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Jeep YJ Body Lift - Rust Welded

Posted in How To: Body Chassis on December 18, 2006
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To some of our readers, this article will serve to scare them from moving where there is snow or road salt. To some, it'll really help with getting that next rusted-out body bolt apart. And to others, they'll just laugh because it took me almost 40 hours to install a body lift.

I take a lot of flak around here because I'm from the Northeast. When I drill a hole, I paint it. If I cut into the body, I paint the edge of the cut when I'm done. I antiseize bolts I want to come out and don't worry all that much about ones I don't want to come out. Odds are, they are rusted in.

So when I told Cappa that I'm looking to do a body lift on my YJ because my body mounts are shot, he didn't quite get it. To anyone from the Southwest, a body lift is maybe a half-day procedure. When I explained to him my Jeep had about 300,000 miles of Northeast rust belt driving on it, he still didn't get it. Then I told him it was probably a three-day procedure to do the body lift, and the bet was on.

I went with the quickest, cheapest way to replace body mounts: Daystar's 1-inch polyurethane lift kit. It comes with all-new mounts, washers, bolts, and just about anything you'd need. I called up Quadratec and ordered kit #16053.30X for an '87-'95 Wrangler.

I'm getting ahead of myself though. To me, I am used to replacing body mounts because the rubber rots away. Playing with Jeeps in the Northeast for better than the last decade has taught me how much fun body lifts aren't on older Jeeps. Turns out I'm not bright enough to stop doing them, painful as they are. However, I am bright enough to figure out ways that make rusted, body-mount bolt removal easier. Follow along and see my proof that won the bet.

PhotosView Slideshow


West Chester, PA 19380
Daystar Products International
Blaster Chemical Companies, Inc.

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