Dual Heaters for Soft-Top Bronco?
I am running a soft top on a Bronco year-’round. I resealed the original heater box and replaced the air ducts, and it functions fine. I have been doing some research on auxiliary heaters, and have found articles and reviews about Heater Craft (Moab) and Mojave heaters from Flex-a-Lite. My intent is to have two heaters run in series, I guess. Will that cut output so much neither heater will function well?
The whole secret to a warm interior, or good heater output, is water temperature. I think that one heater would be sufficient for most instances if you can maintain engine water temperature in the 200-degree range. Naturally, good flow through the heater core is very important, so the core must be in very good condition with no calcium buildup in the tubes. This means you may have to (1) have the core cleaned at a radiator shop, or (2) buy a new core. Blower output is also important, as you really need to move a large volume of air over the heater’s core
As to using two heaters, yes, this is very possible. You would have to devise some way to run the hot water to each heater unit. If you tried to run it through one heater and then to the second one, most of the heated water would be lost and the second heater would have very little output. The difficulty comes with finding a mounting location and safely running the two hoses to it. If the length of the hose run is long, such as to under the back seat, you’ll probably need some way to insulate the hoses to prevent heat loss before it reaches the heater core.
I have used the Heater Craft heater in my softtop flatfender, and it worked excellently, providing all the heat we generally needed; however, we never used the Jeep in below zero-degree weather.
You might want to take a look at the heaters offered by Danhard (www.Danhard.com); they have a pretty extensive line-up of high output heaters in various sizes. In fact, I just installed their model 1412 in my new flatfender.
Wants OD Transmission for Older 360 V-8
I own an ’87 Dodge Ramcharger 4x4 with a 360 V-8 and TorqueFlite 727 transmission. Is there an automatic overdrive tranny that can be bolted in place of the TF727 so I can lower my highway rpm and hopefully improve mpg. The truck has stock gears, and I run 33-inch Firestone Destination mud-terrains. The truck was supposed to be used for hunting and fishing, but it is a lot more fun as a daily driver than my Taurus.
As I look at it, there are a couple of ways you can do this to gain some higher gearing and not hurt off-road performance. The first is to swap transmissions. This can be pretty simple using an A518 or an A618 transmission. I came up with a wiring system for it at www.transmissionconter.net.
The spline count is probably the same. As far as the length it sticks out, I have no idea. This swap will only work with the early-style A518/618 transmissions. They came in two-wire non-lock-up and three-wire lock-up versions. This swap would not be worth it in my eyes if you were not using a three-wire lock-up for rpm reasons. I don’t know about transfer case compatibility, I only know that “some” early Dodge diesels that had the 618 used the NP 205 with a round pattern that dropped to the passenger side. There are different switches for different speeds that control where you want lock up in Fourth to apply. Then, when you accelerate, vacuum and throttle pressure will override and downshift.
An RE-series transmission out of a ’95-and-newer Dodge will require a totally different approach to use for a swap. You will need a lot of time to figure out wiring and computer swapping. Perhaps some aftermarket company may produce a stand-alone computer system; perhaps an Internet search on the subject will produce some information. The older A518/618s still have a mechanical governor, and only Fourth gear and lock-up. Transmission guys tell me that these early Dodge overdrives are not the greatest transmissions without lots of help (i.e., a very updated rebuild).
Your other choice is to consider adding an auxiliary gearbox such as is available from Gear Vendors (www.gearvendors.com). They are pretty expensive, so it will take quite awhile for payback on just mileage savings. However, there will be less wear on the engine resulting from the lower rpm,, and you will be able to turn your three-speed into a six-speed trans. In top gear, it will be like going from a 4.11:1 gear set to a 3.20:1 gear.
Wants 8 on 6½ Bolt Pattern for Sterling 10.5
I have a Sterling 10.5-inch rearend with the 8x170 metric bolt pattern. I’d like to switch it to the 8-on-6½ pattern without using a wheel spacer. I know that the 10.25 had an 8-on-6½ pattern. Is it possible to switch just the hubs so that I can get this bolt pattern? I do realize I’ll have to run different discs and do some fabrication to make it work.
From what I know about the Sterling rearend, and it is very little, is that it seems that the 10.25s with the 8-on-6½ bolt pattern had drum brakes. However, it seems that the shafts are different lengths between the 10.25 and the 10.5. The spindles are shorter on the 10.5, and so are the hubs. The 10.25 studs are bigger and have a finer thread, and strange as it sounds, the 10.25 bearings are a lot bigger than those of the 10.5.
It seems the only way you’re going to get the non-metric bolt pattern is to re-drill the hubs and rotors. I’m not sure if there really is enough room to do this without weakening the hub, so the metric holes may have to be welded up. But then again, maybe not. The more I looked into it, I began to hear rumors that ’99-and-up E-series Ford vans used the disc brakes and had a standard bolt pattern. A check with All Data showed that yes, indeed, the vans had disc brakes, but I couldn’t find any information as to bolt pattern. An interesting thing about the vans is that some had Dana 70s instead of the Sterling. Go figure.
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