I have a ’98 GMC Jimmy and I’m having trouble finding lift kits. I have come across the Trail Master lift, but no others. Do you know of any other lift options? Also, what would be a good tire and lift combo for on- and off-road use?
In addition to Trail Master, Superlift (www.superlift.com) and Rough Country (www.roughcountry.com) make suspension lifts for your Jimmy. Performance Accessories (www.performanceaccessories.com) offers 2-inch body lifts for the Jimmy as well. Given that the fenderwell openings are on the small side, most of the manufactures only suggest running a 31-inch tire. With a little trimming you can clear 32s, and with a heavy amount (think big saw and hammer) you can run 33s. The stock axles on the Jimmy are not the strongest, so I wouldn’t push it much over the 33-inch tire mark. The lower you can keep your rig, the more stable it will be off-road. If you are building a monster mudder, then get the tallest lift you can. For your average trail wheeling and daily driving, I would stick with a 31- to 32-inch tire. Try and achieve those tire goals with the least amount of lift possible.
I have a ’89 Jeep Cherokee XJ and would like to run a dual battery set up. Are there any kits available for my make?
You’re in luck. Wrangler NW Power Products (www.wranglernw.com) makes exactly what you are looking for.
I recently installed a Banks cold air intake system on my ’00 Ford F-250 that’s equipped with the 7.3L diesel. I have since found the engine makes a new sound just before it shifts into a lower gear. It is especially noticeable when pulling a heavy load like my R.V. trailer. It sounds like a bad turbo bearing. I had my mechanic check it over and he says everything looks good, but he had no idea why the new sound. Could it be a difference in airflow that I am now hearing? Have you received any other reports of a new sound with installation of a cold air intake?
I would do an once-over of all of your hose-fittings and clamps around the intake, intercooler, and turbo to make sure you are not getting any air bypass. It’s actually not uncommon to experience increased engine/intake noise after installing a cold air intake. The stock airbox on your truck is engineered to reduce intake noise levels. Most modern autos are fitted with silencers and small airflow diverters to calm and tune intake noise levels. Since your 7.3L is a turbocharged engine, the spooling turbo and changing boost levels are likely more audible now that the factory intake is removed.
Diesel Power Wagon
Do you guys know the reason behind the new Power Wagon not getting a diesel option?
(Editor John Cappa responds:) There are several reasons. In the real world where this truck is designed to work well, a diesel, as we know it, would be a hindrance. The 6.7L Cummins is nearly twice as heavy as the 5.7L Hemi currently found in the Power Wagon. The added weight would simply ruin the off-road performance at any kind of speed. You would have to dump the 4.56 gears to keep the low-revving diesel happy. Plus, the addition of a diesel engine would require an intercooler. Unfortunately, the intercooler wants to sit in the same place as the winch and possibly the electronic-disconnecting sway bar. So at the end of the day a diesel Power Wagon would have less off-road content. You’d likely only have a tire and wheel package, skidplates, front and rear lockers, a few stickers, and an estimated well-outfitted price close to the $60,000 mark. No thanks! We’ll take the Hemi Power Wagon.
I currently own an ’86 Jeep CJ-7 and an older 5.0L V-8 engine. My plan is to drop the 5.0L in the Jeep, but I have heard that the stock AMC transmission is not strong enough to hold the power. I’ve read that both the T-18 and T-19 manual transmissions will work. I had a T-18 in my Scout and enjoyed the granny gear at the time, but I don’t plan on doing any rockcrawling with this Jeep.
I will be driving the Jeep on the road a fair amount and need something that will keep the rpm’s low at highway speeds. I also own a ’89 Ford F-150 with the M5OD-R2 transmission and BorgWarner manual-shift transfer case. I have never had any trouble out of that combo and thought it might be a good option. Before I start my search for the Mazda transmission I would like to hear what suggestions you have.
Via Snail Mail
There are a few options that can work well behind the 5.0L. Since you want to hit the highway more and rocky trails less, I suggest looking at the five-speed manual options. While the M5OD-R2 five-speed will work, it isn’t known for being the strongest or most reliable transmission. Simply put -it would not be my first pick. My top choice would be the NV4500. The NV4500 is a heavy-duty five-speed manual that is more than capable of holding the 5.0L power output and then some. There are a few variations of the NV4500, but plenty of aftermarket support and adapters from companies like Hi-Impact Transmission & Gear (www.high-impact.net). Another option would be the NV3550. The NV3550 isn’t nearly as robust as the NV4500, but it can handle mild V-8 power and will likely be a less expensive option. Both transmissions will allow you to attach a range of transfer cases and would make a great fit for your project.
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