1992 Ford F-150 - Project Fiery Redhead, Part 3

Project Fiery Redhead - Part 1
Project Fiery Redhead - Part 2
Project Fiery Redhead - Part 3
Project Fiery Redhead - Part 4
Project Fiery Redhead - Part 5
Project Fiery Redhead - Part 6
Project Fiery Redhead - Part 7
Project Fiery Redhead - Part 8
Project Fiery Redhead - Part 9
Project Fiery Redhead - Part 10

The first sign of trouble manifested itself while driving on an uphill grade. Our F-150's E4OD transmission downshifted from 4th to 3rd gear and then promptly let loose with a series of scary vibrations from deep within its bowels. As soon as we lifted the throttle these vibrations ended, but it was clear that our E4OD's days of operation were drawing to a close.

At this point we were forced to make a decision. We could rebuild and beef the stock trans, install an aftermarket-modified trans or get rid of the E4OD altogether and replace it with a reliable, non-overdrive C6 unit. Since the F-150 is our daily driver, one of our goals was to retain as much fuel mileage as possible, so we dismissed the C6 option. That left either a rebuild or a ready-to-go aftermarket unit. Ultimately, we succumbed to our own curiosity--we knew if we took it somewhere to have it rebuilt, we could actually see what components had worn in our transmission, and we could see how these components are upgraded to prevent future failure.

The transmission was removed from the truck at Fiery Redhead's official buildup shop, Attitude Performance in Arlington Heights, Illinois, by owner Matt Dinelli. Dinelli recommended we contact Steve Jans at Valley Transmission & Brake in Skokie, Illinois. Jans has 30 years of experience completing transmission rebuilds and upgrades, and more importantly, he knows the E40D unit inside and out. Jans has learned what components tend to fail in these units, why they fail and how they can be upgraded to avoid a recurrence.

The following photos show the basics of the transmission removal and a few of the notable internal upgrades that Valley Transmission & Brake completed on our trans. Hopefully, this will give you an idea of what can be done to this popular tranny to ensure that you'll enjoy years of trouble-free performance both on- and off-highway.

We're thrilled with the performance of our rebuilt E40D. After several hundred miles of driving, we're compelled to say that the performance of the unit is very pleasing. And, as a bonus, we're enjoying cooler overall operating temperatures and the peace of mind that comes with knowing that many of the weak factory parts have been replaced with beefier components.

The E4OD

Great debate has raged over the E4OD and its potential for providing an adequate service life in a four-wheel-drive vehicle. To get the lowdown, we asked the pros. They told us that the unit is in fact quite reliable when rebuilt and beefed. The E4OD was introduced in 1989, and at that time it was Ford's first fully electronic transmission. Most transmission pros will agree that the early units were weak and unreliable, but the E4OD has seen many updates and changes since then, and these have increased its reliability. The E4OD is a very large and heavy transmission, and these factors keep it relegated to mostly light truck applications. Don't confuse the E4OD with the AOD transmission that was phased out of production in 1993 after a 13-year run.

In most cases you can save...        read full caption In most cases you can save yourself a few bucks by removing the transmission from the vehicle. Begin by disconnecting the front and rear driveshafts, and then drain the fluid from the transmission. With the transmission supported, you can remove the transmission crossmember and mount. Remove the transfer case and then disconnect the transmission shift linkage, transfer-case shifter bracket (shown), neutral safety switch, heat shield for electric connector and dipstick.	On the front of the transmission...        read full caption On the front of the transmission is a removable cover that allows access to the four torque-converter nuts holding the torque converter to the flywheel. Dinelli used a bump starter to turn the engine over so he could rotate the torque converter and access all of the nuts. After you remove the nuts, remove the six bellhousing bolts that hold the transmission to the engine (shown).	Remove the transmission-cooler...        read full caption Remove the transmission-cooler lines. Dinelli recommends flushing them out at this point to ensure that none of the old fluid and debris enters the new transmission.
Lower the transmission from...        read full caption Lower the transmission from the vehicle slowly and carefully.	With the transmission apart,...        read full caption With the transmission apart, we could see how some of the internal components were wearing. This is the shell that houses the sun gears. It was not only cracked, but it was also distorted. This is a normal wear item, and ours was definitely worn. Valley Transmission replaced the stock, stamped-steel sun shell with a beefier heat-treated steel unit from Transtar Industries.	Here you can see the stock...        read full caption Here you can see the stock rear sprag (left), which is made out of steel. The brass guides on this unit can cause damage to the race it rides on, so it was replaced with a plastic sprag from Transtar Industries that is stronger, longer lasting and won't damage the race.