Axles & Gears Our modified Dana 44 had served us well, but the time had come to upgrade to a front axle that would provide even more strength for turning big tires and moving a fullsize rig through the rocks. We made the obvious choice to stuff a Dana 60 in its place. The goal for this build was to complete a front axle while adding some upgrades along the way to make it sturdier than a stock Dana 60, without breaking the bank. Except for the gear and locker setup, we also wanted to try to build the entire axle with common tools you might have in your home shop, thus saving on some labor costs. We sourced a crusty, used axle from an '83 Chevy 1-ton truck. Since the rig this axle was headed for is a Blazer-based rockcrawler, we could use the full-width axlehousing as-is, and the differential was also in the correct position. As such, no housing modifications were necessary. We simply tore down the salvage axle and cleaned and painted it in preparation of the build. Rebuild parts such as seals, bearings, and so on are commonly available from a variety of sources and, as usual, would be inspected and replaced as needed during such a build. Follow along as we show you the steps to assembling and fortifying our front drive axle. Dynatrac steel-plate steering arms were acquired for this build. These beefy arms come ready to bolt on the knuckles for crossover steering. Our rig uses rod ends for the tie-rod and drag link, so our arms came undrilled. Once we get the axle installed, we'll mark and drill the needed holes for the rod-end bolts.Dynatrac steel-plate steering arms were acquired for this build. These beefy arms come rea This axle was going on a Blazer-based crawling rig that was already running six-lug bead-lock wheels. We decided to stick with those, so we ordered a Dynatrac Pro 60 six-lug hub kit. It retains the use of fullsize Dana 60 shafts and components, and each kit includes a hub, a rotor, a caliper assembly with pads, a caliper bracket, bearings, races, and an inner seal. The kit is also offered in 5-on-511/42, 8-on-611/42, and 8-on-170mm bolt patterns.This axle was going on a Blazer-based crawling rig that was already running six-lug bead-l Warn drive flanges were chosen for simplicity and strength. The outer covers add a little bling to the hub bodies as well.Warn drive flanges were chosen for simplicity and strength. The outer covers add a little Bypassing use of the usual OEM-style U-joints, we went straight to the fortified OX joints. These massive joints offer a significant increase in strength over the stock-type units. The design utilizes a large hardened steel center body and large bushings at each rotating point.Bypassing use of the usual OEM-style U-joints, we went straight to the fortified OX joints An ARB Air Locker was the differential choice for the front axle. These units have proven to be stout and reliable, and the option to lock and unlock the front axle provides the best combination of locking action with the ability to steer easily when unlocked.An ARB Air Locker was the differential choice for the front axle. These units have proven Inner axle seals, an ARB, and 4.88:1 gears were installed in the freshly cleaned axlehousing. We won't rehash those details here. Suffice it to say that you'll need a few specialty tools and some gear setup knowledge to tackle the install (see "Axle Gear Swaps," page 64 for more details), or let someone experienced in gear installs do it for you. Here you can see where one of the carrier-bearing caps is notched (arrow) to allow routing of the copper air line out to a fitting on the housing.Inner axle seals, an ARB, and 4.88:1 gears were installed in the freshly cleaned axlehousi With the gear setup and ARB line routing complete, the gear housing cover was installed. You can now purchase any number of aftermarket armored front covers. Fellow wheeler Damion Bustamante built us this rockguard using solid steel rod.With the gear setup and ARB line routing complete, the gear housing cover was installed. Y Here's where we started with the bare ends of the housing. You can see the tapered kingpin that the knuckle mates to. These pins are replaceable. Ours were in fine shape for reuse.Here's where we started with the bare ends of the housing. You can see the tapered kingpin The lower kingpin bearing was greased and installed. Then the rubber seal was tapped into the lower portion of the inner knuckle. Bearings and races should be replaced if worn.The lower kingpin bearing was greased and installed. Then the rubber seal was tapped into The lower bearing cap was installed on the bottom of the knuckle and secured with four bolts.The lower bearing cap was installed on the bottom of the knuckle and secured with four bol The tapered bushing was greased and dropped into the top of the knuckle and mated to the kingpin. These bushings have a split cut to allow them to slip in and form a snug fit when all the hardware is tightened down.The tapered bushing was greased and dropped into the top of the knuckle and mated to the k The seal was slipped onto the upper kingpin, and the outer knuckle was installed onto the inner knuckle.The seal was slipped onto the upper kingpin, and the outer knuckle was installed onto the Next comes the compression spring and retainer that sit on top of the tapered bushing. Finally, the knuckle assembly is complete with the addition of the steering arm and four new bolts.Finally, the knuckle assembly is complete with the addition of the steering arm and four n Here is the complete short-side axle assembly with the inner and outer Yukon hardened-alloy axleshafts and the OX joint installed. With this setup, it's got 35 splines on both ends, whereas stock outer axles are only 30-spline pieces.Here is the complete short-side axle assembly with the inner and outer Yukon hardened-allo In order to install the retaining caps in the OX joint, it is sometimes necessary to clearance the axle yokes a bit. We had a slight interference when trying to install the retaining caps, so we used a grinder to remove a little of the inner yoke material as needed. The retaining caps allow for a clipless U-joint design.In order to install the retaining caps in the OX joint, it is sometimes necessary to clear It was time to install the axleshafts in the housing. They slipped right in and we were halfway through the whole assembly process.It was time to install the axleshafts in the housing. They slipped right in and we were ha In order for the calipers to fit properly, it was necessary to clearance the spindle flange and the dustshield by removing a crescent area as shown by the arrows here. A handheld angle grinder made quick work of this.In order for the calipers to fit properly, it was necessary to clearance the spindle flang With the axleshafts installed in the housing, it was time to install the spindle on the outer knuckle. The stock spindle was reused, as was the original mounting hardware.With the axleshafts installed in the housing, it was time to install the spindle on the ou The Dynatrac-supplied caliper bracket installs directly on the spindle flange using the six spindle studs.The Dynatrac-supplied caliper bracket installs directly on the spindle flange using the si Next came the dustshield and the nuts for the six spindle studs. Check the spindle to be sure the seal surface is smooth and that the threads on the end are undamaged.Next came the dustshield and the nuts for the six spindle studs. Check the spindle to be s Bearing races, greased bearings and the rear seal were installed in the new Dynatrac six-lug wheel hub. It was then slid onto the spindle. The hub uses standard truck wheel bearings and seals commonly available at any auto parts store, and it accepts all standard manual-locking Dana 60 front internal-style hubs.Bearing races, greased bearings and the rear seal were installed in the new Dynatrac six-l The spindle thrust washer and nut were installed and snugged to set the wheel-bearing preload. Next, the hub drive gear and retention hardware were put into the wheel hub.The spindle thrust washer and nut were installed and snugged to set the wheel-bearing prel The outer hub cover from the Warn hub set buttoned up the wheel hub. With the drive flanges in place, there are no locking hubs to disengage. Sharp steering can be accomplished by turning off the Air Locker. The caps are low-profile and will tuck further into the front wheels than standard locking hubs.The outer hub cover from the Warn hub set buttoned up the wheel hub. With the drive flange The Dynatrac hub kits come with calipers, complete with installed pads. These slip onto the spindle-mounted bracket and secure with the supplied bolts. These calipers are the same as those used on our Dana 44, so the brake lines will bolt right up.The Dynatrac hub kits come with calipers, complete with installed pads. These slip onto th Here's a photo of the completed wheel hub assembly and caliper setup. The wheel studs on these hubs are 1/2 inch, a bit larger than the 7/16-inch ones on the Dana 44. New lug nuts will be required.Here's a photo of the completed wheel hub assembly and caliper setup. The wheel studs on t After installing all the components on the opposite side, the axle was complete and ready for installation. Once the steering-rod locations are checked, the steering arms will be drilled to accept the rod-end bolts. Other than the gear setup, the axle assembly only took several hours and was completed using only common shop tools. FWAfter installing all the components on the opposite side, the axle was complete and ready SOURCES Randy's Ring & Pinion (Yukon Gear) www.ring-pinion.com Dynatrac Warn Industries Inc. www.warn.com OX www.ox-usa.com ARB 4x4 Accessories N/A www.arbusa.com Enjoyed this Post? Subscribe to our RSS Feed, or use your favorite social media to recommend us to friends and colleagues!
