Take a Brake BreakI have a '47 CJ-2A that's pretty much all stock. (Yes, I have the oddball Dana 41.) I have tried and tried to get my rear drums off to replace the shoes. I made a plate with the lug-nut pattern and attached a gear-puller; while cranking on that, a second friend was heating the drum up with a hand torch and a third buddy was hitting the outside of the drum with a sledge about every quarter turn. I figured that should have done it, but nope, we made about a 11/44-inch of progress. I need help or a reasonable solution.Andy TrankEugene, Oregon
You don't need to remove the hub to pull the brake drums on a two-piece-shaft Dana 23, Dana 41, or Dana 44. Take a wire brush to the drum along the wheel mounting surface between the lug studs. You should find three screws that hold it to the hub. They're often boogered and beyond hope, so you may need to drill off the screw heads with a large drill bit. Once these are removed, all it should take is a solid whack at a 45-degree angle at the reinforcement nubs (along the outside diameter of the drum) to dislodge the drum from the shoes. If it's really stubborn, use a flathead screwdriver or brake tool to back off the adjuster wheel and pull the shoes away from the brake surface.
If for some reason you need to remove the hub, remove the hub cap, cotter pin, and axle nut and spray penetrating lube like JB-80 or PB Blaster on the hub/shaft area and let it soak for a few days. After that, use a three-jaw hub puller. However, you shouldn't need this for a simple brake job.
Vapor LockerMy '88 Jeep with a 4.2L carbureted with a newly rebuilt Carter carburetor has issues after 2-3 hours of four-wheeling; it just quits running. The feeling is that the engine isn't getting any gas. Most often, the engine will restart when the key is turned to the start position, and sometimes it won't start right away. I usually need to turn the engine over for 10 or more seconds before it will start. After driving for various times, the engine will quit again.
All fuel-related items have been replaced-fuel lines, fuel filter, gas cap, fuel pump, and carburetor. Is it possible the gas is vaporizing in the fuel filter that is located right above the intake/exhaust manifold? I drove the Jeep recently for about 20 minutes, turned off the engine, and then felt the metal fuel filter. It was pretty hot. My thinking is that after four-wheeling for a couple of hours-with higher rpm and slower speeds-the gas is vaporizing in the fuel filter.Kit WilsonVia e-mail
It sure sounds like vaporlock to me. The gas boils and turns to vapor, interrupting the flow of fuel to the carburetor and starving the manual pump. The Jeep will quit and then run fine after it cools down a bit. Sometimes a bit more fuel pressure can also help.
First, replace the metal filter with a clear plastic filter. They're about $4 at most auto parts stores. The plastic won't retain as much heat as the metal filter, and it'll allow you to actually see what's going on if the problem persists.
Second, if the plastic doesn't work, reroute the fuel line so that it's in a cooler spot away from the majority of engine heat. You could also rig up a rudimentary fuel cooler out of a coil of steel fuel line mounted somewhere in the path of cold air (colder than underhood temps). Just take a length of hard fuel line available at any auto parts store and carefully wrap it around a can of spray paint or other cylindrical object to get the shape. Either that, or check Summit Racing (www.summitracing.com) for aftermarket fuel coolers.
Third, if the problem is still there, I'd suggest plumbing an inline electric fuel pump and pressure regulator between your fuel tank and manual pump. This used to be an old-school trick to cure vaporlock problems on older '50s cars with poor line routing. Run the adjustable regulator after the electric pump but before the manual pump and set the fuel pressure to around 5-6 psi to keep your carb happy.
5 For the 6I'm doing an engine swap on my '93 Wrangler-it had a four-cylinder-and I'm rebuilding a 4.3L Chevy. I've been told my AX5 transmission won't handle the power difference. If it won't, will an AX-15 bolt to my transfer case without an adapter?Brian BelgardeVernon Center, Minnesota
The AX-5 has a 21-spline output shaft, and the AX-15 has a 23-spline output shaft. It's really no biggie. You just need to swap the input gear in the NP231. If you can't find one in a junkyard behind a six-cylinder YJ, TJ, XJ, or MJ, you can buy one new at Advance Adapters (800/350-2223, www.advanceadapters.com). Otherwise, the T-case will bolt right to the back of the bigger tranny.
Tight PackagingI have an '05 Jeep Wrangler Sport. I know the Mag-Hytec diff cover will fit in the rear, but is there enough room for it on the front diff? It looks too big.Enrico CafieroVia e-mail
Mag-Hytec doesn't have a Dana 30 application, which is what your front axle is. To my knowledge, the company only has the Dana 44 cover for the Jeep. Regardless, the steering linkage will be in the way, so it won't fit.
Got a tech question you're just itching to get answered? Send it on in to Jp Magazine, Your Jeep, 6420 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90048, or e-mail firstname.lastname@example.org.