Leaky fuel tanks are not only smelly and messy, they're also dangerous. This is why when both of the tanks in our 12-year-old F-150 began to emit the telltale odor of gasoline, we acted quickly to replace them. A quick inspection of the tanks confirmed that age, combined with a steady diet of salty Midwest winter roads, had caused them to corrode until the walls and seams were so thin that gasoline could seep through them. Not good for us, not good for the trail.
We contacted MTS Company in Dubuque, Iowa about its replacement polyethylene tanks for our '92 F-150. We chose polyethylene for a number of reasons (see sidebar), including the fact that they'll never rust. MTS has been producing polyethylene tanks since 1989 and they offer a variety of tanks for a number of different light trucks, Jeeps and SUVs. Our pair cost less than $300, so they're one of the most inexpensive mods we've done to the Redhead thus far. Our tanks were delivered in a couple of days, and each tank came complete with fuel pump lock ring and O-ring. MTS also offers straps and sending units for many applications as well.
The guys at Attitude Performance, project Fiery Redhead's official buildup shop, were only too happy to remove our rusty old tanks and replace them with the new MTS Company tanks. We're guessing it had something to do with the noxious fumes filling the shop. The swap took less than an hour per tank and solved a major problem. The following photos show the removal and reinstallation of the rear tank. Front tank removal and reinstallation is similar, so the steps won't be much different.
Here are the parts we had...
Here are the parts we had on hand to complete our fuel tank swap. Included are both front and rear MTS tanks, a pair of MTS front fuel-tank straps and a pair of Ford rear-tank lower straps. We also ordered two new sending units from Ford to have on hand in case our senders looked bad when we swapped them to the new tanks.
The first thing we did was...
The first thing we did was support the tank with a stand. We then removed the filler hose clamp at the body and both lower fuel tank straps. Our '92 F-150 uses upper and lower rear-fuel-tank straps, but it's only required to remove the lower straps. Straps are cheap, so plan on replacing the lower rear straps, as these tend to rust. The upper straps tend to be reusable, but they should be inspected for signs of rust or fatigue. The front fuel tank uses just a lower pair of straps to locate the tank.
Lower the tank slightly and...
Lower the tank slightly and unplug the electrical connector from the fuel pump/sending unit assembly, the inlet and outlet fuel lines and the vent tube.
Carefully lower the tank from...
Carefully lower the tank from the vehicle. Remove the fuel pump/sending unit, and the vent hose fixture.
Remove the clamps and O-ring...
Remove the clamps and O-ring from the new tank and install the pump/sending unit assembly into the new tank. Now is a good time to inspect your fuel pump and sending unit. Our pump worked fine and the sending unit looked to be in good shape so we reused them both.
Install the O-ring and clamps...
Install the O-ring and clamps that hold the fuel pump/sending unit assembly in place.
Reinstall the vent hose fixture...
Reinstall the vent hose fixture and the filler hose (shown) on the new tank. It's easier to reconnect the filler hose at the body than to reconnect it at the tank due to space constraints.
Lift the new tank into position....
Lift the new tank into position. Connect the wiring and fuel lines and the vent hose. Complete the install by bolting on the new straps.
The lowdown on polyethylene
If you're hesitant about installing a non-metal fuel tank in your rig, don't be. Over 70 percent of new trucks and SUVs come standard with some sort of plastic fuel tank. Clearly, the main benefit to a plastic tank is that there's no chance of rust scale inside or out. Worried about strength? This is where MTS Company's tanks excel. Its one-piece tanks are made of high-density cross-linking polyethylene.
This cross-linking process makes them 35 times stronger than non-cross-linked polyethylene. They won't crack, even at 150 degrees below zero, and the plastic offers a memory which enables them to bounce back after an impact. They weigh less than a comparable steel tank, they're UV-stabilized and the walls of MTS tanks are 1/4-inch thick, where most metal tanks are 1/8-inch thick.
Gettin' hitched
The stock trailer hitch on our F-150 was in the same rusty condition as the fuel tanks. The entire center of the hitch frame was gone and this made it useless. Since we had the rear fuel tank out of the vehicle, we saw a great opportunity to swap in a new hitch. We opted for a hot new unit from Mean Green Industries. It's manufactured from stainless steel, so we'll never have to worry about rust again-at least in this area. The class 3/4 unit is handmade in the USA and is designed to mount to the stock frame using the factory holes. Applications are available for most domestic and imported light trucks and SUVs. The hitch comes complete with Grade 8 mounting bolts, square-hole lock plates and instructions.
No chance for rust is the...
No chance for rust is the draw of the new Mean Green stainless-steel receiver hitch. This ensures that it will look as good down the road as it did when new. Clearly, this is a big plus for those who live in wintry locales.
The Mean Green stainless-steel...
The Mean Green stainless-steel hitch comes with new Grade 8 bolts and square-hole lock plates.
Our new hitch is flanked by...
Our new hitch is flanked by the new rear MTS Company tank. The beauty is that neither of these items will ever rust.