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Question: I have an '84 Chevy Silverado C-10. I know it sounds stupid but, recently I was muddin' with my friends and my tranny went out. I have a TH700R4 in it now as we took the old one out and replaced it, but now it won't shift up. We're thinking that it is the detent cable but we're not so sure. Can you help?
Answer: Very easily could be what's referred to as a TV cable. There is no vacuum modulator on the TH700R4, so shifts are controlled by tension on this cable. While not totally the correct way to adjust this cable, here is what has worked for me: Remove the connection from the carb linkage, push on the detent button and push the sliding piece of plastic into the housing so that it fits flush. Now pull on the cable just enough to be able to hook it up to the carb linkage. Open the carb to full throttle with your hand. It will take a bit of effort, as it must pull the sliding piece out of the housing. This puts the proper amount of pressure on the cable and resulting linkage within the transmission. Shift points can be slightly fine-tuned by adjusting the preload in or out a notch or two
A 27 for a 30?
Question: I have a '70 Kaiser/Jeep CJ-5 that I'm restoring. The Jeep has a Dana 27 front axle, and manual steering with the bellcrank-type linkage. I would like to swap this out for a Dana 30 with power steering. How involved would this swap be, and what would be needed to install the steering components for this? I am also thinking of installing front and rear disc brakes.
Answer: The power steering swap is a pretty easy one. You can study a '72-and-later Jeep steering system and duplicate it using a Jeep Wagoneer steering box, or one from a fullsize GM vehicle. I would use a fullsize GM passenger-car box for its slower ratio instead of a super-quick box from, say, a Camaro. You will need either an aftermarket steering arm or one from a Wagoneer. It should have the proper amount of drop so that the drag link is somewhat parallel to the tie rod in order to prevent bumpsteer. You will also need the metal ends of the fluid lines that attach to the steering box and pump. Any hydraulic shop can make up your custom-length hoses.
Places like Borgeson (Dept. FW, 1050 S. Main St., Torrington, CT 06790, 860/482-8283, www.borgeson.com) have the U-joints, couplers and shafts you will need. Lots of people use modified GM tilt-wheel columns. If you don't want to scrounge the needed parts, Advance Adapters sells a complete steering conversion kit and instructions. If your Jeep has the V-6, then the power-steering pump and mount can come from an early Buick passenger car V-6 or 350 V-8.
For disc brakes, Stainless Steel Brakes (11470 Main St., Clarence, NY 04031, 716/759-8666, www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com) has complete kits to make the conversion.
Question: I have been driving my partially restored '78 Scout for about a year now and I want to lift it. I was considering a 4-inch Skyjacker kit with some 35-inch BFG or Big O MTs and some Tera Flex Revolver shackles and was wondering how much they would rub. I could handle some rubbing with tight turns but I don't want my fenders or tires getting torn up at little bumps
I also wanted suggestions about how to get more power out of my Scout's two-barrel 304 V-8 without spending a fortune.
Answer: The clearance will be a bit tight, but go ahead and do it. You may end up needing a body lift also. Keep in mind that in reality you should have at least 4.10 gears. If you're running 3.73, 3.54, or 3.07 gears, your Scout will really be a dog because the rpm will be out of the proper torque band. If you have 3.73 or 3.54 gears, then I really suggest you don't go any larger than a set of 33s, which will work with the 4-inch lift kit.
As to more power, I would first suggest a quality tune-up, one that may include new spark-plug wires if warranted. Don't bother looking for an aftermarket manifold because there isn't one for the 304, or for any of the IH motors. The 345s and the 392s had an optional four-barrel carburetor available in either a square-bore Holley design or a spread-bore Thermo-quad. Some people go to a larger Holley two-barrel carb but I feel that the 500-cfm two-barrel loses some needed low-speed throttle response. Comp Cams and Snider Cams have several grinds to improve engine output. Stan's has headers for the Scout, high in quality with a price that reflects it. I believe Super Scout (Dept. FW, 5550 Old Lower Valley Pike, Springfield, OH 45506, 800/331-5035 or 513/882-6464, members.aol/suprscout) handles all these items plus a lot more great parts to keep your Scout running for a long time.
Question: In your article the "Ultimate Carb Test," (May, '01), you mentioned a wedged carb spacer to ensure the best float performance. Who sells the wedged spacer?
Answer: I finally found the wedge spacer for the Quadrajet at Glenwood Marine Equipment in Gardena, California (323/757-3141). At $82, it was a bit more expensive than I expected.
Because the engine in this test Jeep sits high and the driveshaft is quite short, the engine was angled downward at the rear for better driveline angularity. This placed the carb at an angle that was the same as climbing a 15-degree hill even when on level ground. To make a fair test with the fuel level in the float bowl level, the spacer was necessary
Question: I can't find anyone who makes 16.5 beadlock rims. I'm sure I'm not the only one who has run into this problem. My rig is a '92 Ford Bronco. I'm running '95 F-250 eight-lug rear and Dana 50 front IF.
Answer: You're right, Jason. They are scarce, but I tracked some down for you at Avalanche Engineering (Dept. FW, 40039 Highway 160, Bayfield, CO 81122, 303/777-4820, www.avalancheengineering.com). These are nice looking beadlocks and are as tough as any you will find. They offer a couple of features that aren't found on most, such as recessed button-head bolts and a type of locking ring that centers the tire on the rim.
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