• JP Magazine
  • Dirt Sports + Off-Road
  • 4-Wheel & Off-Road
  • Four Wheeler
  • Get A Print Subscription
  • Get A Digital Subscription
  • Gift Subscriptions
  • Subscriber Services
  • Back Issues
  • Personalized Covers

better Slushy - royal Purple Max Atf Fluid - Photo 35628125

Back to Article
Share this
  • Always add fluid to the torque converter to keep the transmission from running dry at startup. It goes without saying that you should replace all the old fluid with new. Jeeps R Us isn’t a dedicated transmission shop, so they didn’t have a fluid reclamation/recirculation machine. Instead, Garcia blew out the transmission cooler lines with compressed air. The entire system was refilled with a total of 8 quarts of Royal Purple Max ATF, including the quart that was put into the torque converter. After that is filled, carefully slide it onto the input shaft without forcing the converter and keep in mind the input seal. Then reassembly is the opposite of removal.
Always add fluid to the torque converter to keep the transmission from running dry at startup. It goes without saying that you should replace all the old fluid with new. Jeeps R Us isn’t a dedicated transmission shop, so they didn’t have a fluid reclamation/recirculation machine. Instead, Garcia blew out the transmission cooler lines with compressed air. The entire system was refilled with a total of 8 quarts of Royal Purple Max ATF, including the quart that was put into the torque converter. After that is filled, carefully slide it onto the input shaft without forcing the converter and keep in mind the input seal. Then reassembly is the opposite of removal.
154 1205 01+better slushy+1998 jeep cherokee The first step (after disconnecting the battery, of course) is to support the transmission and T-case. If you have an aftermarket skidplate like we do, you won’t be able to disconnect any of the vital components until it is out of the way. However, the skid supports the transmission and T-case, so before removing it all willy-nilly, put something under the T-case output to support the drivetrain. If you are doing this at home, a jackstand on the T-case output is usually the best way to go. Once you’ve got the skidplate out of the way, you are free to pull the driveshafts off the T-case. We are still running the stock driveshafts, so the front one unbolts from the T-case at the CV joint. The rear shaft unbolts from the differential and then just pulls out of the slip yoke on the T-case. Fasten the front shaft up with a bungee cord or zip ties, and be careful not to lose the U-joint caps off of the rear shaft when you lay it out of the way. Larry Garcia was the main wrench on our Jeep that day; he discovered that the rear pinion seal was leaking so he ordered and installed a new one. That would have been a long bike ride to the parts store for us. If your exhaust still crosses under your engine behind the oil pan, you are going to have to disconnect it from the header/manifold and lower it. The first step to lowering the exhaust is to remove exhaust hanger at the transmission mount. Once that is loose, disconnect any O2 sensors you have in the downtube, and then unbolt the downtube from the manifold. Soaking the bolts at the manifold with penetrating lube can help loosen them; if you live in the rust belt or your Jeep has lived in the rust belt, you are going to want to buy new bolts, nuts, washers, and lock washers before you start the job. One of the things that a lot of us forget when doing this type of work is to completely disconnect the wiring. Usually we end up testing the tensile strength of one or two wires. Garcia showed us that the easiest way to pull the electrical connections to the transmission and T-case in this Jeep is to disconnect these two plugs that can be found about halfway up the firewall. You will also want to remove the tranny cooler lines from the passenger-side of the transmission. Be sure to drain the transmission first. Garcia actually drained the transmission while he was removing the driveshafts, and by the time he got to this point the lines were mostly empty. Still, mostly empty isn’t entirely empty, and the few ounces of ATF left in the lines will make a big puddle. An old water bottle can be used to catch the rest of the fluid. If your transmission has one, you will need to remove the kickdown cable. On the AW4 the easiest way to do that is to remove it at the engine end. Start at the throttle body and work back towards the transmission. In our case, there was a clip at the throttle body, a plastic retainer at the throttle linkage bracket, a plastic clip on top of the engine, and a plastic washer that attaches to a stud in the firewall. Once all that was disconnected, we were able to pull the cable down under the Jeep, ensuring that it wouldn’t get snagged on anything when the transmission came out. Once you’ve removed all electrical, fluid, and vent lines and cables you are ready to pull the transmission off the engine. But wait, if this is your first automatic transmission removal, you probably don’t know that the torque converter is bolted to the flexplate. Sure, you could pull the transmission without removing the four bolts that hold the torque converter in, but it makes the removal much more difficult and messy. The first time you pull an ’80s or ’90s Jeep transmission out of the Jeep, you’ll find these little buggers. They are external Torx bolts and located way up at the top of the bellhousing. While it is possible to pound a 3⁄8-inch, 12-point socket onto them, you might want to make your life easier by picking up an E14 socket before you start the procedure. If someone pounded a 12-point socket on them in the past, you will see the damage when you take these bolts out; you might want to replace them with regular hex head-bolts.
Here, Garcia compares the new stock-spec Omix-Ada torque converter on the left to our old burnt unit on the right. Even though Omix-Ada makes good parts, it is always a good practice to make sure there are no differences between the original and replacement part. For the converter, check for things like height, overall diameter, the flexplate-side bolt pattern and bolt size, and the OD of the sealing surface where the converter slides into the transmission. There is nothing worse than getting the transmission back in and discovering something doesn’t line up or fit. There were two parts we didn’t think of before we started this job. One was a new element for the B&M auxiliary filter, which we were able to get from the parts store. The other was the input seal on the transmission. Unfortunately, the parts store didn’t have it in stock and since we needed the Jeep on the road that day, we couldn’t wait. Garcia inspected our existing seal and it was still soft, the spring was still in it, and there were no cracks in the rubber. So, we lucked out and were able to re-use the old seal. Do yourself a favor, though—pick up this seal and whatever filter or filters you will need before you start. Always add fluid to the torque converter to keep the transmission from running dry at startup. It goes without saying that you should replace all the old fluid with new. Jeeps R Us isn’t a dedicated transmission shop, so they didn’t have a fluid reclamation/recirculation machine. Instead, Garcia blew out the transmission cooler lines with compressed air. The entire system was refilled with a total of 8 quarts of Royal Purple Max ATF, including the quart that was put into the torque converter. After that is filled, carefully slide it onto the input shaft without forcing the converter and keep in mind the input seal. Then reassembly is the opposite of removal.
Back to Article
< 1 - 9 of >

Related Galleries

Connect With Us

Newsletter Sign Up

Subscribe to the Magazine

Sponsored Links