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Keeping Your Cool: Cooling System Tech

We Keep You Out Of Hot Water

By Cole Quinnell

Blowing off steam can be fun, unless it’s your engine that’s blowing the steam. Many people view a cooling system as a necessary evil, building the rest of your 4x4 with cool parts and then dealing with an overheating problem. But being nervous with an engine that tends to run hot takes the fun out of a trail ride, and overheating can leave you stranded and potentially damage engine parts.

If you approach the cooling system with the same enthusiasm as you do an axle upgrade, you can be rewarded with a dependable system that you will never have to worry about. You may also be able to gain some performance and fuel economy while you’re at it!

Packing Heat
In order to diagnose an overheating problem or build a great system, it helps to understand how the cooling system is supposed to work. Your engine produces heat as it runs. The heat is transferred to liquid coolant which is circulated through the radiator with the water pump. The radiator transfers the heat from the coolant to the air that flows through the grille. The fan blows air through the radiator to increase the rate of heat transfer.

In addition to this basic system overview, there are a couple more things you should know about. The thermostat closes off the coolant flow to the radiator to let the engine come up to temperature and to keep the engine above the minimum operating temp. The system is pressurized to increase the boiling point of the coolant. As the temperature goes up inside the system, the pressure increases. The radiator cap has a pressure release valve that’s designed to hold a specific amount of pressure, usually about 16 psi. Once the system boils, air is separated from the liquid, and it’s all over, literally.

Thar She Blows!
If your 4x4 has an overheating problem, the first step is to figure out what is causing the issue. Here are a couple of rules of thumb. If your 4x4 keeps cool on the highway but overheats in traffic or on slow moving trails, you most likely have an airflow problem. If it usually runs cool at idle, but overheats at highway speeds, your radiator probably isn’t up to par. It could be too small, not efficient enough, or clogged. This is also the case if your truck runs cool until you get into situations where you’re making a lot of power; in a mud bog or at the sand dunes, for example. If you overheat while towing, it could be either radiator or airflow, or both. Towing heavy loads is one of the biggest challenges for a cooling system.

There’s also the situation where everything has been fine for years and then the engine starts running hotter or simply overheats all of a sudden. This is usually caused by parts going bad. If the problem starts all of a sudden, it’s often a failed thermostat. If the temperature gradually increases over weeks or months, a water pump or radiator could be the culprit.

Also consider when the overheating started. If you made changes that have added significant horsepower, then more engine heat can be expected. We’ve also run into overheating problems caused by the ignition timing slipping 5 to 10 degrees, or by switching to a carburetor that was much leaner. Think about what modifications you made just before the overheating started to see if it’s a cooling system issue at all.

  • While most people jump into radiators and fans with a cooling problem, start with the basics. A failed radiator cap can cause overheating by letting pressure escape, lowering the boiling point of the coolant. If it’s old and cheap, replace it with a new high-quality cap.
    While most people jump into radiators and fans with a cooling problem, start with the basi
  • Another component that goes bad in the cooling system is the thermostat. If you have an inconsistent overheating problem, or if the problem starts all of a sudden, often the thermostat has failed. Some people like to put in lower temperature thermostats: This lowers the minimum engine operating temperature, but generally won’t cure an overheating problem.
    Another component that goes bad in the cooling system is the thermostat. If you have an in
  • An electric fan is popular for off-roading because it removes the potential of a belt-driven fan from hitting the fan shroud, and it solves overheating issues at slow-speed or idle. Just like a mechanical fan, though, proper shrouding is very important. The fan shroud should cover as much of the radiator as possible.
    An electric fan is popular for off-roading because it removes the potential of a belt-driv
  • There are a lot of choices for belt-driven fans. This Flex-a-lite Flex Fan (right) will move air at slower engine speeds, but flatten out at higher rpm, reducing the amount of power it takes to spin the fan. This gives good cooling and a performance gain. For a tow vehicle or one you use in the mud or sand, though, you want optimum airflow even at higher rpm, and you should stick with a fixed blade fan and heavy-duty clutch.
    There are a lot of choices for belt-driven fans. This Flex-a-lite Flex Fan (right) will mo
  • If you run a belt-driven fan, you need to have a proper fan shroud to pull the air through the radiator instead of around it. The blades should be half in and half out of the shroud for optimum airflow, and there should be approximately one inch of clearance between the tip of the fan blade and the shroud opening. This area can be a problem for off-road vehicles with a lot of flex between the engine and the radiator.
    If you run a belt-driven fan, you need to have a proper fan shroud to pull the air through
  • Don’t be afraid to trim the fan shroud slightly to clear the water inlet or outlet. Do make sure that the shroud seals against the radiator all the way around. It’s ideal to have the fan motor mounted 1 to 2 inches away from the radiator, although some tight situations call for a low profile fan setup like the one shown here.
    Don’t be afraid to trim the fan shroud slightly to clear the water inlet or outlet. Do mak
By Cole Quinnell
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