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October 2011 Nuts & Bolts

Posted in How To on October 1, 2011 Comment (0)
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1⁄2 Full or 3⁄4 Empty?
Q In almost every issue of 4-Wheel & Off-Road, it is stated that IFS is weaker, wears out quicker, and is less useful off-road overall versus a solid axle. Would it be feasible to take a Chevy 1500 4x4 and install the complete suspension from a 3500 4x4? The 3500 components are stronger, more durable, and made for a heavy-duty truck, whereas the 1500 is lightweight. Would the pros of the 3500 suspension overcome the worst of the 1500’s IFS cons? And even though it would still have IFS, would it be much better off-road?
Tyler S.
Holmen, WI

A Although your idea is good, the later-model IFS trucks are just not as easy to convert from 1⁄2-ton to 1-ton as you would hope. The mounting points are much different, and in the end you’ll be doing as much fabrication work as you would be if you were swapping in a solid front axle. Is it possible? Yes. Is it worth it? Not really. Yes, the 3500 IFS will be stronger than the 1500, but it will still be hindered by all the moving parts that can wear out and cause issues with the IFS. However, the 3500 parts usually have more gearing and locker options available and stronger aftermarket support, so I’d recommend starting with a 3500 truck rather than trying to swap the parts over.

We are currently exploring a heavy-duty IFS in our Ultimate Adventure F-150 buildup (see page 70), so stay tuned to see how that comes out. Developing a front independent suspension that will be strong enough (we hope!) for serious off-road use will be just as expensive (or more so), time consuming, and elaborate as swapping in a solid front axle.

Over the Canyon
Q I have an ’06 GMC Canyon 2WD Z85 and am in the process of lifting it more than the 2-inch lift coils and shackles I have on it currently. I will be getting the 5-inch CST spindles soon to bring the front up more, but how would I do the spring-over axle so I can gain those extra inches to level it out? I’d rather it not be leaning back like a lowrider. Where can I go to in Southern California to get this done?
Andrew
SoCal

A The look you are talking about is called the prerunner look, where the bed is low and the nose of the truck is high, reminiscent of some desert race trucks. For some reason a lot of the southwestern guys like this look. Oddly enough, most desert race trucks do not sit like that anymore. I’m not a huge fan, as it makes forward visibility harder, but the low bed makes it easier to load your cooler!

As for the rear spring-over conversion, you will need to relocate the spring perches, change the pinion angle, and attach longer shocks and longer brake lines. The spring-over is more likely to have spring wrap, as this configuration can increase the leverage against the springs. A simple online or Yellow Pages search will show you many 4x4 and off-road shops in Southern California depending on where you live exactly. Be sure to ask if they have ever done a spring-over conversion. It shouldn’t be too difficult, but will require some welding and new parts.

Low-Tech Tow
Q My newest project, besides one of my eight Jeeps, is to build a low-tech, old-school tow vehicle. One with no computer, no automatic transmission, no power windows, and the like. I purchased an ’84 Chevy 4x4 standard cab dualie from my old fire department. It has a 350 V-8, an SM465, an NP205, a Dana 60 front axle and 14-bolt rear with 4.56 gearing, and 30x16 tires. The only problem is that it has a top speed of about 58 mph, which makes it unsuitable for towing a Jeep to Moab.

I could have the axles regeared, but I really hate to, as the truck only has 9,000 miles on it and they are just broken in. Since I’m not fond of the nonsyncronized granny gear (but could live with it if necessary), I was thinking about a more modern five- or six-speed overdrive stick-shift tranny instead to gain the top speed I need.

What would be the easiest and/or cheapest tranny to swap in? Or is there some kind of overdrive unit to install between the gearbox and the transfer case?
Glen D. B.
Orlando Jeep Club

A Your truck sounds awesome! Simple, basic, and tough. I would have to agree that keeping the tow rig simple and reliable is a great goal. The tow rig doesn’t need to be a project truck. Little things like a camper shell, a leveling kit, and a light bar all make sense. But a huge lift, over-the-top engine upgrades, and giant rubber can make a tow rig into a large headache.

The truck needs higher gearing, and you have three choices. First is a Ranger overdrive between the engine and transmission from Advance Adapters (www.advanceadapters.com). These cost about $1,300 and put a 27 percent overdrive and additional shifter in front of your SM465. This swap will also require moving your transmission and transfer case rearward 71⁄2 inches and shortening and lengthening your driveshafts, which can be very expensive. The Ranger is a great option built to handle 420 lb-ft of torque and a GVWR of 25,000. It does, however, have some gear whine in overdrive, but I use one in my Dumpster M37 project with great results.

The second option is the infamous NV-4500 five-speed manual transmission. I have used a few of these and find them expensive, annoying to drive, and weak. I have seen many failures, though there is a supposed fix on the market to keep the overdrive gear from coming apart. Any manual gearbox that requires fancy $100 gear oil to fill it, on top of the $2,000-plus initial purchase price, doesn’t interest me. Again, you will need new driveshafts, which are more expensive than many people realize. I’ve been there. Although a lot of people like this transmission, I have only found it enjoyable behind the big Cummins diesel we put in the ’07 Ultimate Adventure Jeep we built because that engine has the power to pull through the odd gear jumps of the NV-4500.

Your third and best option is a simple gear swap and tire increase. If you were to go up to 4.10 gears with a 32- or 33-inch tire, I think you’d be pretty happy with the truck. If you want to keep the smaller rubber, jump up to a 3.73. The V-8 and granny First gear of the SM465 should have no issue getting a Jeep on a trailer up and moving, and then you won’t have to mess with new driveshafts and so on. You will have to change the carrier in the axle, as there is a carrier change at 4.10 to 4.56, but from the outside the rest of the truck will not change. I would guesstimate that the gears, carriers, bearing kits, and installation would be around $2,000 or less, depending on where you get it done and what grade parts you use. No driveshaft adjustments are needed, and you only need to upgrade to larger tires when your old ones wear out.

Devil Dodge
Q Me (19) and my friend (17) recently acquired a ’65 Dodge D100 3⁄4-ton and are planning on making it a tough 4x4. It has a lot more body rust than we in initially thought, but the frame is perfect. That’s why the truck is an asset to us, plus the price was an offer we couldn’t refuse: free! Our main concern is that the transfer case is done for, but the previous owner has a ’69 D100 3⁄4-ton 4x4 with a perfectly good transfer case (the rest of the truck is junk). Our truck has a slant-six (225, I believe), and the parts truck is a V-8 (318, motor is blown). Both transmissions are four-speed standards. Would the transfer case from the parts truck fit into our truck? If not, is it best to get a new or used transfer case?

We hope to have the truck in the bush by this summer. We are painting it flat black with flames in the General Lee orange. The truck’s name is Devil’s Queen. I will send pictures of her when done.
Ryley
British Columbia, Canada

A Your truck should have a divorced NP201 transfer case. A short driveshaft connects the transmission to the transfer case. The ’69 should have the newer NP205 transfer case, but it is also divorced. The swap should be very easy indeed. Your best bet would be to swap the entire crossmember with the transfer case on it from the ’69, as the mounts may be different. The crossmember may be riveted in place, so you may need to grind and drill the rivets out and then bolt it in place on the ’65. The shift linkage and driveshafts may need some adjustment also, depending on U-joint sizes.

I would be very curious as to why the NP201 failed. The slant-six isn’t the most powerful engine in the world, so I’m not sure why it would kill such a robust transfer case. You may just have linkage or driveshaft issues. Either way, the Devil’s Queen should be a very cool truck to go bashing in the bush with. Keep us posted as it comes together.

Nuts, I’m Confused
Better Inside Than Out
Q I have a ’97 Suburban K2500 with a 454ci big-block and a ’93 two-door Tahoe K1500 with a 350ci small-block. The Tahoe has lots of miles, but the motor, trans, and suspension are worn out. The Suburban is in awesome shape outside, but the interior is messed up. I wanted to know if all the suspension can be swapped to the K1500 along with the motor and trans. Do I also have to swap out the torsion bars to carry the load of the 454? And the rear leaf springs? Do I have put on traction bars due to the extra power? Also, would I have to get driveshafts made or will the ones from the K1500 fit? I know I’m going to have fun swapping wiring and the dashboard along with its mounting brackets, and the steering column, but is there an easier way to go about this?
Billy Bob

A Before you start swapping the drivetrain I suggest you look at LMC Truck (800.562.8782, www.lmctruck.com), a company that has everything for the interior of your ’97. I would not waste time swapping that stuff to the Tahoe. The ’Burban is bigger, has better parts under it, and a 3⁄4-ton frame and suspension. Sell the Tahoe, fix up the Suburban, and enjoy the larger truck. You may be able to scrounge some interior parts from the Tahoe, such as a seat, to better outfit the ’Burb, but I do not believe the 3⁄4-ton front suspension parts will easily adapt to the 1⁄2-ton Tahoe.

You brought up a question that a lot of readers come across, so I’m going to award you this month’s Nuts, I’m Confused prize, a gift certificate from LMC Truck. LMC offers a huge inventory of parts for most domestic trucks and 4x4s through its catalogs and website and can help in fixing up whatever you have in your driveway. The idea of swapping powertrain and suspension is often a larger project than simply upgrading the interior of the running driving vehicle, especially if it is a larger capacity such as a 3⁄4-ton. Whatever direction you go, LMC can help supply replacement components.

Submission Information
Confused? Email your questions about trucks, 4x4s, and off-roading tech using “Nuts, I’m confused” as the subject and include a picture (if it’s applicable). Digital photos must measure no less than 1600 x 1200 pixels (or two megapixels) and be saved as a TIFF, an EPS, or a maximum-quality JPEG file. Also, I’ll be checking the forums on our website (www.4wheeloffroad.com), and if I see a question that I think more of you might want to have answered, I’ll print that as well. Otherwise drop it old-school style with the envelope addressed to the address below. Letters published in this magazine reflect the opinions of the writers, and we reserve the right to edit letters for clarity, brevity, or other purposes. Write to: Nuts & Bolts, 4-Wheel & Off-Road, 831 S. Douglas St., El Segundo, CA 90245 fax to: 310.531.9368 Email to: nuts@4wheeloffroad.com

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