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Daystar Stinger Bumps for Compression Protection

Posted in How To: Suspension Brakes on March 23, 2017
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The polyurethane bumpstops on the rear of our trail Tacoma had seen a lot of miles in seven years, and they were a little battle worn. We could have replaced them with another set but decided to upgrade instead. Since we use the truck for everything from slow rockcrawling to expedition trips, the bumps see a variety of conditions. We also hit them fairly hard on occasion when running bumpy dirt roads loaded with a lot of camping gear.

We didn’t really need the performance or the expense of a full hydraulic bumpstop, so we decided to install more economical Daystar Stingers. They are a rebuildable stop that uses EVS foam inserts to provide a progressive compression action. The short version offers 2 3/4 inches of stroke, the long version 4 1/4 inches. Mounting can be done using either standard 2-inch mounting cans or a weld-on end to which the stop can be threaded.

On our Tacoma we removed the old bumpstops and welded a pair of Daystar mounting cans to the rear frame above the leaf spring pads on the axle. Each stop uses two foam inserts. Two densities are available, which gives you three combinations to choose from for how firm you want the bumpstop to be. Daystar also includes internal spacers that can be used to reduce the stroke travel if needed.

With the upgraded stops we now have more control over the final inches of suspension travel on the rear of our truck. That helps when we are fully flexed in the boulders or bottom out on rough trails when carrying heavy camping loads.

Here’s a look at the parts as they came from Daystar. The Stingers come unassembled but go together quickly, allowing you to choose the length and insert combination that works best for your application.
An inner bumpstop (left) is threaded onto the bumpstop shaft. The lower bronze endcap slides over the shaft. Then the outer bumpstop is threaded into the shaft.
This image gives you an idea of how the Stinger will be assembled with the shaft assembly and a pair of the EVS foam inserts that will slip inside the bumpstop body.
The lower endcap is threaded into the body. We used a spanner wrench to tighten the cap to the body.
Next, the EVS foam inserts are installed. We decided to use one insert of each density as a starting setup in the new bumpstops.
Finally the top endcap is installed with a spanner wrench and a steel retaining ring installed on the outer body to position the stop in the mounting can.
As an alternative to mounting cans, Daystar offers endcaps that can be welded on your chassis and the bumpstop body threaded onto this piece.
Here is a look at one of our old poly bumpstops. It was starting to wear away, and the stack had cracks from aging and use.
The mount cans wouldn’t work well on the outside of our framerails, as the tires would rub them under full articulation. We cut into the inner side and tack-welded the cans in place.
While we are welding mount cans, we like to slip a piece of 2-inch scrap tubing inside them to minimize distortion of the mount due to heat.
With the mounting cans welded in place, we turned our attention to building new landing pads above our leaf packs. We run flipped U-bolts for clearance so needed to devise a good method to attach a top landing plate. We reused the U-bolt plates we had and added raised perches to support landing plates.
We decided to mount landing plates to the perches using several recessed flathead socket screws. We estimated the range of area where the bumpstop tip should land when the axle bottoms level and when the axle is fully articulated. Should we need to adjust this location in the future, we can remake a set of new top plates that are drilled to offset the landing pad where needed.


Phoenix, AZ 85043

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