Trailer Towing Tips Problem And Solution - Knowing Towing

Your day in court is not going well.

Your insurance company has run for cover, saying they had no idea you habitually operated in violation of state law.

The manufacturer, also named in the case, sends a team of seven lawyers who take no responsibility for equipment failure, blame you, say you were warned, that you were negligent, that it was all your fault, and certainly none of theirs.

The plaintiff's attorney brings the victim into court in his wheelchair, and easily wins the case.

The judge slams his gavel, and the opposing lawyer files paperwork to attach your house, your car, your retirement fund and force you to spend the next 20 years paying restitution.

Then you wake up. You're OK...thank heaven.

Actually, this nightmare scenario is not so farfetched. Whenever you tow something, a whole new set of laws, rules, standards and requirements take effect, and whether you realize it or not, it's your legal responsibility to operate within them. Requirements vary from state to state; equipment varies from trailer to trailer, capability varies from truck to truck. The one constant is that when something goes wrong, they can throw the book at you.

We've all rationalized towing a load using an inadequate truck or trailer by saying "It's not very far" or "I'll just go really slow" or "I think it will be OK". You get used to doing it, and one day you decide to go a little farther, a little faster, and boom!, you just cost yourself a lot of money.

Problem #1:
You Have No Idea What Your Truck Is Actually Rated To Tow
Maybe you bought it from a guy who said it "oughta be able to tow that." Maybe you're going by what the salesman in the dealership told you. Or maybe you never checked the owner's manual to pin down which version of the hundreds of different pickup truck models you have, and what that means in terms of rated capacities. Maybe you've seen other people towing something that looks like your load using a truck that looks just like yours. Unfortunately, when it comes to towing on public roads, ignorance is not bliss.

What To Do:
First step, check the Vehicle ID sticker on the inside of the driver-side door jamb. It will say what the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) is, how much weight the front axle can carry, and how much the rear axle can carry. It also specifies the exact tires you must use, the exact wheel, and the exact psi the tire pressure must be.

Usually, the numbers on the door are much less than the numbers bandied about in sales literature. When the ad says your truck can tow 10,000 pounds, there is a little asterisk there, which says "when properly equipped."

You'll have to check the owner's manual to find out what "properly equipped" actually is from the manufacturer's point of view. There you will find charts that show all the different variations of the truck you own, and what they can handle. Look up the Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR), the Gross Trailer Weight rating (GTWR), and recommended tongue weight, given the type of hitch you are using. (This information, if you have lost the Owner's Manual, is usually available at the manufacturer's website.)

That will tell you how heavy a trailer you can tow, how much cargo you can put in the tow vehicle, and how much tongue weight your combination can handle, and what hitch you must use. Bottom line, the number is probably less than you think.

Problem #2:
You Have No Idea What Your Trailer Or Truck Actually Weighs
Actually, hardly anyone knows what the weight of their trailer is, or how much all their gear weighs. Chances are, it's more than you think, meaning it's likely you are overloaded in some way or other. Remember, the weight of everything in your tow vehicle--passengers, food, tools, and gear--takes away from the amount of trailer weight you can safely manage. You'd be surprised how much weight a pickup truck can gain when a party of four heads out camping.

What to Do:
This is easy--just go to the certified truck scales. You can find them in the phone book or on the web. When you get there, talk to the scales operator so he understands you want to get a weight of the trailer alone (gross trailer weight); plus the weight of the truck alone (gross vehicle weight), plus the weight of the combination (gross combined weight). That's three weights. That will be a hassle, and you might need some help to unhook the trailer on the scale, but it will be well worth the exercise. Should cost you around $15, and you'll be done in 10 minutes.

The good part about weighing your trailer, aside from being safe, is you now have certified proof that you are operating within the recommended weight limits. In a court of law, that's a good thing. It's also a good thing in case your transmission goes south, or an axle burns up, for warranty purposes.

Obviously, when you go weigh your trailer, have all your gear inside. If it's a boat, that means all your camping gear, fuel, spare prop, fresh battery, skis, fishing tackle, safety gear, drinking water--all of it.

Problem #3:
Equipment Combinations Affect Tow Ability
Sounds stupid, but reading the owner's manual is not as easy as it sounds. Tow ratings for every truck vary by body type, engine, transmission, drive system, even the weight of the options. As an example, take the case of the Suzuki Equator, rated to tow 6,500 pounds. By checking the owner's manual, you will see it indeed can handle 6,500 pounds, but only the V-6 powered, Extended Cab, 4x2 Equator, with the automatic transmission and Sport package. All others are rated to tow less, and in some combinations, much less. A four-cylinder 4x2 Equator, with the manual transmission, is rated to tow 3,500 pounds, no more. This is not at all unusual--the maximum tow rating usually applies to a very narrow range of configurations.

What to do:
Check the fine print in your owner's manual to find out what the rating is for your exact model. There will be a chart that helps you sort through the different variations to find your actual capacity.