Our project '65 FJ-45, unceremoniously...
Our project '65 FJ-45, unceremoniously stripped. Our first step was to remove the stock manual steering box and exposed linkages, and replace it all with a more directly-routed power steering conversion.
What do you do when it looks like everyone in the world is having fun with Jeeps? If you love Toyotas, you show how easy it is to have the same fun, maybe more, with an old FJ. That was the idea when we came across an old FJ-45 with a dead Straight-Six and a few body dings.
In the future, we hope to get a passel of technical stories out of this vehicle: shortening the bed (basically turning our 45 into a 40), reconditioning the stock axles, and making this the most flexy leaf-spring setup on the planet. But for now, we'll settle for nailing down one issue common on lifted FJs-power steering.
Early Toyotas, FJ-40s through FJ-55s, used worm-and-roller steering gears. Great for forearm building; not so great for long, winding, tight trail climbing on big tires. We should note, this is not necessarily a driveway install without challenge. There is grinding, welding, and torch cutting required. Downey Off-Road showed us how to install the much-needed, AGR-prepped, GM Saginaw power steering conversion.
Because we've got plans for this FJ, we removed the engine, interior, and hood before starting the conversion (of course, this isn't necessary for the install). Our FJ had a column shifter (note the two shafts through the firewall) which we completely removed, planning to install a floor-mounted tranny lever later on. A floor shift would be necessary even if we planned to keep the factory tranny.
Here's the theory: Simply put, we're creating a more direct route for the steering linkage with U-joint and yokes, turning six tie-rod bushings into four, eliminating the less-efficient worm-and-roller box, and saving ourselves the obvious liabilities of exposed linkage in the left-front fenderwell. We're eliminating "middlemen" between the tires and steering wheel--specifically, two extra tie-rod ends and a bell crank.
The Downey kit uses relatively...
The Downey kit uses relatively few parts: a mounting bracket for the power steering box; a new steering shaft; a new tie-rod, yokes and U-joint; firewall anchor plate, pitman arm, tie-rod end; and the necessary fasteners. In some cases, some of the existing parts can be reused. The complete package of Downey parts will run around $455, with the AGR Saginaw 800 Series box running $295 (Super Box I) or $325 (Super Box II). The AGR Super P pump will cost about $147.
Taken from inside of the left-front...
Taken from inside of the left-front fenderwell, this photo offers a clear picture of how exposed the pitman arm and tie-rod are to outside objects. The support bracket to the frame-mounted steering box (and other center steering arm at the other end) are attached by steel rivets. These will take a lot of time to remove. With a good air hammer, grinder, and powerful drill, removing all the attachment points could take a full day.
Acting as the pivot point...
Acting as the pivot point for the non-power FJ setup, the secondary steering arm mounts to the inside of the frame and also needs to be disassembled, rivets removed, and set aside. This is the exact location where the new AGR Saginaw box will mount. This is a good time to check for any ripples or slight bends in the frame that may have occurred during previous stucks or bumper bashes.
Cut the stock steering column...
Cut the stock steering column and shaft free from the back of the stock steering box. The shaft and column will be reused, cut to custom lengths. To make things easier later, cut as close to the gear box as possible. With the boot, plates, brackets, and turn signal switch unplugged, the column should pull cleanly out. Reuse the stock boot and/or boot retainer plates to make firewall bolt patterns into the new Downey firewall anchor plate. With the column, box, pitman arm, fenderwell tie-rod, bell crank, and all the brackets removed, the truck is directionally impaired.
The supplied bronze column...
The supplied bronze column bushing and yoke are carefully measured so the proper new shaft length can be determined. Mark the steering column at least two inches from the weld cut and use a hacksaw to remove (do not cut the center shaft). With the firewall anchor plate slid in place, replace the steering wheel and steering column in its proper position, and loosely mount it. Slide the bushing into the column sleeve, then the yoke, and take a measurement as to how much more shaft or column needs cutting. Remove and cut as needed.
Once the proper lengths are...
Once the proper lengths are dialed in, the center shaft will need grinding to clean up to provide for the strongest possible weld. (Remember, the safety of your passengers will depend on how thorough you are at each step.) With the shaft measured, ground, and ready for welding, place the steering wheel face-down and covered on a protective pad. Then, with the firewall anchor plate slid onto the column and bronze sleeve pushed in, weld the shaft in place. Reinstall on the vehicle, tighten at the firewall and dash, and check for smooth turning operation. Some oil may be needed, but don't be surprised if there is stiffness until worn in a bit.