Wants Stronger, Longer Driveshaft
Q We own a 1979 1-ton Crew Cab long bed 3+3 Chevy and have a driveshaft question. The rear driveshaft is a two piece driveshaft with a midshaft bearing. We are putting approximately 12 to 13 inches of lift under it and are concerned about the driveshaft having enough strength and durability. Our question is what will be the best way to upgrade the driveshaft for the best strength and durability? Do we lengthen the rear half of the driveshaft (keeping the midshaft bearing), lengthen both halves (keeping the midshaft bearing), or remove the midshaft bearing altogether and have a one-piece driveshaft made?
Shane and Heather House
Via fourwheeler.com
A Wow, that is a lot of lift, which also results in lot of driveshaft angularity. One long driveshaft would be out of the question. While it would take care of the angle problem, there would be way too much "whipping" motion as the driveshaft turned at highway speeds. I spoke with Joe Gould at Drivelines of Missoula (800/411-4116), and he said that not too long ago he made some driveshafts for something very similar to what you're building. The center mount had to be lowered about two inches, and two special driveshafts using a CV joint at each end were built. Sorry to say, but these shafts are going to be very expensive when you're finished.
Engine vs. Motor: What's in a Name?
Q Several times in your column, you have referred to vehicles having "motors" instead of an "engine." I was always taught that a motor was driven and an engine was the driving force. What is your take on this?
Fred Landrov
Bangor, ME
A That's a good question, and one that is often debated around the campfire. Consider these, then make your own decision:
Motorhome, motorcar, motorway, motor machinist , motor Mac (old Navy term for one who repairs engines), motorboat, outboard motor, Motor City (in reference to Detroit), motor cop, motorcycle, City Motors (in reference to a repair shop), motor's manual, motor camp (an early campground), Motor Trend magazine, Motor Age magazine, motor court (i.e., motel), motoring cap (a hat worn by early motorcar drivers), motor oil, motor carrier (trucking company), Motorcraft ( spark plugs, oil and air filters, etc.), Department of Motor Vehicles, and car dealerships that use the word "motor" in their name. For now, I will stick with calling the propulsion unit in my Jeep a motor.
• Tech Letter Of The Month
Old-School Ford V-8 Swap Options
I have an '85 Ford F-150 with a 300 straight six. I've been told that a Ford 302 will bolt to my bellhousing. Is this true, and how much work will it be?
James I Mathis
Magna, UT
Yep, you have been told right. Just for you Ford fans, here is a partial list of some of the other engines by Ford that also share the same block bolt pattern.
| 240 I-6 |
351 Cobra Jet V-8 |
| 300 I-6 |
351 Windsor V-8 |
| 250 I-6 |
5.0L V-8 |
| 289 V-8* |
5.8L V-8 |
| 351 Cleveland V-8 |
|
*(made after August 3, 1964; six-bolt bellhousing)
As to how much work is involved-well, quite a bit. As you know, the 300ci Sixes of that year used a carburetor, but in 1985 Ford went to multiport injection on the V-8 engines. To meet federal emissions laws, you must install an engine of the same year or later. So this means that you will have to obtain the computer and the complete engine wiring harness that matches the engine. While time-consuming, it's not an impossible task to make this swap. Naturally, you will have to put in the V-8 engine mounts [motor mounts?-Ed.] and move the radiator rearward.
Willie's Workbench
Some Thoughts on Brakes and Fluid
Let's take on the subject of power brakes first. The brake booster indirectly allows better stopping ability by allowing a person to develop the necessary line pressure with less leg pressure. I am not sure if you can even buy a vehicle any more that doesn't come equipped with power brakes.
Just keep this in mind: If the brakes are sized properly (that is, the master and wheel cylinders match the drum/caliper size), a booster is not necessary. While it's nice to have, what happens when the engine stalls on steep descent? You generally get one good push of the pedal. After that, it's both feet on the brake pedal when trying to stop. I recently pulled out a buddy on a long, steep rocky trail when his fuel pump failed. In fact it was about 12 miles of trail that was mostly downhill but quite rocky. I guarantee you that he had sore legs and back when we got to the trailer.
When I built my very-modified flat fender, I decided that I was not going to use a brake booster. I spent a considerable amount of time figuring lever-arm ratios and master cylinder size. I do have to push the pedal further than if I had power brakes, but it does provide the proper braking with just a bit more effort. Race vehicles don't use boosters, and they stop a 4,000-pound Nascar vehicle from 200 mph quite nicely, thank you.