Mud Building Basics
Plant the skinny pedal to the floor and make that rev limiter scream like there's no tomorrow! Never mind the gallons of fresh mud engulfing your rig, just keep working that wheel side to side until the muddy projectiles have reached their final destination and you have conquered yet another bottomless pit. For many of us this was the setting of our early 4x years as we mercilessly dropped our stock rigs into the biggest mud hole we could find, thus teaching us one of the most important wheeling lessons to date: Trucks don't float.
Compared to building a rockcrawler or a high-zoot trail rig, mud bogging is traditionally one of the most inexpensive facets that off-roading has to offer. For the average guy, an entry-level lift kit with an aggressive set of tires is usually enough to satisfy his terra cravings, and as long as you keep the maintenance up on your rig (grease people, grease!), you should have years of goo-slinging fun ahead. Although we've seen plenty of mud-stomping rigs throwing down more power than a stock car, we've found that even horsepower-challenged rigs can make the cut when matched with the proper gear and tire ratio. Though common sense is king when tackling the deep stuff, here are a few tips and tricks that we've learned along the way that will help your bogger battle the muddy reaper for as long as possible.
As a rule we like to keep our vehicle's center of gravity as low as possible, but when you're driving through 6-foot-deep mud holes it's easy to see why tall is good. In the suspension department your options are wide open, but for most big mudders, leaf springs seem to do the trick. And since articulation isn't as important, a beefy spring pack with a tall arch won't impede your rig like it would if you were in the rocks.