Dodge Dana 44 Swap?
I’ve been reading your magazine for a long time now and a lot of the articles have got me thinking about how to make my ’01 TJ just a bit better off-road. I’m currently running a stock open Dana 30 in the front and a Dana-turdyfive with a Truetrac in the back. For years it has served me well, but I am concerned about going to 33-inch tires. I have a chance to get a set of Dana 44s from a Dodge pickup and am wondering if this is a good choice or not. Yeah, I know, they would need to be shortened and have all new mounting tabs welded on. Are there other problems that I might run into? Any help would be appreciated. Do you make garage calls?
We can tell that you read Jp, and we think you are right that running 33-inch tires on a Dana 35 is a liability for you and your Jeep on any off-road trail. An upgrade is a great idea, but unfortunately it’s never quite as easy as swapping in those spare axles you or your pal may have laying around. The axles you have access to may be decent candidates for a swap, but I am not sure because you didn’t tell us what year and model Dodge truck the axles came out of.
For starters, Dodge pickups didn’t use Dana 44s front and rear. Most 1⁄2-ton pickups from the ’70s-’00s will have a Dana 44 front and Chrysler 91⁄4 rear. The Chrysler 91⁄4 is a good, durable axle with 31-spline, 1.30-inch axleshafts and a ring gear that’s arguably stronger than a Dana 44. Some older Dodge 1⁄2-ton trucks from the ’70s could be equipped with a Chrysler 83⁄4 rear axle with a drop-out centersection much like a Ford 9-inch. The ’73-’79 Dodge Dana 44s will have a less-than-desirable semi-floating Unitbearing design, 5-on-41⁄2 bolt pattern, and a passenger-side-drop diff. The ’80-’84 units are the best, with locking hubs, 5-on-51⁄2 bolt pattern, passenger-side-drop diff, and a solid driver-side axleshaft. The ’85-’93 axles are the same as the ’80-’84 versions, but with a two-piece CAD (central axle disconnect) shaft in the long-side tube. Finally, the ’94-’01 Ram trucks have a semi-floating Unitbearing design that’s better than the ’70s models, 5-on-51⁄2 pattern, and a driver-side-drop diff that matches the T-case output on your TJ. The late-model axles are a CAD design as well, but it’s not that bad.
When contemplating swapping a front axle you have to think about what side of the vehicle the differential is on. Your TJ requires you to run a driver-side-drop axle. If your donors are the pre ’94 versions, you’ll have to re-tube the axle centersection to get a driver-drop differential. Alternatively, you could get a different passenger-drop T-case and re-route your exhaust. Those are both expensive possibilities that we would not recommend unless this kind of fabrication is old hat to you.
In any case, any axle (other than a Dana 44 from another TJ) is gonna require all kinds of cutting, fabbing, and welding of new brackets. Also, narrowing a rear axle requires special jigs and tools and that means a custom axle shop is going be necessary if you want to narrow your replacement rear axle. If you really want to build junkyard Dana 44s for your TJ, check out our story “Used Dana 44 Axles for Jeeps - Junkyard Built, Part 1 and Part 2,” (May and June, ’07). The axles we used did not require any shortening, but that’s not to say it was a direct swap. There was quite a bit of fab involved.
AMC 20 Haters
I have an ’85 CJ-7 into which I have swapped a 4.3L Chevy Vortec V-6 and a TH700R4 transmission. I currently have an AMC Model 20 with Moser one-piece axles and 4 inches of lift. I plan to add lockers but after reading y’all’s opinion of the Model 20 in the Sept. ’12 issue I was considering swapping in a Ford 9-inch. Which leads me to my question, will the low-pinion Ford change my driveshaft angle much? I currently have a 25-inch Tom Woods CV driveshaft. I have had no problems to date with vibration. I have access to a big-bearing 9-inch out of a ’65 pickup, but sometimes a free part is not necessarily the best solution, but if the drive shaft angle won’t be an issue I think I could build a stout rearend based on this unit. What do you think? Any other ideas?
Well, one thing for sure is that a Ford 9-inch is infinitely upgradable and has a huge aftermarket backing. It’s also a relatively lightweight axle, but all 9-inches are not built the same. Make sure yours is worth using before spending much time or money on it. Most 2WD pickups are 28-spline unless they’re camper specials. The 4x4s and some Broncos got 31-spline shafts. Vans could be either, but most are 28-spline and the vans are about 3 inches wider, so make sure your “free axle” doesn’t have one of these issues. Also, the 9-inch you have at your hands may be quite a bit wider than the Model 20, check the wheel mounting surface width first. A wide rear axle looks odd and can make tight turns off-road a little more difficult. You also didn’t tell us what tires you are or will be running. Tire size makes a difference. A Model 20 might be okay with 33s and a locker. A Ford 9-inch, properly upgraded, can live with 40-inch tires and a locker.
Now, back to your driveshaft, because your shaft is 25 inches long and you are already running a double-cardan shaft, I think you will be okay as long as you don’t up the lift amount much. You may need to have the driveshaft shortened, but then again a Model 20 pinion is pretty long and as we know the Ford 9-inch pinion will be at least a little lower than the AMC. If necessary, I am sure Tom Wood’s Custom Drive Shafts will be happy to shorten the shaft for a fee. If you have an issue with maxing out the double-cardan joint, it will be at full droop. If this happens you can rig up one center limiting strap to keep the joint from binding. As for other options, if you only plan on running 33s or 35s you might be able to get away with using a Dana 44 rear axle. If you want tires bigger than that or if you have a really heavy right foot, then you should probably look into a Dana 60 or a built-and-narrowed Ford 9-inch.
I have a ’90 YJ with a 2.5L and an AX5 transmission. I am currently trying to convert it with a direct bolt-on, non-electronically controlled transmission. I’m not sure which tranny to use. Is it the TF999, the TF904, or the AW4 or none of these? I am currently doing a spring-over and figured why not tackle a transmission swap too! Any advice? I’m baffled.
Arizona City, Arizona
We’ll generalize a bit here and kinda lump ’em together for the sake of brevity, but the TF904 is a three-speed auto with a non-lockup converter. The TF909 is essentially a TF904 with lockup converter and the 30RH is an electronically controlled TF909. These are light duty and were mostly used behind four-bangers. The TF999 may or may not have a lockup converter and were mostly used behind six-cylinders and some V-8s. The 32RH is a TF999 with lockup converter and is electronically controlled via the ECM (kinda like the difference between a TH700R4 and 4L60E). Which to use? We’d go with the TF999 with or without a lockup converter.
Pow, Excuse Me!
I have a ’78 CJ-7 with an AMC 360ci, factory TH400 auto, and Edelbrock 600 cfm carburetor and intake. It has headers and dual exhaust with Cherry Bomb mufflers. The passenger-side exhaust will backfire when going down hills. I really replaced everything, wires, plugs, ignition box, even the whole distributor. I’ve checked the timing and for vacuum leaks, but nothing seems wrong. I’ve seen someone else with this same problem. What gives?
So the Jeep backfires going downhill? Cool! Probably what happens is the engine runs rich for a second or two after you pull your foot off the throttle. This causes fuel to exit the engine into the hot exhaust and pow. Not sure you can do anything to prevent it. I’d enjoy it. I guess you could put some quieter mufflers on it. Then even if there is a backfire it won’t be so loud.
I have a ’10 Jeep Patriot 4X4, for the ’11 model year Jeep increased the ride height by 1-inch. I would like to get that 1-inch on my ’10. The rear struts were damaged in an accident and have to be replaced. I can’t get an answer if there is a difference in the struts that increases ride height. How did they do it? Yes, my other Vehicle is real Jeep.
Wow. This is my first Patriot question. It’s special. Honestly, I have no idea. While researching this I found a 21⁄8-inch lift kit for Jeep Patriots and Jeep Compass sold by Rocky Road Outfitters (rocky-road.com). That’s cool and apparently Mopar has played with this lift kit on one of their Mopar Underground Rigs. Back to your question, you may have to guinea pig yourself and figure out if the struts are different and provide any lift. I did search for part numbers and found a few struts available for ’10 Patriots, but I did not find any struts for ’11 Patriots. That could be because the parts are different and the ’11 struts won’t fit the ’10s, or because no one has worn out the struts on a ’11 yet so nobody knows if the struts already available will work for the ’11s. If you want to dig a little deeper, you could go to your local dealer and sweet talk the parts guy into getting, for example, one front strut for a ’10 and one front strut for a ’11 and visually compare them. Good luck, man, and let us know what you find. If he won’t do this he might at least check to see if they are different part numbers.
Jp Marriage Counselor
Oh boy! Here goes; I have two Jeeps and a fine start considering I am just 11⁄2 years in to this wonderful hobby. I have a cool, totally stock, restored M-715. I did all the work myself. I also have a ’93 YJ. The YJ has a few modifications including Dana 44s, military-wrap springs, custom steering, a spring-over suspension, and lots of other cool stuff that I saw in your magazine. Now that I am in this deep with two nice Jeeps I want a trail rig bad. Is it at all possible to trade in the wife in on a good rig? Surely, out there somewhere someone has a rig and no wife. I have a good woman. Let’s make a deal before she dumps me over these toys and I have no woman and no trail rig. Thanks for the fun so far! Love the magazine! By the way, I love my Jeeps, and yes, I do love the wife too.
Wow. Beep beep beep. Back up there a second pal. Women are important too, and there are things that they can do that even your Jeeps can’t (thank god). A good woman is hard to find, and while it’s totally legal to go out and buy a beautiful red headed Jeep (if you can afford it), going out to buy any woman is at the least legally grey. Well, perhaps not in Nevada. Also I would imagine (and hope) that consummating your relationship with a Jeep is illegal…plus where would you put your…never mind.
If I were you I’d try to get the old lady hooked on Jeeps, too. Then you can have an excuse to buy other Jeeps and cool Jeep parts under the guise of her needing one that’s all built-up too! Seriously though, if you are missing house payments because your Jeep needs new wheels because last year’s wheels are just too out of style, or your retirement investments included taking a second mortgage to buy that old one-of-a-kind, rusted-to-hell, Jeepster, then you may have a problem and the wife and even the staff at Jp will tell you to step back and examine your priorities. If you can afford your new addiction, then anyone who truly loves you will support you in your interests. Wow, that’s mushy. How ’bout that football game?
My question is on tire pressure. I have read a lot of your articles, and I am a little fuzzy on what tire pressure to run my tires at on the street. Just to give you an idea of the weight, I have an ’05 LJ with a hardtop, rock sliders, engine skidplate, BellyUp skidplate and gas tank skidplates (all steel), front and rear aftermarket bumpers, and stock drivetrain. I am going to some 35x12.50/17 Super Swamper LTBs. These are bias-ply tires. I don’t do a lot of driving on the street except to get to the trail. I only put about 2,500 miles a year on between the street and the trails. I am just looking for a good baseline on road pressure to start with. I think I have read where you guys only run 25 psi on the street? And should I even attempt to balance the darn things? Thanks for the help!
Wheat Ridge, CO
(Editor Hazel replies)
I’d balance the tires. Bias-ply Swampers aren’t built very true, and you’ll probably get some gnarly vibrations without any wheel weights.
As for pressure, that depends on the tire size, tire load rating, and vehicle weight. Best thing to do is start at about 30-35 psi and draw a chalk line across the tire tread of each tire. Drive across a parking lot or straight road and take note of where the chalk is worn off. You want to keep dropping the pressure by about 3-4 psi until the chalk is evenly scuffed or worn off the tire tread. Then write down the pressure so you don’t forget. The idea is to find the best pressure for your vehicle that puts the maximum amount of tread surface in contact with the street at the highest pressure possible.?>
Too much pressure and the tire will crown and only ride on the center tread blocks, wearing the center prematurely. Too little and the tire will ride on the outer tread blocks, wearing the outers prematurely. You want a nice, even wear pattern.
For me, my pressures are all over the board. I run about 25 psi on Jp’s JK with 35x12.50R17 tires, about 28 psi on my FSJ with 33x12.50R15 tires, and a full 32 psi on my super-light YJ with 31x10.50R15 all terrains. My 3,000 lb flattie only needs 14-15 psi in the 35x13.50R15 BFG Krawlers for the right contact patch. It just depends on the setup.
I have an ’00 Jeep XJ with a stock suspension and 16-inch wheels. Can I run 225/75R16 tires without any clearance issues? Thanks for any info.
Bob, if you want to keep your Jeep stock, not get into trimming your fenders, and still actually use your Jeep off-road, a 29-inch tire like a 225/75R16 is gonna be about the biggest tire you can run without a lift kit. Having said that, trimming XJ fenders is fairly easy and really should be done even on lifted XJs to maximize uptravel. It is possible to squeeze in a set of 31-inch tires if you properly trim the fenders and add bumpstops to your Jeep. Also, budget boosts, available from several lift kit manufacturers, are a pretty cheap and easy install on an XJ to get an inch or two more clearance. You can check out “Shoe Horn XJ,” (March and April ’10), not so much for the lift kit install, but more for a good way to trim XJ fenders without causing damage or uglying up your XJ too much. Don’t just cut out the pinch welds over the rear tire. These are integral in the structure of your Jeep and are important.
Got a tech question you’re just itching to get answered? Send it on in to Jp magazine, Your Jeep, 831 S. Douglas St., El Segundo, CA 90245, or e-mail it to email@example.com.