1989 Jeep Cherokee Camshaft Change - engine View - Photo 8955914

Back to Article

Our '89 Jeep Cherokee came to us with a cracked head, but Bitetto found a new head and had it back on the road in time for our test. Despite 130,000 miles on the odometer, a compression check revealed that the engine was sound and a great test bed for our

154 0607 02 z+1989 jeep cherokee camshaft change+jeep camshaft

154 0607 02 z+1989 jeep cherokee camshaft change+jeep camshaft

154 0607 11 z+1989 jeep cherokee camshaft change+power curves

It seems like a lot of work, but the camshaft finally emerges from our engine. Using a long bolt in the end of the camshaft is helpful in leveraging its removal. Avoid banging the camshaft around when pulling it from the engine or you could damage the cam bearings inside the engine. Install the new cam and lifters and put the engine back together as per your service manual.

Our '89 Jeep Cherokee came to us with a cracked head, but Bitetto found a new head and had it back on the road in time for our test. Despite 130,000 miles on the odometer, a compression check revealed that the engine was sound and a great test bed for our

As with most underhood engine projects, the first thing you do is disconnect the battery cables. In our case, to achieve enough room, we removed the entire battery but left

You'll also have to remove the distributor and most of the components in front of the engine, including the cooling fan(s), belts, fan shroud, tranny cooler (if equipped), radiator, and grille. You should be able to maneuver the A/C condenser aside without disconnecting the hoses and releasing the pressure. There needs to be enough clearance to slide the long camshaft out the front of the block.

Pull the valve cover and remove the rocker arms. Note, on this engine there is no rocker lash adjustment other than differing pushrod or valve stem lengths. The rockers only go on one way and are torqued in place when reinstalled. Very simple.

Rocker arms and pushrods wear in a specific way unique to their position. They should be returned to the engine in the same position they came out. Keep them in order to remember their position for reinstallation. Inspect them for damage and clean them before

Unlike a V-8, you'll need to pull the head to swap the cam on a 4.0L. Replacing the head bolts is not a bad idea if your engine has seen more than 100,000 miles like ours. Lifting off the head can be a struggle, especially when removed with the intake and exhaust manifolds. This total unit weighs around 110 pounds. An engine hoist makes the process much easier.

Using a magnet, you can pull the 12 lifters from their bores and discard them. New COMP Cams lifters are slathered with assembly lube and installed in their place once the new cam is installed.

The idler pulley, crank pulley, timing-chain cover, timing chain, and timing sprockets are last to come off before