment (0)
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When the Lewis and Clark expedition first set foot in the land of the Nee-Me-Poo, they were received peacefully (in English, the word Nee-Me-Poo means Nez Perce people). The year was 1805. The man who would become chief of the Nee-Me-Poo was 19-year-old Tuekakas. The Indians acted as guides and led the expedition to the Pacific Ocean using canoes. The expedition left their horses behind introducing the Indians to a new way of travel. Through many years of careful breeding, the Nez Perce developed the Appaloosa breed known for strength and intelligence; the animals were identified by the beauty of a spotted coat.

Fur traders first arrived in the land of the Nee-Me-Poo about 1834. They were followed in 1835 by missionaries who introduced Christianity. In that process, Tuekakas was baptized and named Joseph. He became known as Old Chief Joseph. A few years later, Joseph had a son who was baptized as Ephraim. He became known as Young Chief Joseph. The Nee-Me-Poo became known as the Nez Perce.

As the United States grew, the Washington Territory was established. The lands of the Nez Perce were divided by territorial boundaries. At first, the United States recognized the Nez Perce claim to parts of the territories and even signed a treaty in 1855 granting seven-million acres to call their own. That treaty lasted eight years.

The Nez Perce became divided into bands. Each band had a distinct designation and its own chief. Chief Joseph was among the most respected and most influential of all the chiefs, but he did not have the final word over all others. His band was called the Wallowa.

The gravestone for Old Chief Joseph stands alongside the highway south of Joseph, Oregon. The grave was moved to this location after it was broken into.

In 1863, all the Nez Perce Chiefs were called to a meeting held by representatives of the government. In that meeting, they were told to sell all but 700,000 acres of land in the original treaty to the government. That would decrease the size of their land by 90 percent. Chief Joseph refused and walked out of the meeting with four other chiefs. They considered the lands occupied by their bands to be excluded from further negotiations.

On the other hand, the U.S. government looked upon Nez Perce lands as being one piece of land occupied by many bands. In their view, getting one chief to sell the millions of acres of land occupied by the Nez Perce was as good as getting all of them to sell. For that reason, when the meeting ended, the government concluded they had just purchased 6.3 million acres of land from the Nez Perce People. That included lands occupied by Chief Joseph’s Wallowa band.

Old Chief Joseph died in 1871 and Young Chief Joseph assumed his role as leader of the Wallowa. In that same year, settlers began homesteading on land still claimed by the Nez Perce. Two of those settlers murdered an Indian, but were set free after a trial. Tempers flared causing the relationship between the Nez Perce and the settlers to deteriorate rapidly. It is hard to imagine the hatred each side had for the other as family members were attacked.

In the eyes of the government, Chief Joseph’s Wallowa Band was living on lands they no longer owned. In early May of 1877, the army delivered a message to Chief Joseph giving him 30 days to comply. He was not given a choice but rather an order to move onto the reservation designated in the meeting held fourteen years earlier. The meeting his father had walked away from.

Chief Joseph knew he could not defeat the army. On the other hand, living on a reservation was not acceptable. Without giving an answer to the army, he began assembling his people and their stock. His intent was to cross 1,170 miles in an effort to escape to Canada. With 800 people, including women and children, they herded 2,000 horses across the Snake River at Dug Bar. Their journey would take them across Idaho, Wyoming, and Montana.

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The route used by Chief Joseph and his band has been designated as a National Historic Trail. Much of it is on private land and other parts are not accessible in a vehicle; however it is possible to travel within view of many long miles of the original route. Our favorite part of the entire trail was the first part leading to the Dug Bar Crossing. Some of the reason for that selection was the fact that we had a guide, Dick Seymour, obtained through the Nez Perce Foundation. Dick is not Nez Perce, but has studied their history and runs a ranch raising Appaloosa horses. His stories about the past added color to every mile.

The route from Joseph to Dug Bar is very scenic. It passes through parts of the state where phones and public utilities still fail to reach. The road is paved to the town of Imnaha but turns to dirt and gravel beyond that point. The town receives its power by way of a high power line coming from a dam on the Snake River.

Beyond Imnaha, most of the road is one lane wide but with just enough room if passing another vehicle is necessary. On our trip, we only saw one other vehicle driven by a Nez Perce descendent. His name was Joe and he was on the job working for the fisheries on the Imnaha River.

The surface of the road is relatively smooth but we are told it can be treacherous when it’s wet. During our visit the terrain was dry and dusty. The most spectacular aspect of the trail is its lofty perch near the tops of the mountains. The Nez Perce found traveling high on the peaks was much easier than trying to negotiate the heavy brush in the valleys.

Big horn sheep roam the hills in small herds.

The route from Joseph to Dug Bar is only the beginning of the long journey in the Flight of the Nee-Me-Poo. During this part of the journey, most of their time was spent in rounding up their stock and preparing for the long ride. They had done nothing to alert the army of their intentions to bypass the reservation until they crossed at Dug Bar. The first of many battles occurred when the army attacked them at White Bird. Join us next month for part two of the Nez Perce Trail.

Navigation: GPS Positions
Latitude Longitude Comments
45 20.1919 117 13.3165 Old Chief Joseph Grave
45 20.5666 117 13.4340 Historic marker for the beginning of the flight


Trip Latitude Longitude Comments
0.0 45 33.5624 116 49.9921 In the town of Imnaha, turn left at Lower Imnaha Road.
12.9 45 41.722 116 47.1600 Left goes to Dug Bar
30.0 45 48.2478 116 41.2103 Dug Bar


More 411
Much of the information used in this story was obtained from a well-written guide book called Following the Nez Perce Trail by Cheryl Wilfong.

Maps and other information were provided to us by the Nez Perce Trail Foundation. You are invited to join the foundation. Your membership fees help to support improvements to the trail. Contact them at: Nez Perce Trail Foundation, 194 Hwy 28, Salmon, ID 83467, (208) 940-0053

Our guide to Dugbar was Dick Seymour. If you are in need of an Appaloosa horse, his are among the finest. For more information, go to www.seymourspotsappaloosas.com.

The final descent to Dug Bar is a narrow path clinging to the side of the hills.

The Xterra Pro-4X driven by Lone Writer is provided by Nissan. Tires are provided by BFGoodrich. GPS and Mapping software is provided by DeLorme. For more information, check out www.lone-writer.com.

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