It's quite expensive to modify tire molds, so don't expect to see changes on tires already in production, even if it turns out that rim protectors are more evil than good on the trail. However, Pit Bull is working with Hutchison to have wheels made that will work perfectly with the Pit Bull line of tires, and it is also considering eliminating the rim guard on at least one side of the tire (it doesn't do much good on the inside, anyway).
Probably our best bet is for you readers to help sort this out. What we'd like is an e-mail from you describing which tire-and-wheel combinations you've had really good or bad luck with. We would like to know if it stays on the rim when running low pressures or if the tire tends to lose beads with ease. For this information to be useful, we'd need to know the size, make, and model of both the tire and wheel. Writing only "chrome spokes" or "aluminum directionals" won't do us much good, but "American Racing Outlaw II," for example, would. "BFGoodrich Mud-Terrain" could be either first-, second-, or current-generation, and "35-inch Swampers" could be darn near anything from Interco. Since each tire and wheel is different, we need to know which one it really is, plus what kind of vehicle you're running them on and at what pressures. If enough meaningful responses come in, we could make a listing of what works together and what doesn't, something we could all learn from. Send your input to fourwheelereditor@sourcerinterlinnk.com. You won't win anything, but you will help your fellow 'wheelers-and maybe yourself too.
If the tires you run are creating problems, consider removing the rim protectors (if so equipped), at least on the inside. It's easier than you'd think, especially if the tires are dismounted. Using a grooving iron is a near-must if the tire is still on the rim. However, it's also the most likely way to screw up the tire, by cutting too deep
 Cutting a rim guard off with...  Cutting a rim guard off with side cutters works quite well, but unless you're really patient and use a tool that cuts very cleanly, smooth out the cut surfaces with a 36-grit disc on a sander afterwards. Don't let the disc or tire get too warm or the rubber clogs it up quickly. |  A grooving iron is the fastest...  A grooving iron is the fastest removal method, especially on tires with thick rim guards, like the Krawler. It's also about the only way to remove the extra rubber if the tire is still on the wheel, and the rim can then be used as a guide for the cut. Either way, start with a lot shallower cut than what would seem to be the right depth for the blade. You can always make a second, deeper cut if need be. | |
* While the side-pull testing revealed a few tire-and-wheel combinations that may not be ideal for low-pressure trail use, we also got information about other setups that supposedly didn't work out all that well. If you're into running single-digit inflation pressures on a light vehicle, or in the low teens with something weighing 5,000 pounds or more, consider avoiding the following combos:
* BFG Krawlers on MRT composite bead-lock wheels.
* Pit Bull tires on Allied aluminum bead-lock wheels.
* Pit Bull tires on Weld Super Single-style wheels.
* Pit Bull tires on Mickey Thompson Classic II wheels.
* Super Swamper LTB tires made before 2002 on most any wheel.
* Super Swamper TSLs on Rock Crawler wheels.
* If Pit Bull tires seem overrepresented here, it's only because we had three sets of them to try, but not many other tires.
* BFG Krawlers on Trail Ready bead-lock wheels.
* BFG Krawlers on Walker Evans bead-lock wheels.
* BFG Krawlers on OMF bead-lock wheels.
* Mickey Thompson Baja Belted on American Racing Outlaw wheels.
* Super Swamper Boggers on Weld Super Single-style wheels.
* BFG Mud-Terrain KOs on Weld Super Single-style wheels.
* Goodyear MTR on MRT steel bead-lock wheels.
* Any tire that has rusted onto its steel rim over time.
Pulling at 90-degree angle on aggregate concrete until tire dragged or lost air
| TIRE | WHEEL | RIM GUARD | LOST AIR AT | COMMENTS |
| Pit Bull Growler 35x14.50-15 | Allied Racing Bead lock 15x10 | Inside and outside | 3.5 psi | Pit Bull tires flex so well there's no real need to run less than 5 psi |
| Pit Bull Growler 35x14.50-15 | Allied Racing Bead lock 15x10 | Outside | 1 psi | Removing the inner rim guard proved helpful on this setup. |
| Pit Bull Growler 35x14.50-15 | American Eagle 15x10 | N/A | Less than 1 psi | Between the rim design and removed rim guards, a trail-worthy combination. |
| Pit Bull Rocker 35x14.50-15 | Centerline 15x10 | Inside and outside | No loss | With a good inner safety bead the old Centerline refused to let go of the tire. |
| Super Swamper LTB 34x10.50-15 | Stock CJ 15x6 steel | N/A | 5 psi | These early production LTBs were hard to keep on any wheel, especially a crusty old steel one. |
| BFG Krawler 35x13.50R15 | American Eagle 15x10 | Inside | No loss above 2 psi | Still-wet tire lube may have helped keep the tire from losing air. |
| BFG Krawler 35x13.50R15 | American Eagle 15x10 | Outside | No loss above 2 psi | Rim guards on the outside seemed to make no difference in this test. |
| Cepek Fun Country 31x10.50-15 | White spoke 15x8 | N/A | No loss | After 20 years on rim, we would have been surprised if the tire had come off. |
| Pit Bull Mad Dog 35x14.50-15 | M/T Classic II 15x10 | Inside and outside | 5 psi | A good tire and a good wheel but not a good combination. |