Chevy Tahoe X-Pak Install - Four Wheeler Magazine

One of the first mods we make to our rigs very often involves a suspension lift and a set of larger, more aggressive tires. This combination gives us more ground clearance, better approach and departure angles, and improved traction. And, of course, the result makes our rigs look better.

This is the complete X-Pak as delivered. Four Mickey Thompson tires and six-lug wheels, a complete RCD 6-inch suspension system and four Bilstein 5100 Series shock absorbers.
This is the complete X-Pak as delivered. Four Mickey Thompson tires and six-lug wheels, a
Before
After

RCD Suspension and Mickey Thompson Performance Tires have announced a new cross-promotion that they call the Extreme Makeover for Trucks, which features kits called X-Paks. Each X-Pak offers packaged wheels, tires and suspension components to consumers and dealers. The benefits of this deal are twofold: Simplicity in ordering and substantial dollar savings.

We wanted to experience the X-Pak for ourselves so we ordered a kit for our '99 Chevy Tahoe. With the included RCD 6-inch suspension system, we had our choice of either 33- or 35-inch Mickey Thompson Baja Radial MTX or Baja Claw tires. Wheel choices included either M/T Classic II or M/T Classic Lock wheels. We chose the 35-inch MTX radials and M/T Classic Lock wheels. It was as easy as that. Street price of the kit is $2,929. Purchased separately, the lift, tires and wheels would have cost $3,130, for a savings on this kit of $201.

We had all of the components shipped to Attitude Performance in Arlington Heights, Illinois, and then we hung out while the crew at Attitude transformed our Tahoe from a boring stocker to a more capable attention-getter. RCD recommends that a professional mechanic install this kit. Special tools are required for the safe removal and installation of the ball joints, tie rods and torsion bars. What follows will give you an overview of some of the parts and steps that went in to our Tahoe's 10-hour makeover.

After disassembling the front suspension, we disconnected the front driveshaft from the differential yoke and secured it out of the way. We then disconnected the electrical connector and vent hose from the differential assembly. Using a cutting tool (not a cutting torch), we removed the rear lower-differential mount bracket, plus an additional inch of the frame supporting the bracket. This is done to provide clearance for the lower control-arm frame mount.
After disassembling the front suspension, we disconnected the front driveshaft from the di
Support the front differential assembly, remove the upper mounting hardware and passenger-side axle hardware, and then slowly remove the differential from the vehicle.
Support the front differential assembly, remove the upper mounting hardware and passenger-
With the differential out of the vehicle, we welded a new frame cap in where we cut out the rear lower differential-mount bracket. We filed all sharp edges smooth and then painted the cap black to match the frame.
With the differential out of the vehicle, we welded a new frame cap in where we cut out th

The upper mount on the differential housing needs to be cut off to provide room for the new RCD bracketry.
The upper mount on the differential housing needs to be cut off to provide room for the ne
The first step in reassembly is to install the bushings into the differential support bracket and attach the differential support bracket to the front differential (support bracket shown on right). RCD notes that differential housings may vary, and it may be necessary to grind the outside edge of the bracket to fit. Install the differential drop bracket to the differential axle (drop bracket shown on left).
The first step in reassembly is to install the bushings into the differential support brac
The new front crossmember installs into the existing front lower control-arm mounting pockets using the factory hardware.
The new front crossmember installs into the existing front lower control-arm mounting pock

The Lowdown on the Lift Kit
When RCD Suspension introduced this 6-inch suspension system in October 2001, it was unique in that it was the first subframe-and-spindle system on the market for the "old-body-style" six-lug Chevy/GMC pickup, Suburban and four-door Tahoes and Yukons. The benefits of this system include fewer frame modifications and utilization of the factory steering system components. The kit comes with a new lower subframe, CNC-machined replacement steering knuckles, front differential relocation brackets, billet steel antiroll-bar links, extended stainless-steel braided front brake lines, Bilstein 5100 Series shocks, rear lift blocks and all required hardware.

Reinstall the front differential using the factory hardware. The rear crossmember installs into the existing rear lower control-arm mounting pockets also using factory hardware. With the rear crossmember installed, the rear driver-side mounting bolt can be installed. At this point, the differential is measured to ensure that it's mounted square in the frame. Reconnect the differential vent hose and the electrical connector and tighten all differential hardware.
Reinstall the front differential using the factory hardware. The rear crossmember installs
The factory lower control arms are installed into the new RCD crossmembers using the cam bolts that are provided in the kit.
The factory lower control arms are installed into the new RCD crossmembers using the cam b
There are frame-bracket knockouts on the upper control-arm frames. They need to be removed so the upper control-arm alignment tabs can be installed against the upper control-arm frame-mounting brackets. These alignment tabs fix the upper control arms in place. Alignment is then made with the lower control arms. After this is completed, the upper control arms are installed.
There are frame-bracket knockouts on the upper control-arm frames. They need to be removed

Reinstall the front driveshaft to the differential and reinstall the drive axles to the differential after placing the new drive-axle spacers between the differential flange and the axle (shown). In some applications, the exhaust crossover pipe may need to be modified to clear the front driveshaft.
Reinstall the front driveshaft to the differential and reinstall the drive axles to the di
The RCD kit comes with new spindles, so the ball joints, hub and bearing assembly and splash shield are transferred from the old to the new spindles. Install the new spindle assemblies, as well as the new longer brake lines with crush washers that are provided with the kit. Install the brake rotors and caliper assemblies.
The RCD kit comes with new spindles, so the ball joints, hub and bearing assembly and spla
A pair of RCD compression struts strengthens the taller front suspension. The front of the struts fasten to a pair of brackets that mount to existing holes in the transmission crossmember, which are drilled out slightly larger, while the rear of the struts fasten to mounts that are installed on a rear frame crossmember (rear mount shown).
A pair of RCD compression struts strengthens the taller front suspension. The front of the

The final step for the front end is the addition of torsion-bar drop brackets, which mount to the outside of the frame and allow the factory torsion-bar bracket to be lowered to compensate for the increased lift. The torsion bars are then reinstalled.
The final step for the front end is the addition of torsion-bar drop brackets, which mount
The rear of the vehicle is lifted via new rear 4-inch spacer blocks. The kit comes with the blocks, U-bolts, brake-line extension bracket, bumpstops and Bilstein shocks to round out the rear components. To conclude the install, bolt on the wheels and tires and lower the vehicle to the ground so the lower control arm to the front and rear crossmember pivot nuts can be tightened. With the weight of the vehicle on the suspension, you can now install the front antiroll-bar extensions. The final step is to have the vehicle aligned.
The rear of the vehicle is lifted via new rear 4-inch spacer blocks. The kit comes with th

On the trail
The off-highway benefits gained by the increased ground clearance include improved ramp-over angle as well as approach/departure angle, which makes a dramatic difference in where our Tahoe can go. A slight amount of trimming of the lower valance was required to allow the front tires to travel completely. The new Bilstein shocks are a remarkable improvement over the factory dampers, and their valving allows them to soak up the sharp impacts on both trail and road without transferring the shock to the passengers.

The M/T Baja Radial MTX tires are amazingly quiet on pavement, yet offer a vast improvement in dirt traction. They seem to work well in everything except mud, which is no surprise because of their all-terrain-type tread design. The M/T Classic Lock wheels show excellent craftsmanship and have been trouble-free, though the simulated beadlock ring does lack drain holes, so a fair amount of water gets trapped in gaps between the ring and the wheel.

We didn't opt for the available add-a-leaf for the rear springs, and we now wish we had, because the rear of the vehicle sits just slightly lower than the front. The addition of the lift blocks has also amplified some axle wrap issues that we're having with our high-mileage factory rear springs. We believe that these two issues are related to the tired factory springs, but it's something for you to consider if your truck is older and still has the factory leaves.

We really like the fact that the RCD lift components come in basic black, as they matched our truck's black/silver exterior. Up front, the kit gained us 8 1/2 inches of height, for a total of 21 inches from the valance to the ground, while at the rear we gained 5 1/4 inches, for a total of 25 inches from the bottom of the bumper to the ground. Finally, we have a decent 15 inches of clearance between the bottom of the center-mounted RCD torsion-bar lowering bracket and the ground.