25 Of The Best Junkyard Parts
And They Belong On Your Jeep
Back in my college days I used to have a real problem. Not with the Dean’s daughter or with my GPA. I was hooked on junkyards. For some reason, whenever I got the chance I’d hit the self-serve junkyards, pay my $1 entry, and wander the aisles of cars and trucks. To me, it was better entertainment than any movie or playing golf.
However, where there were once rows upon rows of big-block Mopar 383s, Chevy ½-, ¾-, and 1-ton pickups, motorhomes housing rebuildable 454s or 460s, and Q-jets cluttering the ground, something changed. All of a sudden, I started seeing injected 5.0L Cougars, 305 TPI Camaros and Firebirds, and scores and scores of 4.0L XJs. It seems the digital, injected world was wearing out—all the better for us. Here are some killer parts for your Jeep that should be at a junkyard near you.
It’s not often you stumble across a Warn or early Saturn overdrive, but it does happen. This is the second junkyard Spicer 18 we’ve seen with the coveted range box. Look for them in early Scouts, CJs, Willys trucks, and flatties. The tipoff is the four shifters sticking up through the floor. You should also start looking for Spicer 18s because they’re bound to start getting rare. A good, non-rebuilt overdrive fetches around $400 to $500, while a decent Spicer 18 can get $150. The junkyard wanted $95 for the bellhousing, T-90, T-case, and overdrive because it’s just a manual transmission to them.
Carbureted Chevy V-8
Still the staple, just about any Chevy V-8 will up the power of your Jeep. Go on half-price day and you can nab a complete engine from carb to pan with all the accessories for around $90. Look for engines out of mid-’70s pickups and wagons because they were commonly four-bolt mains. To verify a four-bolt main block, check for the casting number (3932388) on the flat portion of the block on the driver side behind the cylinder head.
No Disconnect Dana 30
The high-pinion, non-disconnect Dana 30 housing found in ’89-’99 and some ’00 XJs is a great bolt-in swap for TJs with the low-pinion Dana 30. If you lop the mounts off and weld on spring perches, it makes a darn fine replacement for the CAD-equipped YJ front axle.
GM TBI or TPI 305 and 350
We’re nearly positive you’re not going to stumble across a Holley TPI-equipped engine in the junkyard like this one, but you will trip across dozens of throttle body (TBI) 305s and 350s in late-model pickups and vans. We’re even starting to see TPI-equipped Firebirds, Camaros, Corvettes, and some LT1 Caprices make their way to the great car garage in the sky. Don’t sweat if the harness has been chopped because Painless Performance has replacement harnesses. Just make sure all the sensors and injector hardware are present.
If you’re looking to swap a four-speed into your rig and are running or want to run a 32-spline input T-case, look for an SM465 out of an ’80-’88 GM four-wheel drive truck. These trannies have the same six-bolt round adapter bolt pattern as the NP, NV, Dana 300, and Atlas transfer cases and 32-spine shaft as some Atlas and the left-hand drop GM NV231 and 241 T-cases. The only drawback is the adapter (left) is about 7 inches long.
4.0L Throttle Body
For the four-banger crowd, an inexpensive alternative to an aftermarket bored throttle body is to use the stock 58mm 4.0L throttle body from a ’91-up XJ or MJ or a ’93-up ZJ in place of the stock 52mm throttle body. All the four-cylinder sensors and IAC housing will cross over and the throttle body bolts right to the manifold.
’99-up 4.0L Intake
Earlier 4.0L engines used a more squared-off, log-style intake manifold that hampered flow to the outer ports, especially the #1 and #6 cylinders. Beginning in ’99 Chrysler employed this horseshoe-shaped, high-flow manifold with individual runners. It’s said to be worth anywhere from 10hp to 25hp over the log-type manifold. You may need to convert to the later power steering brackets and move a few vacuum lines, but the manifold bolts to all 4.0L engines. You can also use this manifold as a way of converting from the earlier Renix-style injection.
While they’re not an ideal swap candidate and are a full 1½-inches narrower than a Jeep axle, the Ford 8.8 rear axle found in Ford Explorers has the same 5x4.5 bolt pattern found on the XJ, YJ, and TJ. Look for the ’95 and newer versions because they’re usually found with 4.10 gears, disc brakes, and 31-spline axleshafts. Swap kits are even available through the aftermarket.
Ford U-bolts and Spring Plates
If you need some U-bolts spring plates for 3-inch axletubes, any ’77-’86 Ford F-150, Bronco, or van has ’em. You’re not supposed to reuse U-bolts, swallow gum, or record football games without the express, written consent of the NFL … but we know you’ll do it anyway. Just make sure they are in good shape.
XJ and MJ Dana 44 rear
While rare, we do stumble across the coveted Dana 44 used sparingly in XJs and MJs from ’87-’89, usually in vehicles with the optional tow package. If you see a trailer hitch on a Unibody Jeep in the junkyard, it’s worth sticking your head under to see what rear axle is in it. These 60½-inch wide axles are a great swap for most YJ, XJ, and even TJs.
Disc Brakes for Early Axles
Starting in ’77, CJs got front disc brakes from the factory. If you find a ’77-’78 CJ in the junkyard, you can pull the entire brake system off the front Dana 30 and bolt it on to a Dana 25 or Dana 27 with just a little grinding on the older closed knuckle for clearance. Or you could use Chevy 1⁄2- or 3⁄4-ton calipers and caliper brackets, the 11⁄8-inch thick rotors for a ’77-’78 CJ, and the stock Jeep hub assembly.
For a lot of Jeep owners, swapping in a ’77-’86 9-inch from a Ford F-150 or Bronco makes sense. They’re 65-inches wide (van housings are about 3-inches wider), most have 31-spline shafts, the wheel pattern is 5x5.5, and they have big drum brakes. Look for a big “N” (shown in yellow) in the centersection to designate the desirable stronger Nodular-iron centersection.
Any Granny Tranny
Not what you’re thinking. We’re talking about any ’47-’67 SM420, ’68-’88 SM465 (shown), ’64-’93 NP435, or ’66-’89 T-18 four-speed crash boxes. Any one of these trannies (most CJ T-18s have 4.02:1 First) has a good First gear in the 6.32 to 7.02 range and can be easily adapted to several engines and transfer cases with the help of Advance Adapters, Novak Adapters, and JB Conversions. You’ll find the SM transmissions in GM ½-2½–ton trucks, the NP transmissions in Dodge and Ford vehicles, and the T-18 in Ford, International, and Jeeps.
Rochester or Motorcraft 2bbl
Another Hillbilly fuel injection for smaller engines, the Rochester 2bbl carb found on mid-’60s, mid-’70s GM V-6 engines works very well off-road and in the dirt. Likewise, the Motorcraft 2bbl off a Ford I-6 or small V-8 with 1.08 or 1.14-inch venturis works well for small Jeep engines. Use a Trans Dapt Performance Products (562/921-0404, tdperformance.com) adaptor, PN 2086, to mate the larger Ford carb to the Jeep manifold.
Look for the Dana 300 in ’80-up CJs as a great replacement to the earlier Spicer 18 and Dana 20 T-cases. You’ll need a different adapter when swapping from an 18 or 20, and the rear shaft should be upgraded to a 32-spline output, but the front should be OK as long as you’re not feeding it stupid amounts of horsepower or driveline bind.
Ford Taurus Electric Fan
Our resident electronics weirdo, Associate Editor Trasborg, claims the electric fan out of a V-6 Ford Taurus is able to cool mild V-8s in a single bound. Apparently, you’ll need to rig up a relay and thermally actuated or manual on/off switch, but otherwise it’s a cheap alternative to a spendy aftermarket unit.
If you’re looking for an inexpensive source for 1410 driveshaft components, look no further than your local military surplus supplier. The 2½-ton military “deuce and a halfs” use 1410-equipped driveshafts from the T-case to front axle and from the forward rear axle to the far rear axle. The jackshaft between the tranny and T-case and driveshaft between the T-case and forward rear axle is big truck Spicer stuff.
’80-’91 FSJ Wagoneer Dana 44
Yeah, they’re six-lug and some have the crappy vacuum-actuated center axle disconnect feature, but at about 60 inches wide and with 30-spline shafts, these driver-side pumpkin axles make a compelling argument for a cheap YJ, TJ, or ZJ swap. Check out the Isuzu Dana 44 rear axle swap in this story and you don’t even have to change the lug pattern.
XJ Gas Pedal
If you’re building your own buggy, retrofitting an older CJ, or are just sick of the way your floor-mounted pedal feels, nab a firewall-mounted pedal out of an XJ or MJ. They bolt on easily, and the throttle cable is usually a perfect match for an early Jeep with a V-6 or V-8.
We’ve got to credit the Web site earlycj5.com with the idea, but we snagged an aluminum radiator out of a first-generation Pontiac Fiero with a V-6 and it has worked out really well. The radiator is a good fit in the engine compartment of a Jeep CJ and has no trouble cooling the Jeep four-cylinder, Buick V-6, or 232 and 258 inline-sixes.
Saginaw 800 Steering Box
If you’re converting to power steering and want to mount the box inside the framerail, you need to nab a Saginaw 800 box out of a GM car from the ’70s or ’80s. The coveted ’76 box uses four mounting bolts, has extra webbing on the housing, larger bearings, and the numbers ’76 cast into the box on the bottom near the end cap.
’93-up Isuzu Dana 44 rear
The Dana 44 rear in Honda Passport and Isuzu cute utes is 58-inches wide, has six-lug axles, and comes from the factory with disc brakes. You’ll need to swap out the weird metric flange for a standard Dana 44 1310 or whatever yoke and cut and weld the spring perches to fit. Many have a limited slip and 4.10, 4.30, or 4.56:1 gears. One of the pinion bearings is different than a traditional Dana 44, but you can get a bearing and race from the parts store using the old race and bearing as reference. Somewhere around 1998 these axles went to a link and coil suspension with aluminum finned differential covers.
Often referred to as Hillbilly fuel injection, the small primaries, center-hung floats, and precise metering of the Q-Jet make it idle at crazy angles off-road. And its huge secondaries can support well up to 500hp when modified. Look for earlier versions from about ’70-’77 on GM cars and trucks to avoid most of the annoying electronic and smog features.
If you’re contemplating a front or rear disc brake swap, you need to nab yourself a pair of ’71-’91 calipers. There are subtle differences between the ’78-earlier and ’79-up generations, but if you’re building your own brackets they’re a great starting point and you can get parts and pads for them.
Unless you’re a long-time Jp reader, you probably didn’t realize that the story you just read was written over eight years ago. Yup, we cheated and picked up an old story from Jp’s May ’06 issue. Does that mean the information it contains is no longer relevant? Nope. And you know the best part? The staff of Jp has written hundreds of stories on all sorts of topics that are still equally relevant. And almost all of them are uploaded on our web site, jpmagazine.com. Want proof? Go to jpmagazine.com/junkyard_swaps, where we’ve compiled links to 25 stories from the past covering junkyard engines worth swapping in your Jeep; junkyard axles and where to find them, how wide they are, and what you need to install them; ideal junkyard transmissions; and junkyard T-case rebuild tips, where to find them, what vehicles they originally came in, and what’s worth your time and what’s not. It’s all there and it’s just a mouse click away at jpmagazine.com.