Fuel Pump Modification, Dana 44 Disc Brake Conversion, and a 3/4-Ton GM Axle For A CJ-7! Yes, That's Right We're Bad!
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Fuel Pump Mods For TBI Chevy V-8 Swap
Q I have a 1983 GMC with a four-speed transmission and a carbureted 350ci V-8. I want to take the 350 out of a 1990 Suburban with the TBI and computer. I think I have it all figured out except the electric fuel pump and return lines. The truck has dual tanks, and the Suburban doesn't. Any easy fix would be greatly appreciated. Also if there are any other fine points I may be missing, please let me know, but I think it is a pretty easy swap.
A That is a tough question, and the simple answer is: an external electric fuel pump as close to each tank as possible; a double-throw switch so one switch would control each pump; a control valve to open and close the fuel to either pump in front of or after the pump; and another control valve on each return line. Manual valves could be used, but the hose routing to put the valves in a reachable location might be difficult, so electrical valves would probably be needed. If you found a heavy enough rated switch, you could use one for everything or mount relays.
While it is tempting to use all rubber line for ease of routing, I suggest you use hard metal line as much as possible, as over time the rubber will degenerate due to weather and heat.
Maybe one of our readers has a better solution?
Disc-Brake Conversion For 8-Lug Dana 44?
Q I have a Chevy Dana 44 eight-lug front axle with drum brakes that I want to convert to discs. My question is, can the drum/spindle assembly be disassembled (i.e., like the full-floater 14-bolt), and Chevy eight-lug rotors attached to them without modifications? If not, what will I have to do to make this axle work?
A I had to think on this one a bit, and after a bit of research, was still not very sure of my answer. My first thought was, "Why not just exchange the complete front end?" But I'm sure you thought about that, so there may be some kind of problem with doing a complete axle swap. I had to have some help on this, so I went to Stephen Watson, owner of Off Road Design (www.offroaddesign.com). I figured that if anyone had the answer, he would-and he gave me the following information.
"Honestly, I don't know if you can take the drum off the wheel hub and just put a disc on it. I would guess not, since the spacing is probably different along with possible problems with the thickness of the drum versus disc center, stud differences, etc.
"One problem with drum-to-disc conversions that I am aware of is that the spindle bolt pattern on the knuckle is rotated different from the disc knuckles. The issue is that the caliper mount rotates with the spindle bolt pattern, and it moves the caliper up to where it interferes with crossover steering arms-and I assume it also interferes with a factory steering arm to some extent.
"The safe answer is to find everything from the knuckles on a disc-braked Dana 44 or GM 10-bolt and swap it all on, if you want to keep that Dana 44 centersection. If not, just run the whole disc brake axle.
"If you start sourcing just wheel hubs, you'll have to be careful because there was a spindle change in the 1/2-ton trucks, and I think there was a similar spindle change in the 3/4-ton trucks in the early '70s. It's probably safer to just keep the spindles and hubs together when swapping.
"This is probably not what you want to hear, but not much to do about that. It's hard to put much money into conversion parts when there's a chance to find a complete axle with better parts for a couple of hundred bucks."
"Another plus to finding a later-model disc-braked axle to use, or for parts, is that you have a chance to get away from the external-spline locking hub that's not terrible, but is less desirable than the later internal spline version. The newer housing may also be a larger diameter tube, though I don't know that would be a fact.