1971 Chevy Suburban Superlift Suspension - Project SuperBurb Part II

BEFORE

The Before and After
We were surprised at the amount of flex that the Suburban had in stock condition. Most of it was due to the stock springs, which were completely worn out. Because of the softness of the springs, the Suburban was all over the road, and on the trail it would quickly blow through its meager suspension travel. In stock form our Suburban managed a 562 RTI score on a steep 30-degree ramp.

AFTER

After the lift was installed, we hit the 30-degree ramp again. Though contact between the front tires and the fenders stopped our progress before the Burb could achieve full flex, it did manage an RTI of 603. We expect a slightly higher number after some fender trimming and after the springs break in.

Important Numbers

Installing a suspension system isn't just about flex. We made large gains in approach and departure angles that will help the big Burb on the trail. The most impressive gain was clearance under the low-hanging transfer-case crossmember, and improvement that will help keep the Burb from high-centering. Check out the following before and after numbers.

More Axle Beef

After last month's axle install we decided to do a little light wheeling. We quickly found that one of our hubs was busted. Upon disassembling the front Dana 44 we were horrified to discover puny axleshafts that looked like toothpicks, and tiny U-joints that looked like they came out of a Jeep.

A quick call to Warn solved our problems. First we ordered a set of Warn's premium manual-locking hubs for our Dana 44. But we knew we had to get rid of those puny axleshafts, so we also opted to get a set of Warn's 4340 chrome/nickel alloy shafts. They don't neck down like our stock ones did, and we can use the bigger and stronger 297X U-joint. Another nice feature is that they are machined to accept full-circle retaining clips, which do a much better job of retaining the U-joint.

Fire and Breaker Bars
Having an air compressor and an impact wrench sure is nice, but such accoutrements are not in the buildup budget right now. In place of air power, there are a few helpful techniques to remove stubborn nuts and bolts, and working on a 32-year-old vehicle gave us plenty of chances to use them. First, always have a big breaker bar in your tool chest to provide extra leverage. If that doesn't work, we take the handle off our jack and slip it over our breaker bar to make one giant extended breaker bar. When that doesn't work, and as a last resort, we break out the propane torch. We let the flame from the propane torch play on the offending nut for about two minutes. Then we spray it with Liquid Wrench or WD-40--neither seems to ignite. We then immediately attempt to remove the stubborn nut. So far this technique has worked for us--the heating and then instant cooling seems to free the nut every time. Once you've done this, though, toss the nut and/or bolt and buy new ones.

The Tires and Wheels
Due to the multi-purpose nature of SuperBurb, tire choice was very critical, since the tires we chose had to be able to tackle a wide variety of tasks. That is why we decided on a set of Pro Comp Xterrains in the 315/75R16 size. That's equivalent to a 35x12.50R16 in nonmetric lingo. They ride smoothly, are very quiet, and their aggressive tread does well in a variety of terrain. Another plus is their D load-range rating. We wrapped them around a set of 16x10 fully polished Xtreme Alloys from 4Wheel Parts Wholesalers.

Project SuperBurb - Part 1
Project SuperBurb- Part 3
Project SuperBurb- Part 4
Project SuperBurb- Part 5
Project SuperBurb- Part 6