 Lights Installing the IPF...  Lights
Installing the IPF rally lights requires the removal of the Xterra's airbox. First unhook the latches that hold the top half down. Pull the air filter and unbolt the base of the filter housing and remove it. |  Once you've pulled the airbox,...  Once you've pulled the airbox, connect the provided relay to the lights' wiring harness and bolt the wires to the electrical terminals in the sidewall of the driver-side fender. Snake the positive terminal through to the battery and the lamp's on/off switch through the engine compartment firewall. |  The bully bar offers four...  The bully bar offers four mounting points for auxiliary lighting. Bolt the lights to the ARB bumper, then position and tighten them. Use zip-ties on the wires for a cleaner look. |
 After lengthening the positive...  After lengthening the positive wire, attach it to the battery. You may want to cut the battery terminal boot to make room for this and the winch solenoid's positive terminal. |  In the cab, we installed the...  In the cab, we installed the on/off switch to the left of the steering wheel after making a slight horizontal cut into the dash at the best possible mounting point. Then we stuck the switch to the black plastic mount with double-sided tape. |  The final step in the light...  The final step in the light install is to snap on the IPF lights' covers. |
 Snorkel Leave the airbox...  Snorkel
Leave the airbox out and remove the left-hand lighting assembly. Remove the plastic inner guard from the wheelwell and get rid of the air-cleaner baffle from inside the quarter-panel. There are three bolts that hold it in, all accessed through the engine compartment. Two are easy to get to and unbolt, while accessing the third, located at the rear of the baffle, requires you to loosen the ABS housing. |  The snorkel comes with a template...  The snorkel comes with a template that you then tape to the fender in order to know exactly where you need to cut your holes. Drill the six rear-stud mounting holes out to 14 mm and the front hole out to 12 mm. Use an 86mm hole saw to drill out the inlet hole. Use a sander to file down the burs and smooth the edges, then apply a rust preventative to the exposed steel. |  Vacuum seal the air-cleaner...  Vacuum seal the air-cleaner intake. Disconnect the air sensor and pull out the black rubber precleaner air tube. Make sure it fits the snorkel's intermediate tube. Ours didn't so you can see here that we shortened it and cut a 21/2-inch incision into the rubber. Then we returned it to the precleaner and fit it through the inside of the fender into the intermediate tube securing it with a hose clamp. One bolt holds the intermediate tube to the fenderwell. |
 Loctite the bolts to the snorkel...  Loctite the bolts to the snorkel body, fit it to the quarter-panel and attach the upper snorkel bracket to it. Remove the door's weatherstripping. Mark the bracket-mounting points on the driver-side A-pillar and drill holes for the bracket screws. Then screw on the mounting bracket. |  Tighten all the bolts and...  Tighten all the bolts and install the air ram to the top of the snorkel body. Reinstall the airbox and filter, fitting the precleaner adapter tube back into the airbox. Attach the inner guard to the left wheel arch and the install is completed. |  Rear Lamp Cover The rear...  Rear Lamp Cover
The rear lamp covers are easy to install. Clean the lamp, apply the provided adhesive and attach the cover using the double-sided tape. First stick it to the rear of the lamp and then around to the sides. |