Bolt-in Engine Swap?
I have a ’98 Jeep Wrangler TJ with the 2.5L and I am curious about what V-6s would be an option that would bolt in without any other changes?
There is no such thing as a “bolt in motor swap” for your TJ. Most likely the easiest V-6 to install would be the Chevy 4.3 V-6. Your present transmission, an Aisin-Warner AX-5, I feel is not up to any additional power and is marginal at best for any hardcore four-wheeling. However, there must be a limited market for such usage as Advance Adapters (www.advanceadapters.com) offers an adaptor. However, the company also makes a kit to adapt the much stronger AX-15 transmission (it is normally found behind the 4.0L six-cylinder) to the four-cylinder engine. If you are unfortunate enough to have an auto tranny, the transmission is labeled a 30RH, which is a version of the Chrysler TorqueFlite 999; however, I am pretty sure no adapters exist for it nor would you want to use it.
A transmission swap is definitely in order along with an adapter from it to the transfer case. You will also need new motor mounts, radiator, wiring harness to match the engine you pick, and most likely modifications to the driveshafts. Wish I had better news for you, but that is what is involved.
Please don’t laugh as I have been a reader of Four Wheeler for a lot of years but my ’02 Subaru Outback has a strange noise. It is a low-pitched groan that appears to be coming from the engine compartment whenever I turn the steering wheel at slow speeds. The mechanic I took it to wants to replace the power steering pump, which is quite expensive; however, it doesn’t seem to make any noise when the wheels are not being turned. Before I have it replaced I thought I would check with the experts.
It’s normal for a power steering pump to make some noise as pressure builds when the steering wheel is turned. It may or may not be the pump that is failing but it sure could be. It is quite common for the ’00-’02 Legacy and the Outback with the 2.5L motor to sound like a dying horse when turning. It is probably making the noise when you’re driving down the highway but you most likely can’t hear it over the engine, tire, and wind noise. The simple fix is to just remove the bolt and clamp that hold the two hoses together. I am not really sure why this noise exists and what removing the clamp has to do with it but I have been told that it works and that is what is important.
Now if that doesn’t solve the problem, then I suggest replacing the high-pressure hose with a new-style updated hose under P/N 34610AE09B. Any good parts store can cross over this number to an in-stock brand. Oh and leave the clamp off. If the noise is still there, then your mechanic was right and the pump likely needs to be replaced.
Here is a tech question for you about auto trans coolers. Can you get the tranny too cold? Specifically, if I were to put a normal tube/fin cooler on an auto-equipped vehicle, do I need to worry about it in the winter months? The more expensive stacked-plate coolers (like B&M) apparently have a bypass valve that works based on viscosity, which is obviously directly related to temperature. So the question is, are the cheaper coolers a good idea for mixed climates like we have in Washington?
West Richland, WA
Yes, a transmission cooler can get too cold. Lubes like to operate in a given temperature range for best wear quality control, be it gear lube, engine oil, or transmission fluid. I have been told by transmission builders that the temperature measured within the oil pan should be 100 to 170 degrees. Yes, synthetic fluid can operate at a wider range than that, but can some of the plastic parts as well as others handle the higher temps? A 170-degree oil temp may not sound very hot, but keep in mind the real temperature is in the torque converter, especially under a heavy load with slippage. It is really easy for temperatures to exceed 250 degrees for a short time. Keeping the temperature within this range allows for sudden spikes in temperature that can be easily absorbed.
I feel that stacked-plate coolers are much better at extracting heat than the tube-and-fin type. However, they have to be as close to the radiator as possible. This is because they have quite a bit of resistance to air flowing through them and the air will have a tendency to just flow around, and not through, the plates. Yes, some of the coolers offered by B&M do have the system you mentioned to control excessive fluid cooling when cold. As to the tube-and-fin coolers, keep in mind that only the boundary layer of fluid that is right against the tubing is what gets cooled. The exception is the coolers that have turbulators within the tubes, such as those pioneered by Perma-Cool (www.perma-cool.com). The turbulators cause the fluid to spin as it is pushed through the tube exposing much more fluid to the tube’s walls where the heat is dissipated.
Wide ranges of temp changes definitely are a problem in the Northwest. Another way would be to put in a bypass valve of some kind that thermostatically directs the fluid path. However, I am not sure it is necessary. You have a couple of choices: run the fluid first through the auxiliary cooler then through the cooler built into the radiator tank. That way you cool the fluid, and then possibly bring it back up a few degrees after it exits the radiator. Yes, the fluid will be somewhat cooler than radiator temperature; however, I can’t really explain why. One would think that it would be close to the same temp as the coolant in the radiator but it is always is considerably lower. Another way would be to go through the radiator first then through the auxiliary cooler. This way you get the best possible cooling effect.
If you think that the temperature is too cool during the winter, one could simply place something in front of the auxiliary cooler to stop the airflow. That is my game plan for the new flatfender Jeep I built. In fact I made sure that my return line comes out the top of the cooler to prevent the fluid from draining back to the transmission when the engine is shut off, as the auxiliary cooler is mounted at the upper section of the radiator. This is just the opposite of common practice but it has worked for me in the past.
Oh, and a tip from one with a past experience, after a few heat cycles go back and tighten all of the hose clamps and fittings. You can’t believe what a mess a couple of quarts of ATF can do when a hose comes loose and, well, ATF hits the fan.
The bottom line is pull the transmission oil pan, braze in a bung and install a transmission temperature gauge in a location where it won’t touch any of the internal components. Even better would be to buy one of the aluminum pans with fins on the bottom and a fitting already in it. Not only are they of much heavier construction, which may or may not be able to take a rock hit without damage, but they offer better cooling potential and typically hold an additional two quarts of fluid. With a gauge you will know for sure what is happening temperature-wise. Shoot for no more than 150-170 degrees.