Stepping Up To Stage II - 2004 Toyota 4RunnerPosted in How To on October 1, 2011 Comment (0)
With the frontend of the 4Runner newly fortified, it was now time to turn attention rearward. A pair of Sway-A-Way bumpstops, Kartek bumpstop mounting cans, and Synergy Suspension strike pads had been patiently waiting since this upgrade’s inception.
In contrast to the ready-made Total Chaos shock hoops we’d used up front, the bumpstop mounts were somewhat uncharted territory. Even though the Kartek bumpstop cans and the Synergy strike pads are ready-made items, the final mounting system and mounting position of the bumpstops was going to require some custom work.
Why go to all the trouble? Hydraulic bumpstops offer progressive suspension control that stock-style rubber or urethane bumpstops can’t match. And, they act in tandem with your existing shocks, reducing the loads and the operating temperature that the shocks experience.
Anything else? Hydraulic bumpstops are like bypass shocks in the sense that they offer position-sensitive suspension control. Bypass shocks provide the ultimate in tunability, but they’re physically larger and they’re more expensive than hydraulic bumpstops. If there’s not enough room on the vehicle or in the budget, consider hydraulic bumpstops in place of bypass shocks.
Follow along to see how things fell into place.
We spent some time getting the bumpstop and strike plate into ideal positions before tacking them in place. The goal is to minimize lateral scrubbing between the bumpstop’s contact tip and the axle strike pad as much as possible. Considering all the different angles the axle will cycle and articulate, lateral scrubbing can’t be completely eliminated, so minimization is the goal. The bumpstop’s angle is roughly 90 degrees to the lower suspension links at full compression, and the strike pad is 90 degrees to the bumpstop’s body.
The markings show that lateral scrub is indeed minimal. This is what we were hoping for.