Low-Buck Dana 44 Axle Build

Low Buck Axle Build Ford Bronco Dana 44 Front Axle

Here’s the subject of our affection after it was pulled out from underneath the ’78 Bronco. If you look closely, you can see the broken U-joint in the passenger-side knuckle (foreground).

Here’s the subject of our affection after it was pulled out from underneath the ’78 Bronco

The traditional-spindle Dana 44 front axle has been used in 4x4s since the ’60s, and the Dana 44 center section has managed to find its way in everything from Jeeps, to Fords and Dodges, and even, believe it or not, the Nissan Titan. Part of that popularity comes from the fact that these axles are reliable, relatively simple, and easy to work on.

So when we rescued an old ’78 Bronco that had been abandoned in a field, it was no surprise to find the original Dana 44 front axle underneath. It seems that the Dana 44 was also the reason the Bronco was abandoned in the first place: A broken U-joint in the passenger-side axleshaft probably made the unit practically undrivable even in two-wheel drive.

Fortunately, a Dana 44 isn’t too difficult to rebuild. And with the many thousands of units on the road, and in the junkyards, it isn’t too hard, or expensive, to find quality used replacement parts, either. We’re trying to get the Bronco back on the road complete with a few improvements without spending crazy amounts of cash, so the plan is to put the Dana 44 back together in stock form and get moving to other things on the to-do list.

The flopping axle beat up the bearings and seals pretty badly, so Randy’s Ring & Pinion put together a kit with all the consumables for the old Dana including bearings, races, seals, ball joints, and new U-joints. Next, a quick search on eBay scored us a used axleshaft out of Utah for $90. It wasn’t pretty, but compared to the going rate of $200 or more for a new OEM replacement, we could deal with a little grunge.

Rebuilding a Dana 44 is relatively simple. We do recommend a hydraulic press to remove the pressed-in ball joints along with a bearing puller, but otherwise, everything else can be accomplished with simple hand tools. Follow along and see for yourself.

It is possible to rebuild the Dana differential with it still under the truck, but we chose to fully strip the frame of our 4x4 to have it blasted and powdercoated, so the axle was removed. The first step in the teardown is to pull the locking hub caps and disassemble the locking hub, beginning with the large clip that holds the selector in place. It’s a good idea to take pictures of each step to help you remember exactly how things go back together during reassembly.
It is possible to rebuild the Dana differential with it still under the truck, but we chos
Two hub nuts sandwich a locking plate to keep the hub in place. It’s best to purchase the specialized socket to remove the nuts. Using an old screwdriver or chisel and hammer to spin the nuts on or off can cause damage and put metal chips in the wheel bearings.
Two hub nuts sandwich a locking plate to keep the hub in place. It’s best to purchase the
Once the hub and brake rotor is off, the spindle, brake caliper bracket, and backing cover are all revealed. Remove the nuts from the spindle to remove the entire assembly from the steering knuckle.
Once the hub and brake rotor is off, the spindle, brake caliper bracket, and backing cover

Time, abuse, and rust had caused practically everything to bond together in one iron lump. Eventually, after a lot of penetrating fluid and a little hammer persuasion, the spindle, caliper bracket, and backing cover all came off together. The axles slide right out at this point.
Time, abuse, and rust had caused practically everything to bond together in one iron lump.
To get the steering knuckle off, first remove the two nuts securing them to the end forging. Then give the knuckle a couple of hard hits with a rubber mallet and it should pop right off.
To get the steering knuckle off, first remove the two nuts securing them to the end forgin
Once the steering hardware on either end was stripped, we pulled the center cover to take a look at the center chunk. The bearings and races must be replaced, but the gears, thankfully, show no signs of damage or rust from water in the housing. We’ll keep them and put the savings toward the new bearings.
Once the steering hardware on either end was stripped, we pulled the center cover to take

With everything torn apart we took the salvageable pieces to be sandblasted. Be sure not to blast the bearing surfaces. Thoroughly clean out all the grit from the housing and other components.
With everything torn apart we took the salvageable pieces to be sandblasted. Be sure not t
This may be the ugliest $90 we’ve ever spent, but the axleshaft you are looking at represents less than half the cost of an OEM replacement. A quick eBay search turned up Ventures Truck Parts & Equipment, which specializes in used 4x4 drivetrain components. The company handled yanking the part we needed and shipping it; we were obviously left with the duty of cleaning it up.
This may be the ugliest $90 we’ve ever spent, but the axleshaft you are looking at represe
Jim Cook of Jim Cook Racing Transmissions specializes in racing and handles gears and transmissions for several NASCAR Nationwide and Truck Series race teams, but he also works with 4x4 drivelines. Here, he uses a bearing puller to remove the carrier bearings from the differential.
Jim Cook of Jim Cook Racing Transmissions specializes in racing and handles gears and tran

The Dana 44 uses shims to set the ring gear backlash. If you aren’t replacing the ring-and-pinion, you can simply put the shims back and keep the setting where it was. The process of setting backlash by adding and removing shims can be time consuming and tedious, so avoid the possibility of getting your shim packs mixed up by taping them together and labeling them as soon as they come out of the housing.
The Dana 44 uses shims to set the ring gear backlash. If you aren’t replacing the ring-and
New bearings, and those shim packs we just mentioned, are pushed into place on the hydraulic press. If you don’t have access to a press, it might be best to hire this job out. However, careful hammering and the correct-sized tubing can be used to drive the bearings into place.
New bearings, and those shim packs we just mentioned, are pushed into place on the hydraul
Part of the consumables kit we got from Randy’s Ring and Pinion included new Spicer U-joints. They are higher quality than standard parts-store stuff. Hopefully we will be able to avoid another broken U-joint and axle.
Part of the consumables kit we got from Randy’s Ring and Pinion included new Spicer U-join

The axles ride on Torrington-style bearings pressed inside the spindles. They can be a pain to get out, so Cook uses a die grinder to carefully cut away the cage. Once he’s cut through, the bearing will pop right out.
The axles ride on Torrington-style bearings pressed inside the spindles. They can be a pai
The new bearings are pressed in with light taps from a hammer on a properly sized socket that matches the outside diameter of the spindle bearings. Don’t forget to grease the new bearings.
The new bearings are pressed in with light taps from a hammer on a properly sized socket t
Cook always applies plenty of assembly lube to all roller bearings before reassembly. This reduces the chance of a bearing getting too hot before the gear oil can work its way into the bearings the first time the truck runs again. You may also notice plenty of grease on the pinion shims. Lubrication isn’t necessary here; the grease simply keeps the shims stuck in place while Cook drops the pinion into position in the housing.
Cook always applies plenty of assembly lube to all roller bearings before reassembly. This

Randy’s Ring & Pinion also has new axle seal kits. This hard plastic doughnut is part of the kit and only goes on one way. Make sure the chamfered edge goes down against the flange on the outer axles
Randy’s Ring & Pinion also has new axle seal kits. This hard plastic doughnut is part of t
Another C-shaped seal fits inside the spindle. In this case, make sure the concave side of the seal points in toward the spindle to help hold the bearing grease in.
Another C-shaped seal fits inside the spindle. In this case, make sure the concave side of
Take a moment to test fit everything to make sure you have the ball joints in the right places. The ball joint with the provision for a cotter pin goes in the top of the end forging pointing upward. (The housing is upside down in this photo.)
Take a moment to test fit everything to make sure you have the ball joints in the right pl

The ball joints only press in from one direction. Once in, retaining clips are installed to make sure they won’t back out later.
The ball joints only press in from one direction. Once in, retaining clips are installed t
When installing the steering knuckles the lower ball joint nuts have to be tightened to spec first. It can be difficult to tighten the nuts sufficiently if the ball joints want to spin in their sockets. Cook shows how to overcome this by using a large pair of pliers to squeeze the knuckle against the end forging on the housing to compress the ball joint so it won’t spin. Once the lower ball joints are tight you can install the upper ball joint seats and tighten them and the upper ball joint nuts to spec.
When installing the steering knuckles the lower ball joint nuts have to be tightened to sp
Before installing the center chunk, make sure to install new inner housing seals if necessary. Many people will skip this step, but if the housing is torn down this far it only makes sense to install new seals here while you have the chance.
Before installing the center chunk, make sure to install new inner housing seals if necess

With the inner housing seals in place, Cook gently lowers the center chunk into the housing. Notice that the races are held onto the bearings with a generous amount of assembly grease. If you don’t do this the races always seem to pop off and go rolling around the shop floor at the worst times.
With the inner housing seals in place, Cook gently lowers the center chunk into the housin
Because of the shims used to control lash, the center chunk is a bit of a press fit into the housing. Cook uses a hammer and a blunt chisel to nudge things along. Only use the chisel on the cast carrier case, not the bearing races or the ring gear. A brass or deadblow hammer also works well.
Because of the shims used to control lash, the center chunk is a bit of a press fit into t
Grease the splines of the axleshafts to help prevent damage to the inner housing seals. Slide the axles into place through the hole in the knuckles. Make sure the splines index into the differential properly and all the way.
Grease the splines of the axleshafts to help prevent damage to the inner housing seals. Sl

Next to go on are the caliper brackets and spindles. The bolts on some Dana 44 steering knuckles are irregularly spaced so that the bracket can only go on one way. This ensures that the caliper is clocked so that the calipers will be properly located.
Next to go on are the caliper brackets and spindles. The bolts on some Dana 44 steering kn
Properly pack the wheel bearings with high-temperature disc brake grease. You can do this by hand by slapping the bearing in a wad of grease in your palm or you can use a bearing packer.
Properly pack the wheel bearings with high-temperature disc brake grease. You can do this
Install and adjust the wheel bearing nuts to spec and check that the rotating assembly is not binding or loose and sloppy.
Install and adjust the wheel bearing nuts to spec and check that the rotating assembly is

This lock disc sandwiches between the two hub nuts and has a tab that slides down a groove cut along the length of the spindle. One of the hub nuts on each side has a pin. It should go on first with the pin pointing outward. Keep adjusting the nut so that the pin fits into one of the holes on the lock disc once it is slid into place. Now thread on the second hub nut and tighten it down with the proper tool. Finish it off by installing the locking hubs.
This lock disc sandwiches between the two hub nuts and has a tab that slides down a groove
We didn’t even bother trying to track down a gasket for the cover. A quick bead of silicone works just as well, if not better.
We didn’t even bother trying to track down a gasket for the cover. A quick bead of silicon
Here’s the completed axle back underneath the Bronco frame. Don’t forget to fill it with oil. We still have a long way to go, but at least we’ve gotten one more thing scratched off the to-do list.
Here’s the completed axle back underneath the Bronco frame. Don’t forget to fill it with o

SOURCES
Ventures Truck Parts & Equipment 801-621-0091 www.venturesparts.com	Jim Cook Racing Transmissions Charlotte NC 704-786-6979
Randy's Ring & Pinion (Yukon Gear) 10411 Airport Road SE Everett WA 98204 866-631-0196 www.ringpinion.com