vintage Jeep Projects - ratty Interior - Photo 27867679

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Don't get hung up on a ratty interior, broken gauges, or missing or beat up seats. Jeep interiors are cheap and easy to repair or replace. As long as the major components are present, like the steering column, pedal assemblies, and seat frames, the rest is gravy to replace or upgrade.

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All '71-earlier CJ and many other vintage Jeeps used this antiquated Ross cam and lever steering setup. There are two things to watch out for regarding vintage Jeep steering. First is severe slop in the stock cam and lever end links, steering box, sector shaft, or bellcrank. The second is scary owner-fabricated Saginaw conversions that retrofit a manual or power steering box to the framerail. Few steering conversions we've seen are done well and even fewer stock cam and lever systems are in good order. Either way, point out the spookiness to the seller and let the asking price drop.

Surprisingly few vintage Jeeps have survived the decades without a repower of some sort. Although '66-'71 CJs could be had factory-equipped with a Buick 225, many flatties and early CJs have been repowered by Buick 225 V-6 or Chevy or Ford V-8 engines. If upgraded power is what you're after and a factory V-6 vehicle doesn't surface, many of these engine conversions are competently done and can save you some money and hassle with your project. Back in the day it was more common to use a conversion bellhousing or a bellhousing adapter to mate the new engine to the factory Jeep transmission, but with the selection of adapters nowadays, it's increasingly easy to swap in a new transmission if the factory gearbox has had it.

Although not crucial for a trail buildup, if you're looking for an old MB, GPW, M-38, M38A1, or other military vehicle to restore, pay attention to the dash, brass data plates, and other hard-to-find items like glovebox doors, jerrycan holders, and so on. Chopped, cut, and butchered panels are a bummer to repair or replace because the aftermarket parts are rarely of the same thickness and quality as the originals. Likewise, reproduction brass data plates will lack the proper patina and are expensive to purchase. If you find a complete example like Don Allen's M38A1 (pictured), keep your enthusiasm under your hat and try to point out the vehicle's faults to the seller, rather than yelling out, "Wow, cool! I scored on this one!"

See what extras the seller may have laying around that they're willing to throw into the deal...

...Even if you don't use them, you can sell them online at several of the websites highlighted in the sidebar, "Where to Shop."

You'll want to take a good, hard look at the frame and undercarriage to spot any existing or repaired frame cracks, check for bashed crossmembers, missing driveshafts, clutch or brake pedal components, or anything that looks bent, broken, or out of place. Missing or mangled items that may prove hard-to-find or expensive-to-replace, such as fuel tanks, radiators, hoods, and windshield frames, are good items to use to haggle down the price.

Don't get hung up on a ratty interior, broken gauges, or missing or beat up seats. Jeep interiors are cheap and easy to repair or replace. As long as the major components are present, like the steering column, pedal assemblies, and seat frames, the rest is gravy to replace or upgrade.

Unless you're looking to swap drivetrains right off the bat, pay close attention to the condition of the engine, transmission, T-case, and axles. Considering it costs as much to rebuild a Jeep L- or F-head four-cylinder as it does to rebuild a Chevy V-8, making sure the engine you start with is in good shape and is worth the effort. At the very least, pull the dipstick and check for water in the oil. Hardcore buyers may want to pull the drain plugs in the tranny and T-case to check for water as well. You can usually just remove the fill plugs in the axles and check fluid condition and level with a flashlight or your finger.

Resist focusing in on one or two key components that may inflate the price but that could easily be added to another candidate that can be had for less money. Sure, the Jeep you're considering may have a vintage Warn Overdrive or a PTO winch attached to it, but if the rest of the vehicle is a total pile, it may make more sense to buy a candidate in better shape without these parts and add them later. You'd be surprised at how many PTOs and Overdrives there are kicking around for sale on the Internet for around $500.