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Wants External Slave Cylinder For Ford
Question: I have a '95 Ford F-150 with a Mazda five-speed transmission (with a solid bellhousing) that is four-wheel drive. The trans has an internal slave cylinder for the clutch. I would like to know if anyone makes a kit to put the slave cylinder on the outside of the transmission so you don't have to drop the trans every year to replace the slave cylinder.
Answer: Yep, it should last a lot longer than one year. Ford has issued a couple of service bulletins on this due to past problems. In fact, they have a revised slave cylinder which has a new dust shield and upgraded lip seal to help prevent leakage of hydraulic fluid from the interior seal (PN F87Z-7A508-AA).
Could it be that you're buying your cylinder from a local discount auto parts store and that their supplier has never updated the design?
There is also the possibility that you're not bleeding the system properly. I believe the proper revised bleeding instructions come with the cylinder if you get it from Ford. If not, ask the parts guy if he can print you out a copy of Article No. 93-12-19. The procedure is quite extensive-a lot more than just opening the bleed valve and letting fluid flow.
Cherokee 2.8L Swap Options
Question: I'm in possession of an '86 Jeep Cherokee Laredo with the 2.8L and three-speed auto. My questions are concerning a possible engine swap. Other than the 4.0L, knowing it will probably mean swapping out the entire front end, what other options might I have? Maybe an engine from another vehicle besides a Jeep, and which ones?
My local used parts suppliers all offer the 4.0 but with an extensive list of items that I would have to gather from various other vehicles. No engine would be complete. And the used sales lots want about as much as it would take me to transform my machine.
My intentions for this machine are a daily driver and some light 'wheeling in the foothills around Las Vegas, with an occasional trip to Moab or the like to explore some of the beginner trails. I'm looking at a 3.5- to 4.5-inch lift with slip-yoke eliminator, shafts, and 31- or 32-inch tires.
Answer: Let me tell you right off the start that selling the Jeep and buying one with a 4.0 in it will place you money ahead. My guess is that you didn't factor in the time involved. Also, don't forget you're going to have to swap out the wiring harness as well as the computer. I also would never consider buying a motor that was not complete. It's a crap shoot as to just how well the motor ran before the accident that placed it in the salvage yard. It would be very frustrating to make the swap and then find that the motor had a terrible knock or smoked badly. By trading up, at least you know what you're getting because you can drive the vehicle and actually check the motor out.
As far as an engine from another vehicle, I have seen some Chevy 4.3L V-6s installed that came out quite nicely. These incorporated the trans as well as the transfer case from the donor vehicle. Again, remember you're going to need the wiring harness and computer to match the new engine.
Bronco Disc-Swap Alternative
Question: I was just reading "Wants Bronco Disc Brakes on the Cheap" (Techline, Apr. '08). I agree that the master cylinder has to be changed, but for the Ford purists (which I am not), you can do the disc-brake swap without the use of Chevy parts. I have a Dana 44 out of a '71 Bronco under my '94 S-10, and to achieve disc brakes I swapped everything from the ball joints out with a Dana 44 out of a '79 F-150.
Answer: You're right. That is another way to do it, one I maybe should have mentioned. Like I said at the start of the second paragraph, "There are several ways you can do the front conversion." The nice thing about the early open-knuckle Dana 44s is that most of them have the same yoke spacing and offset, so parts are interchangeable. Doing it your way also gives the installer an easy option to replace the ball joints while doing the conversion. I am sure our readers will benefit from your solution.