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Most of the salvage yards in urban areas operate a little differently than those in rural areas. The high price of land often forces urban salvage yards to dismantle trucks as soon as they hit the gate, while rural yards usually have more room to leave whole trucks laying around. That means you may have trouble locating smaller items in urban areas, such as the parking brake cable assembly for this full-floater.

Avoid buying engines that aren't complete, especially those that have been exposed to the elements. The heads were removed from this block long ago, and the large amount of debris in the cylinders means it's probably frozen solid. Even if a disassembled engine has been well-protected from the weather, make sure you know the engine well enough to spot missing parts, and plan on a total rebuild.

When searching for a used engine, look for signs that it has been rebuilt or messed with. The aftermarket valve covers sent up warning flags, and further inspection on this engine revealed a chrome oil pan and aftermarket carb. This is fine if you're looking for a modified engine, but there's no guarantee the engine builder knew what he was doing. It's best to look for engines that appear stock and original.

Three reasons why you shouldn't buy this engine are: (1) Missing accessory brackets. (2) The carb is gone and the holes in the manifold weren't plugged. (3) The large hole in the water pump indicates the engine may have overheated and then expired. Always look for clues that lead to why parts are in a salvage yard.

Interior items such as dashpads, seats, gauges, and steering columns are more expensive than you might expect. Steering columns are broken when a truck is stolen, dashpads crack and fade from sun damage, and seats wear out. It may be better to have your seat reupholstered or dash recovered than to buy a used one.

Late-model fuel-injected engines are often double or triple the price of an older carbureted engine. For instance, Truck Parts usually sells complete, carbureted Chevy 350s for around $300, but this late-model Ford V-8 can cost as much as $850. Also, many salvage yards don't pull the wiring harnesses and computers from trucks equipped with fuel-injected engines unless specifically asked to do so, making these engines unlikely retrofit candidates.

Using parts from a wrecked truck has its pros and cons. The trucks were most likely running and in reasonably good working order when they were hit, but some components may have been damaged from the impact. Since this Ranger was broadsided pretty hard, the engine is probably a good find. But the munched frame and bent wheel indicate the rearend suffered the brunt of the impact and should be avoided.

Most of the salvage yards in urban areas operate a little differently than those in rural areas. The high price of land often forces urban salvage yards to dismantle trucks as soon as they hit the gate, while rural yards usually have more room to leave whole trucks laying around. That means you may have trouble locating smaller items in urban areas, such as the parking brake cable assembly for this full-floater.

If you have the time and the patience, self-service salvage yards are a great way to find some screaming deals. Would you believe this full-floating 14-bolt was $89.95 at Pick Your Part, complete from drum to drum? The disadvantage of self-service yards is that they always rotate the vehicles in the yard and can't tell you what's there at any given time on the phone. You may spend several weeks or months finding the part you want at one of these places.

Steering boxes can sometimes be much cheaper to buy used than purchasing a rebuilt one. Inspect the input and output shafts for any drool that indicates a leak, and try turning the input shaft while holding the output to feel for excessive play. Also be aware that most two- and four-wheel-drive models use different steering boxes that aren't interchangeable.

Different tranny and transfer-case combinations can make it difficult to locate the correct used components for your application. When shopping for a tranny, it's a good idea to separate the two pieces and note the length, number of splines, and bolt pattern of the output shaft for the tranny, then compare these to the parts on your truck.

Can you tell if anything is missing from these TTB Ford frontends? Know as much as possible about the part you're looking for to avoid potential hassles with missing, worn-out, or damaged components.

Many salvage yards are good about labeling all the parts that come off a truck, which takes some of the guesswork out of searching for the right part. A reputable salvage yard is pretty accurate about the labeling and will take back a part that's been incorrectly labeled--ask if this is the case before you buy. Also note the tag on the tranny. Many yards keep a computerized inventory of what they have and can tell you over the phone if it has the part you need.

Transfer cases can be surprisingly pricey, especially those for late-model trucks. Shown here is a Chevy NP205 that mates to a TH350. Used T-cases such as this often go for around $300-$400, but that's still about half the price of a rebuilt unit. Also be aware that many of the same transfer cases were used under Chevy, Ford, and Dodge trucks but aren't interchangeable.

Body parts such as fenders, hoods, and grilles can vary widely in price depending on the truck. Also, the salvage yard may be reluctant to separate a good front clip and want to sell you the whole thing instead. Vintage fenders in good condition sell for around $150, and perfect grilles may bring as much as $300-$500 depending on the year, condition, and rarity. Reproduction fenders and hoods are often cheaper.

Avoid buying used electrical items such as alternators, starters, and relays. Most salvage yards offer no warranty on electrical parts, so you may be stuck with a dud, and there's no guarantee the yard will have another one. Besides, rebuilt alternators and starters are normally reasonably priced at a parts store, sometimes only a few dollars more than buying one used.