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Ratio Right - Gearing

Posted in How To: Transmission Drivetrain on March 1, 2013 Comment (0)
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Photographers: Ali MansourJohn Cappa

Building your 4x4 can be one of the most enjoyable and rewarding adventures that you will ever take. While we understand that not everyone is a master fabricator, simply getting to know the basics of how your rig operates will put you on the path to becoming an ace wrench. One of the keys to mastering the ins and outs of your 4x4 is grasping the numerous gear ratios that run throughout your rigs drivetrain. These are the ratios inside of your transmission, transfer case, and differentials.

Gear ratios are easy to follow, once you have the basic formula understood. For example; if you have a 5.13:1 differential gearset, it means that for every 5.13 times the pinion rotates, the wheel-end makes one complete rotation. In terms of a transfer case, a 4:1 ratio indicates that the transfer case output turns once for every four times that the transfer case input shaft rotates. It’s all about torque multiplication.

Each drivetrain component plays a vital role in how your rig performs both on- and off-road. One ratio that you will see frequently is the crawl ratio. The crawl ratio is a simple number that you can find by using the following equation (First gear ratio in the transmission x the transfer case low range ratio x the differential gear ratio). A numerically high crawl ratio number is great for rockcrawling, as it provides you with increased torque and control. For playing in places like the sand and mud, where wheelspeed is important, a higher crawl ratio isn’t as important or warranted.

Of course, the staff here at Four Wheeler each has their own crazy ideas of what gear ratios work best where. For that reason we’ve decided to break down each drivetrain component into its own category and let editors Cappa, Brubaker, and Mansour weigh in on each. Think you have a better drivetrain solution? Join the online conversation at www.fourwheeler.com.

Manual Transmission
Cappa’s Take
I’m a manual transmission kind of guy in most cases. I enjoy being a part of the driving experience. I mean, if you were buying a sports car and you chose an auto, you’re kind of a weenie—even if it is a paddle shift. Selecting a manual transmission is very black and white for me. If the rig will see more street use than dirt, I like the modern five-speed overdrive transmissions, like the NV3550 and the NV4500. They are civilized enough to drive every day, yet still have a usable First gear for technical trail work and plenty of heft to keep from grenading when abused.

The extra Overdrive gear allows you to run slightly deeper axle gears, say in the 5.13 to 5.38 range with only 35- and 37-inch tires, without totally killing your highway speed and fuel economy. If my planned build is dirt-based I’m more likely to go with an old cast-iron truck four-speed with a really low First gear. The SM420 with its 7.02:1 First and the T-18 with a 6.32:1 are two of my favorites, but the NP435, SM465, and other similar truck transmissions are all viable options. With that super low First gear I’ve found I can get away with far less axle gear. In some cases, I’ve been able to make even 4.10 axle gears work with up to 37-inch tires both on- and off-road behind a stock V-8. Although, if I’m running a V-6, I’ll max out at a 35-inch tire with the 4.10s. If I’m eyeballing 40s or bigger with my V-6 and manual tranny I’m looking at 5.13 and deeper gears.

Brubaker’s Take
I drove a semi with a 10-speed manual transmission for a number of years, so I have no interest in rowing gears anymore. But if someone put a clutch pedal to my throat, I’d want a six-speed like the G56 found in the Ram 2500/3500 pickups behind the Cummins turbodiesel. With a First gear ratio of 5.94:1, I’d have big-time crawlability as well as the grunt to get going no matter what the grade/weight of trailer/load. The Sixth gear ratio of 0.74:1 would help make the rig highway-friendly.

Mansour’s Take
I enjoy a manual transmission in most scenarios on- and off-road. I like the gearing options and find that the control and overall driving experience is better. In terms of manual transmission types, I am a fan of the NV3550 as it is a more versatile five-speed that can live behind mild V-8 power. I don’t care for four-speeds, as I view them as more limiting on the highway. A granny-low First gear is cool, but if I am spending most of my time tooling in the rocks, I am more apt to have an auto. If you’re running a naturally aspirated four-cylinder engine or anemic six-cylinder, a manual transmission can make the rig way more enjoyable.

Automatic Transmission
Cappa’s Take
If I go with an auto in my trail rig I want simplicity and something bombproof that’s inexpensive, so when it does smoke I can have it rebuilt without selling one of my 4x4s to pay for it. That means I’m sticking with the common older three-speed autos like the GM TH350, and TH400, Chrysler 727, and Ford C4 and C6. The four-speed autos are just too complex for my taste. That really limits my axle gear options if I want any kind of on-road speed, though. I’ve had good results matching the three-speed autos to 5.13 gears and 40-inch tires behind a V-8.

The rpm really winds up on the highway, but it’s doable for a rig that sees mostly trail use and short drives. I’ve also run unusual combos that sorta worked, including a stock V-8 backed by a three-speed auto, 37-inch tires, and pathetic 3.73 gears. It was a pig on-road, but since it was mostly an off-road rig for me, I found that shifting in the 2.61:1 low range made it livable in the dirt. When working with the more modern four- and five-speed overdrive transmissions I think deeper axle gearing is better. It helps compensate for some of the power loss and pathetic shift points many of these trannies have. Behind a V-6 and four- or five-speed auto I’ll opt for a gear that is typically one or two steps deeper than normal. For 35-inch tires I’ll look for 4.88 gears. For 37s I’ll aim for 5.13s or 5.38s.

Brubaker’s Take
Since I can only afford one 4x4 and that one vehicle has to do it all, I have embraced the new electronic automatic transmissions due to their incredible versatility. I want a respectable low First gear ratio for slow speed work and a healthy overdrive for highway driving. This is why I like transmissions such as the Allison 1000 six-speed. With a First gear ratio of 3.10:1 and a Sixth gear ratio of 0.61:1 it does a good job of covering all the bases. And the later models offer manual shifting for even more control without that infernal rowing.

Mansour’s Take
Most modern automatic transmissions are downright scary. Many of the new autos come fitted with a “lube-for-life” faux dipstick cap, which means you can’t simply check the fluid after you submerge your wheeler. While the technology inside can be a bit overwhelming, the fact is that many of the new autos are pretty robust. While I agree with Cappa’s take on the classic three-speeds, if you are piloting a newer truck, you won’t be easily swapping transmissions without inheriting a barrage of dashboard lights and a wiring nightmare.

For automatic rigs I tend to overcompensate in the differential gearing department. For example, if the gear conversion chart suggests 4.88s to put the rpms back to stock, I will likely opt for 5.13s. This is especially helpful for those living in a mountainous area as it will keep your transmission from constantly searching. Once again, if you have a smaller engine, numerically higher gears will generally always be a good thing on- and off-road.

Transfer Case
Cappa’s Take
I’m a huge fan of multi-speed transfer cases and crawl boxes, although to be honest, I have never owned either. They are a smart choice for those that like to own one versatile vehicle that excels at many different kinds of off-road use. Sand dune and mud driving is typically much easier with a 2:1 to 3:1 low range gear ratio. This provides the gearing to get the engine wound up into the sweet spot, yet still allows enough wheelspeed to get where you wanna go. If all you hit is rocks and slow technical trails then a 4:1 or deeper is the way to go.

Brubaker’s Take
I don’t need a super crawly T-case for the type of off-road driving that I do (on the farm or on old mining roads in Colorado). I’m perfectly happy with a 2:1 ratio as found in the NP205. It hasn’t let me down yet. However, if I did have a need for lower gearing, I’d probably go with Offroad Design’s NP203/205 Doubler kit, which would offer the option of a conservative 4:1 ratio if I needed it.

Mansour’s Take
With the understanding that I like my rigs on the more powerful side, I am not a huge fan of overly low transfer case gearing. For the wheeling that I mostly do, a 2.72:1 or 3.0:1 works extremely well. There is plenty of mud around my neck of the woods, as there are loose hillclimbs. If it’s dry, many of the obstacles you can crawl right up. If it’s wet, you need wheelspeed.

The NP231 and NV241 are both excellent chain-driven T-cases, but both need to be fitted with a skid or protection if you are playing in the rocks. Every Dana 300 I have ever been around has leaked, which drives me crazy, but they are very versatile. If you have the money, an Atlas two-speed transfer case is a great investment and typically the only drawback you’ll encounter is a bit of gear noise.

Differential
Cappa’s Take
Funny thing is that I have certain axle ratios I just like. These include 4.10, 5.13, 5.38, and 6.72. There is nothing rational about it in some cases, and in others it’s a financial, strength, or availability decision. For example, if I’m running Rockwell axles I’m sticking with the 6.72 gears. Changing them out for a custom one-off ratio is just too expensive. In a trail-specific Dana 44 the deepest I’ll go is with a 5.38. A 5.89 is available, but since my first Jeep had 5.38s that’s what I think that axle should have. Plus, the 5.38 has one extra tooth on the pinion making it marginally stronger. My Ford 9-inch axles are typically backed with 37- to 38-inch tires so they get either 4.10 or 5.13 gears depending on the application. Anything in-between has never been an option. I suppose maybe it’s because I’ve successfully run these axle ratios in 90 percent (or better) of the rigs I have owned and wheeled hard.

Brubaker’s Take
When I fit larger tires onto a rig I use a differential gear ratio chart to choose the new axle gear ratio. I’m not big on experimenting with differential ratios because it’s not inexpensive and if I make a mistake I’m stuck with it. Personally, I like to keep the engine rpm’s as close to stock as possible to keep the engine and transmission happy. This has worked well for me so far, as I’ve had regeared 4x4s that have performed well and didn’t suffer from a drastic mpg drop.

Mansour’s Take
I tend to run 37s on most of my rigs these days and have found that a 5.13:1 ratio puts everything in a happy balance. What type of axles you have and how much power output your engine is making are two very big details to consider. There are numerous gear conversion charts and most are pretty accurate. I tend to run a little higher of a numerical gear than most since most of my wheelers are not daily-driven. For pulling out good fuel economy you have to balance where your engine makes power and how high of an rpm are you willing to live with. For the most part, differential gears are the most important gears that you can swap in. Fitting the right gear ratio inside of your diffs will prolong the life of your transmission and give the rig back the power and drivability that the larger tire set removed.

Ultimate Combo
Cappa’s Take
I guess I’m gonna go with the one that was the most fun for me to drive everywhere. This particular 4x4 had a 350hp V-8, a TH350 auto tranny, a Dana 300 T-case with the stock 2.62:1 low range, Dana 44 and Ford 9-inch axles with 5.13 axle gears, and 38-inch tires. It wasn’t perfect and I would smoke the transmission and grenade front axles in the rocks if I wasn’t careful, but it was just a good, fun, light-weight, inexpensive, all-around beater combo. Ideally, I would have added something like a 2:1 crawl box or doubler to compound the gearing in the rocks and save the automatic transmission. Ultimately, the best combo is really dependent on the kind of wheeling you do, your 4x4s wheelbase, weight, tire size, your driving style, and more.

Brubaker’s Take
Duramax turbodiesel, Allison 1000, NP205 (or any other tough T-case with a conservative low range), and the appropriate differential gearset (per the chart, and preferably spinning in AAM axles). That’s a more than suitable drivetrain combo for me whether I’m plowing snow, pulling a horse trailer through the muck, or cresting Imogene Pass in Colorado.

Mansour’s Take
My dream is simple. GM 6.0L V-8 with a little tuning and air flow adjustments, 4L65E nicely built if I am going to keep it highway-friendly or a fully-built TH350 if I am trail only, two-speed Atlas with a 3.0:1 ratio, and a set of 5.13 gears. I’m also partial to how I originally built my ’99 Dodge Durango which had a factory 5.9L V-8, 46RE, NP242D, and set of 2½-ton Rockwell axles with the factory 6.72:1 gears.

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