1965 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ 45 - Power Steering Swap

Our project '65 FJ-45, unceremoniously stripped. Our first step was to remove the stock manual steering box and exposed linkages, and replace it all with a more directly-routed power steering conversion.

Our project '65 FJ-45, unceremoniously stripped. Our first step was to remove the stock ma

What do you do when it looks like everyone in the world is having fun with Jeeps? If you love Toyotas, you show how easy it is to have the same fun, maybe more, with an old FJ. That was the idea when we came across an old FJ-45 with a dead Straight-Six and a few body dings.

In the future, we hope to get a passel of technical stories out of this vehicle: shortening the bed (basically turning our 45 into a 40), reconditioning the stock axles, and making this the most flexy leaf-spring setup on the planet. But for now, we'll settle for nailing down one issue common on lifted FJs-power steering.

Early Toyotas, FJ-40s through FJ-55s, used worm-and-roller steering gears. Great for forearm building; not so great for long, winding, tight trail climbing on big tires. We should note, this is not necessarily a driveway install without challenge. There is grinding, welding, and torch cutting required. Downey Off-Road showed us how to install the much-needed, AGR-prepped, GM Saginaw power steering conversion.

Because we've got plans for this FJ, we removed the engine, interior, and hood before starting the conversion (of course, this isn't necessary for the install). Our FJ had a column shifter (note the two shafts through the firewall) which we completely removed, planning to install a floor-mounted tranny lever later on. A floor shift would be necessary even if we planned to keep the factory tranny.

1965 Toyota Fj45 Steering Linkage Diagram

Here's the theory: Simply put, we're creating a more direct route for the steering linkage with U-joint and yokes, turning six tie-rod bushings into four, eliminating the less-efficient worm-and-roller box, and saving ourselves the obvious liabilities of exposed linkage in the left-front fenderwell. We're eliminating "middlemen" between the tires and steering wheel--specifically, two extra tie-rod ends and a bell crank.

The Downey kit uses relatively few parts: a mounting bracket for the power steering box; a new steering shaft; a new tie-rod, yokes and U-joint; firewall anchor plate, pitman arm, tie-rod end; and the necessary fasteners. In some cases, some of the existing parts can be reused. The complete package of Downey parts will run around $455, with the AGR Saginaw 800 Series box running $295 (Super Box I) or $325 (Super Box II). The AGR Super P pump will cost about $147.
The Downey kit uses relatively few parts: a mounting bracket for the power steering box; a
Taken from inside of the left-front fenderwell, this photo offers a clear picture of how exposed the pitman arm and tie-rod are to outside objects. The support bracket to the frame-mounted steering box (and other center steering arm at the other end) are attached by steel rivets. These will take a lot of time to remove. With a good air hammer, grinder, and powerful drill, removing all the attachment points could take a full day.
Taken from inside of the left-front fenderwell, this photo offers a clear picture of how e
Acting as the pivot point for the non-power FJ setup, the secondary steering arm mounts to the inside of the frame and also needs to be disassembled, rivets removed, and set aside. This is the exact location where the new AGR Saginaw box will mount. This is a good time to check for any ripples or slight bends in the frame that may have occurred during previous stucks or bumper bashes.
Acting as the pivot point for the non-power FJ setup, the secondary steering arm mounts to

Cut the stock steering column and shaft free from the back of the stock steering box. The shaft and column will be reused, cut to custom lengths. To make things easier later, cut as close to the gear box as possible. With the boot, plates, brackets, and turn signal switch unplugged, the column should pull cleanly out. Reuse the stock boot and/or boot retainer plates to make firewall bolt patterns into the new Downey firewall anchor plate. With the column, box, pitman arm, fenderwell tie-rod, bell crank, and all the brackets removed, the truck is directionally impaired.
Cut the stock steering column and shaft free from the back of the stock steering box. The
The supplied bronze column bushing and yoke are carefully measured so the proper new shaft length can be determined. Mark the steering column at least two inches from the weld cut and use a hacksaw to remove (do not cut the center shaft). With the firewall anchor plate slid in place, replace the steering wheel and steering column in its proper position, and loosely mount it. Slide the bushing into the column sleeve, then the yoke, and take a measurement as to how much more shaft or column needs cutting. Remove and cut as needed.
The supplied bronze column bushing and yoke are carefully measured so the proper new shaft
Once the proper lengths are dialed in, the center shaft will need grinding to clean up to provide for the strongest possible weld. (Remember, the safety of your passengers will depend on how thorough you are at each step.) With the shaft measured, ground, and ready for welding, place the steering wheel face-down and covered on a protective pad. Then, with the firewall anchor plate slid onto the column and bronze sleeve pushed in, weld the shaft in place. Reinstall on the vehicle, tighten at the firewall and dash, and check for smooth turning operation. Some oil may be needed, but don't be surprised if there is stiffness until worn in a bit.
Once the proper lengths are dialed in, the center shaft will need grinding to clean up to

The new straight-shot Borgeson shaft, U-joint, and yokes replace the Toyota manual zig-zag factory setup. The first step is to use the supplied shaft to determine where the crossmember hole needs to be to allow the splined slip-joint onto the Saginaw gear box input shaft. The shaft includes a certain amount of play (slip yoke travel) during frame flex on the trail.
The new straight-shot Borgeson shaft, U-joint, and yokes replace the Toyota manual zig-zag
The lower rpm circuit of the AGR-modified Saginaw box is specifically designed for off-highway and extreme four-wheeling situations (e.g., heavy slow-go trail use, big tires). The gear box needs to find a comfortable position against the frame to allow for the male-end input shaft and lower female slip yoke to join and turn without frame contact. Here, the exact center is marked with chalk. Our Super Box 2 has a variable turning ratio (17:1 to 13:1) for more all-around higher-speed pavement and/or lower-speed trail performance. For more hardcore applications, AGR has the Super Box 1, which gives a 16:1 turning ratio with valving set to low steering effort.
The lower rpm circuit of the AGR-modified Saginaw box is specifically designed for off-hig
Nothing less than an acetylene torch is practical to cut through a Toyota FJ frame. The inside wall hole of the boxed front crossmember will have to be at least two inches wider in diameter to accommodate the lower slip joint, as the gear box butts against the frame. In our FJ frame, a rear hole already exists. Before making any tack welds, C-clamp the box and measure the proper shaft lengths, U-joint included. All cuts should be smoothed inside and out, to eliminate the rough edges, then primed to help prevent rust. In addition, this is a good time to check motor-mount and other frame clearances. We had to cut away a piece of crossmember (top) to allow the lower slip joint to fit.
Nothing less than an acetylene torch is practical to cut through a Toyota FJ frame. The in

The key is to make sure all the measurements in shaft length allow for the lower slip joint to mount at the midpoint of its travel (spline length), not flush with the box. With the exact length determined, make a clean 360-degree top yoke weld and assemble the U-joint. Tighten the set screw of the bottom joint. Properly measured, the splined attachment points should have close to a full inch of travel during flexy trail twists-very necessary for what we have in mind. The final step is to fully weld the steering box bracket to the frame. Without an engine, we'll have to deal with pump issues down the road.
The key is to make sure all the measurements in shaft length allow for the lower slip join
The kit includes a 7-inch pitman arm, the standard choice for Saginaw gear boxes (3 1/8 turns lock-to-lock). The arm mounts to the gear box sector, then attaches to the supplied right-hand-thread tie-rod end. The new tie-rod can use the existing left-hand-thread Toyota rod end and mount right back to the factory steering linkages.
The kit includes a 7-inch pitman arm, the standard choice for Saginaw gear boxes (3 1/8 tu
The finished setup is easy to like: It's simple, clean, and performance is much improved. It's worth noting the our Saginaw box does not have internal stops, so the final step to a box-only install would be to make sure the steering stops are appropriately adjusted. Areas to watch out for when doing your own install (but which didn't cause us any problems at this stage) include motor-mount clearances, radiator mounting brackets, possible front grille notching, and aftermarket bumpers.
The finished setup is easy to like: It's simple, clean, and performance is much improved.