1992 Ford F-150 - Twin Traction Beam Rebuild

Project Fiery Redhead - Part 1
Project Fiery Redhead - Part 2
Project Fiery Redhead - Part 3
Project Fiery Redhead - Part 4
Project Fiery Redhead - Part 5
Project Fiery Redhead - Part 6
Project Fiery Redhead - Part 7
Project Fiery Redhead - Part 8
Project Fiery Redhead - Part 9
Project Fiery Redhead - Part 10

With almost 150,000 miles showing on our project Fiery Redhead F-150's odometer, it came as no surprise that the front end was manifesting some signs of wear. The most aggravating problem was ungodly front-end vibrations when in four-wheel drive, clearly caused by axle joints that had been ignored by the previous owner. Other problems included a wheel bearing that ran hotter than its mate and a hub lockout that was spewing grease.

Now before we go any further, we need to note that early on, we decided to retain the Redhead's stock Twin Traction Beam (TTB) front suspension for this project. Sure, it would've been predictable to replace this butt-of-many-jokes suspension with a solid axle. But we're not predictable. The Ford TTB is a unique animal that offers good handling and a decent ride while still being able to accept a fair amount of abuse. Even though some TTB upgrade parts are hard to find, ultimately the suspension can be made to work better than it does when left stock. Besides, we know that many of you own TTB-equipped vehicles, and many of you want to know what can be done to improve its function and reliability.

Randy's Ring & Pinion had every bearing, race, seal and U-joint in stock for our TTB Ford. The brands included Randy's familiar in-house Yukon brand, as well as Spicer and Timken.

Randy's Ring & Pinion had every bearing, race, seal and U-joint in stock for our TTB Ford.

We called the axle gurus at Custom Differentials in Bloomsdale, Missouri. We've wanted to work with these guys ever since we showed you owner Jeremy Nager's ultra-functional '72 Blazer on the Aug. '02 cover of Four Wheeler. After hearing our story, Nager recommended that he and his crew breathe new life into the TTB by completing a total front-end rebuild of the mechanicals, and he set aside a day in his busy shop for us.

Our goal was to replace all the normal wear items, so we contacted Randy's Ring & Pinion and told them what we wanted to do. As usual, they had everything we needed in stock, including wheel bearings, axleshaft U-joints, seals and ball joints. Not only did we want to replace worn items, we also wanted to complete a couple of mandatory upgrades. Since the truck would soon be getting a 4-inch suspension lift and 33-inch tires, we contacted the folks at Motive Gear about some 4.10:1 gears.

Motive Gear is a massive wholesale supply house in the Chicago area. The folks there quickly sent out their Motive Gear ring-and-pinion, as well as the install kit we would need to complete the job. We also contacted Warn Industries for a pair of that company's heavy-duty Premium Hubs (see sidebar) to ensure that things would stay together under load. Finally, we contacted Tractech. We explained that the vehicle would be used as a combination work/play/commuter vehicle, and the folks there recommended the Truetrac limited-slip differential (see sidebar) due to its excellent road manners and traction-enhancing qualities.

Tractech's Truetrac

The Truetrac limited-slip is a helical gear-type limited-slip differential. Its patented design of parallel-axis, planetary helical gears provides a smooth and quiet automatic division of torque. The Truetrac can transfer up to 3.5 times more torque to the high-traction wheel than that wheel would get under normal driving conditions. This torque transfer ratio (called the bias ratio) is accomplished by using helical side gears and pinions. The bias ratio is the result of pressure exerted by the side gears and pinions against the surface of the differential case. Why did we use a limited-slip in the front of the Redhead? Well, unfortunately there isn't an Electrac application available for the TTB system yet, and we strongly feel that non-selectable lockers up front are inappropriate.

The result of our day of labor is a front end that's better than new. Out are the annoying vibrations and worn-out parts. In are enhanced traction, new gears and reliability. Follow along as we highlight the major components in the Redhead's front-end R&R. The following will give you a basic overview of what can be done to your TTB front end to enhance durability, reliability and capability.

We began the rebuild by raising the vehicle and removing the front driveshaft, wheels and brake calipers. Our truck had already been fitted with aftermarket hubs, but yours may still have the Ford automatic hubs. Either way, you have to remove the hubs to gain access to the spindle nuts. Remove the spindle nuts and the six bolts holding each spindle and backing plate. Use a puller to break the spindles loose from the knuckles.
We began the rebuild by raising the vehicle and removing the front driveshaft, wheels and
On the passenger side, the TTB uses a two-piece axleshaft. You'll need to remove the band on the axleshaft boot before you can remove the passenger-side axleshaft from the intermediate shaft. This boot is located near the differential. The driver-side uses a one-piece axleshaft that simply slides out of the centersection.
On the passenger side, the TTB uses a two-piece axleshaft. You'll need to remove the band
With the axleshafts out of the vehicle, we were able to replace the two outermost U-joints with new 5-760X Spicer alloy joints.
With the axleshafts out of the vehicle, we were able to replace the two outermost U-joints

The Ford TTB doesn't seem to stress ball joints like other systems. Because of this, many aftermarket suppliers say that they get little call for these units. Nonetheless, we installed new units in our high-mileage rig. The first step to installing them is to remove the tie rod at the knuckle and then remove the nuts holding the ball joints in place.
The Ford TTB doesn't seem to stress ball joints like other systems. Because of this, many
With the nuts off, we could remove the knuckles and hammer out the original ball joints. The bottom ball joint on each side has a snap ring that must be removed first (shown).
With the nuts off, we could remove the knuckles and hammer out the original ball joints. T
We pressed in the new ball joints and installed the new snap rings on the bottom joints. Assembly is completed by remounting the knuckle on the housing and installing the crown nuts and cotter pins.
We pressed in the new ball joints and installed the new snap rings on the bottom joints. A

In order to install the new Truetrac limited-slip and the Motive Gear gears, the centersection must be removed from the TTB. TTB is unlike other IFS systems in that the centersection is part of the suspension. To remove it, disconnect the breather tube and remove the two driver-side bolts (shown) and all of the front housing bolts.
In order to install the new Truetrac limited-slip and the Motive Gear gears, the centersec
The centersection can then be removed from the truck and taken to a bench for the upgrades.
The centersection can then be removed from the truck and taken to a bench for the upgrades
With the centersection on the bench, we removed the clip holding the passenger-side intermediate axleshaft (now is when we replaced the U-joint on this short shaft with the new alloy U-joint), bearing caps (they're marked from the factory to ensure correct reinstallation), the pinion nut, yoke, carrier, pinion shaft, pinion seal, bearing, race and oil slinger. With the centersection stripped, we thoroughly cleaned it in a parts washer. At this time we also cleaned the inside of the driver-side of the TTB, which doubles as the centersection mount/cover.
With the centersection on the bench, we removed the clip holding the passenger-side interm

Reassembly of the centersection began by bolting the new Motive Gear ring gear onto the Truetrac limited-slip.
Reassembly of the centersection began by bolting the new Motive Gear ring gear onto the Tr
The Motive Gear install kit included all of the new parts needed to complete the re-assembly of the centersection. After installing all of the components, Patrick at Custom Differentials set the backlash.
The Motive Gear install kit included all of the new parts needed to complete the re-assemb
With the backlash correctly set, the bearing caps were installed one last time. The last thing to be installed in the centersection is the intermediate axleshaft assembly. The design of the Truetrac requires removing this steel block (shown) from the carrier to reinstall the clip that holds the axleshaft in place. Finally, use the new gasket included in the install kit and reinstall the centersection in the housing.
With the backlash correctly set, the bearing caps were installed one last time. The last t

Warn Premium Manual Hubs

The forces exerted on manual lockout hubs are enormous. So it's important that you choose a hub that's as beefy as your truck. The Warn Premium Hubs that we installed on the Redhead are some of the beefiest around. They're entirely constructed of metal for strength and durability; they feature a thick internal wave spring that Warn says increases reliability over standard coil springs, and heavy dial detents for positive engagement. To ensure that they last a long time, they are designed with a ZA Alloy dial with dual seals to keep contaminants out and a thick chrome plating to resist corrosion.

Reinstall the axleshafts. Remember to reinstall the boot and band where the intermediate axleshaft mates with the outer axleshaft assembly on the passenger side.
Reinstall the axleshafts. Remember to reinstall the boot and band where the intermediate a
Since we knew at least one wheel bearing was shot, we installed new Timken bearings and hub seals from Randy's Ring & Pinion into the hub/rotor assemblies before we reinstalled them on the truck.
Since we knew at least one wheel bearing was shot, we installed new Timken bearings and hu
Next, we installed the stock dust shield, spindle, rotors and the new spindle kit. Then we reinstalled the brake calipers and front driveshaft.
Next, we installed the stock dust shield, spindle, rotors and the new spindle kit. Then we

Finally, we installed the new Warn Premium hubs per the instructions included with the kit. The last step is to add lube to the differential, double-check all fasteners and give the vehicle a testdrive.

SOURCES
Custom Differentials	TRACTECH, INC. 31900 Sherman Ave., Dept. SC Madison Heights MI 48071
Motive Gear 1001 W. Exchange Ave. Chicago IL 60609	Warn Industries 1200 SE Capps Rd. Clackamas OR 97015 8-00/-910-1122 www.warn.com
Randy's Ring & Pinion Everett WA 8-66/-631-0196 ringpinion.com