Sammy Swap, Mileage Woes, and More!
I have a '78 Ford F-250 4x4 with a 400M engine and a C6 tranny. It has all the trick stuff like a Dana 60 rear, power steering, and a Dana 44 front. I want to swap in a Ford 460 but don't know much about the details. Do I need different motor mounts or a different oil pan, or will the 460 bolt right in?
This engine swap has become very popular over the years and is relatively simple if you have the information and the correct swap parts. L&L Products (Dept. 4WOR, 3210 Century Dr., Rowlett, TX 75088, 972/475-5202) specializes in these conversions and has developed a complete line of parts and accessories to make the swap easier. The motor mounts are the critical items-must-haves to do the job right. The L&L units bolt to the factory frame brackets for a properly placed engine and feature a lifetime guarantee.
L&L carries other parts, such as special headers that clear the framerails (rather than the stock exhaust that won't) and a special rear-sump oil pan to clear the axle. Other helpful pieces are the alternator and power steering brackets, also available from L&L, which will clear the crossmember that the stock 460-style brackets hit. For swaps such as this, it's always a good bet to go with a specialist in the field for the best info, and engineered parts for the cleanest swap possible.
My '86 Suzuki Samurai has gone through three engines so I'm considering an economical engine swap. My choices are a straight-six or a V-6 of some type, but I'm not sure what problems I'll encounter. The transmission and transfer case are coupled by a driveshaft so I figure that with a little bit of ingenuity I can fit something in. Do you know anyone who has done this or has any information?
The diminutive Samurai is a great 4x4 but lacks a little in the power department, and since yours has burned up three engines, another powerplant is in order. Most straight-six engines are going to be way too long to fit into the Suzi's engine bay, but we've seen a number of clean V-6 swaps that work extremely well. The strength of the rest of the powertrain is questionable with V-6 power, and the extra weight up front will lead to an unbalanced vehicle.
The hot ticket for Sammy swaps seems to be the larger G16 eight-valve Suzuki engine from an '89-'94 Sidekick or Geo Tracker. Steve Kramer at Calmini Manufacturing (Dept. 4WOR, 6600-B McDivitt Dr., Bakersfield, CA 93313, 800/345-3305) offers a bolt-in kit for these popular engines for a mere 250 smackers (at press time). Although the horsepower increase is only around 25, that's a big difference you can really feel in a lightweight 4x4.
According to Kramer, your original G13 (1324cc) engine shares the same configuration with the larger G16 (1598cc) engine which has a longer stroke. The kit comes with an adapter plate to bolt the engine to the stock Samurai housing, using the original flywheel and clutch from the Sammy. While the top two bolts of the bellhousing need to be drilled out a little bit, it's still a virtual bolt-in kit that doesn't involve welding-which isn't the case with Samurai engine swaps. Even the motor mounts are easy to modify, with a new mount supplied for the right side and a spacer for the left. Because the new engine is a fuel-injected design, the block doesn't have a place for a mechanical pump so a new electric fuel pump is included. Your old intake and carb bolt right on to the new block.
Calmini is currently working on using the later 16-valve injected engine, but the hood will need to be modified to clear the extra parts, which is the same as if you used the early-style injection on the G16 engine. Other plans include a heavier flywheel for the conversion and other engine mods. If you're planning to lift your Suzi or make any other additions, Calmini offers an assortment of Samurai goodies.
The tie rod ends on my '87 Toyota pickup seem to be at a steeper pitch since I installed a 4-inch lift kit, even with new control arms. Is this going to be no problem or should I get new or different ends?
Surrey, British Columbia, Canada
When an independent front suspension vehicle is lifted, the steering links will generally point up toward the centerlink from the steering knuckles. In most cases, the angle isn't so great as to present a problem, especially since the amount of downtravel is fairly small after a lift. Most well-designed lift kits stay within the bounds of generally accepted safe engineering practices, but we've seen angles so bad that the tires wobble back and forth (shimmy) because the steering links don't have a direct stabilizing force. If this is the case with your Toy, something needs to be done to correct it, such as lowering the steering arrangement. Superlift (Dept. 4WOR, 211 Horne Ln., West Monroe, LA 71292, 318/322-3458) offers a Superunner kit for GM products with IFS, which is a great improvement. But as far as we know, nothing is available for Toyota trucks. Look at the Superlift design and see if you can fabricate a similar system for your Toy, if it's necessary. Be sure any steering changes are done in a safe and sane manner.