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2000 Gmc Z71 Rollcage Bed Weld Ultimate Z71 - c Channel Frame - Photo 10339777

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  • The rear portion of the GMC 1/2-ton's C-channel frame was a little on the thin side, and with the type of abuse we have in store, we needed to give it some extra beef. Using cardboard templates we cut and welded 3/16-inch steel frame inserts to box in the rear portion of the frame to gain more strength and rigidity.
The rear portion of the GMC 1/2-ton's C-channel frame was a little on the thin side, and with the type of abuse we have in store, we needed to give it some extra beef. Using cardboard templates we cut and welded 3/16-inch steel frame inserts to box in the rear portion of the frame to gain more strength and rigidity.
A rollcage is always a great safety addition no matter what type of wheeling you do. We wanted to keep as much interior room as possible in our '00 GMC extended cab, so we gutted everything from the headliner down to tuck as much of the 0.120-wall, 13/4-inch DOM tubing out of the way. Creating a precision fit is no simple task. To get the bends right, Mel Wade from Off Road Evolution created a tube template that allowed him to adjust the bars to the right length and sweep. Then using it as a guide, he built each section accordingly. Though we still need to add our tubing gussets, the interior portion of our cage is practically complete. Be sure to keep your eyes peeled for a future issue, when we tie in the interior cage to the frame and bed for added support and to prevent as much bed flex as possible. Bobbing your truck's bed from either end is a relatively time-extensive project and requires a bit of sheetmetal know-how and patience. Before we made the first cut on our shortbed, we created a cross brace to prevent it from warping. Whether you're using a cut-off wheel, plasma cutter, or run-of-the-mill Sawzall, you'll need a steady hand to ensure that the bed lines are cut perfectly straight. You may find it helpful to tack on a guide to keep your cutting instrument on the right path. Sheetmetal clamps allow us to begin the delicate process of welding the bed back together. We found it best to spot-weld the bed in sections, constantly checking alignment and making certain the panels remained even and straight.
It definitely requires a double-take at first glance, but that massive 12-inch section was keeping us from achieving our goal of a 135-inch wheelbase while doing our best to keep the truck appearing stock. And don't worry, we've got a few tricks up our sleeves to deal with that massive lower overhang in the rear. The rear portion of the GMC 1/2-ton's C-channel frame was a little on the thin side, and with the type of abuse we have in store, we needed to give it some extra beef. Using cardboard templates we cut and welded 3/16-inch steel frame inserts to box in the rear portion of the frame to gain more strength and rigidity. With bed mounts marked and a little over a foot chopped off the rear of the frame, we started in on the new bed attachment points. Using a holesaw we made openings in the side of the frame to feed the bolts up through the opening for the bed, since the bolts run up into the bed versus drop down from the top. Using a Hobart AirForce 625 plasma cutter we said goodbye to the original perches and ditched the massive and heavy 14-bolt drum brakes. Why a 14-bolt? Strength, availability, and price-even after all these years it's possibly one of the best bang-for-your-buck axles. If you can tighten a bolt you can put on Off Road Design's rear disc-brake conversion. Using calipers and rotors from a '73-'87 3/4-ton GM, we were able to not only lighten up our 14-bolt, but improve stopping off road. The discs are self cleaning so we won't have to worry about mud-packed drums ever again. Our 14-bolt came right out of the yard with a factory Detroit Locker. Designed to set in the carrier as opposed to a complete carrier replacement, it should have no problem turning our 30-spline full-float shafts. Setting up our Superior 5.13 gears was a breeze as the 14-bolt uses pinion shims that are easily swapped out by unbolting the four-bolt yoke. Though the housing is quite large, there are ways to clearance the bottom. Be sure to check out next month's issue where we'll show you how.
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