Leaving the B-pillar panel hanging towards the center of the vehicle per instructions, bottom still attached, isn't a good idea, however, as the panel can tweak the doorsill cover. On the other side, we pried the rearmost doorsill clip loose and removed the panel completely, which gave more working space and saved the doorsill.
We'd also learned our lesson from the door speakers and didn't drill for the included Phillips screws. Self-tapping screws of roughly the same size were far quicker to install and didn't produce any more metal shavings than did drilling. Also, we never even came close to putting a screwdriver through the speaker when using hex-headed self-tappers, and they go right through the foam tubs.
Was the result worth $160? Yes, the sound quality improved dramatically, but Jingo still didn't sound right. It's the bass that's weak, so we'll try putting foam buckets behind the front speakers, too, before spending another $150 or so on a better head unit. At this point, the system acts a bit like a motor with a hi-po exhaust and a clogged air filter. It just doesn't work right yet.
Upcoming Attractions
As mentioned last month, those ineffective taillights could use an upgrade before somebody runs into the back of our little pickup because they couldn't see the blinkers, and we found several ways to fix that. And speaking of little, a regular cab feels awfully puny when you're used to Crew Cabs-there's just not much room for things. We'll have to create more room inside, and make the bed able to accommodate some "indoor" items as well. Also, different rear shocks may help minimize the effects of towing a trailer, and it should make the Silverado feel less like a '60s Buick at speed. It's sure starting to look as if the vehicle we wanted to change as little as possible on is getting quite a few tweaks after all.
While probably adequate for AM talk radio, the factory speakers were replaced with superior Kenwood units. Prying the interior apart (removing only four screws) to get to the B-pillar speakers was made possible by the included Crutchfield instructions. The speakers were unclipped (!) and the factory wiring connectors pulled off. Then it was only a matter of connecting the Crutchfield adapter to the factory connector, pushing the speaker end of the adapter wiring through the foam tub, setting the tub into the B-pillar, and securing the new 4x6 speakers.
An assortment of Valley Industries products were picked to cover the towing needs. On top is a pintle hook (PN 69950) bolted to a pintle-hook adapter (PN 69900), rated at 5 1/2 tons and 9,000 pounds, respectively. Overkill, yes, but most of our trailers have tow rings rather than regular couplers, and pintle-hook stuff doesn't come in really light-duty versions. A ball mount (PN 75900) with a 1-inch rise works with the Adapt Hitch Ball set (PN 51810) to the right, which comes with 1 7/8-, 2-, and 2 5/16-inch balls. This setup works well because the hex-shaped shaft eliminates stress on the pin that holds the ball in place, and it's rated up to 8,000 pounds. At the lower left is a very nice hitch pin lock (PN 75740) that appears tamperproof, while the beautifully simple Perma Pin (PN 75720) next to it works great when theft isn't an issue. The Perma Pin can't come undone once the end piece is turned 90 degrees, plus it has no clip to lose.