Mailbag: Jp Magazine Letters to the Editor

Mailbag

Classic Paint Color Sources
I really liked the two-part story on the rebuild of the 225ci engine. I am currently rebuilding a '68 Jeepster convertible. The last picture of the story said that you used a couple of rattle cans of the Alpine Green paint on the engine block. Where did you find the Alpine Green spray paint?
Robert Dunkel
Via email

We found the Dupli-Color Specialty Hi Temp Detroit Diesel Engine Enamel in Alpine Green at our local auto parts store. However, it can also be ordered through automotive parts suppliers such as Summit Racing (800/230-3030, summitracing.com).

Homegrown Tools
I know you will like this. My 1990 Wrangler had become very drippy. It was leaking tranny fluid all over the place. I cleaned off the transmission and found the leak was coming from a bad seal around the shift shaft on the top side of the transmission, and you can't see it without a mirror and laying on your back. Trying to pry the seal out with a screwdriver or pick is nearly impossible. They make a seal puller specifically for that hard to reach seal but it's nearly $30 for a one-time-use tool.

So instead of buying one, I made one out of a 3/4-inch pipe nipple, a pipe cap, and an old bolt. It cost me $4 and it worked great! The picture shows the seal still on the end of the puller. The threads on the pipe nipple are sharp, you can almost cut yourself on them, and they grab on very well.
Randy W.
Via email

225 V-6 Clarifications
We wanted to make a few "clarifications," if you will, to the 225 V-6 rebuild story ("Jeep Engine Overhaul," Sept. '19). An engine rebuild is a lengthy and complicated process, especially when you're doing it on your own and in your home garage. It's especially so if you're not a professional engine builder, even if you are an engineer working at a tier-one OEM automotive supplier, as is our hardworking author. Even more so when you run into multiple complications along the way, as he did during the two-part rebuild. Then you add in the fact that even with all the space allocated in the magazine for an engine rebuild piece, there is just no way to include all the details of the hundreds of steps, details, twists, and turns that occur during a project of that magnitude. Sometimes things get too condensed and details get lost or overlooked.

In the photo caption located at the bottom righthand side of page 50, we talk about the second of the two 225 V-6 donors we had. It is possible that the connecting rods used in that engine's prior rebuild (or any rebuild for that matter) were from a batch of cores that were previously marked during other rebuilds. The most important things are whether the pistons are oriented correctly, whether the rod chamfers are lined up with the crank fillets, and whether the rod side clearances are in spec.

If we had more room, we would have added to the middle lefthand side photo caption on page 52 that the "ridge" is built-up carbon. A ridge reamer can be used to remove the carbon as well as the unworn metal above the area of ring travel. Our block needed machine work to bore it out to have a smooth finish for the new pistons. The machinist made it happen, and we ordered a set of 0.060-over Egge pistons to fill those holes.

The photo at the top right of page 54 shows another block (not our 225 V-6) being checked for cracks with the valves. Leaving the valves and springs in place while performing magnetic particle inspection would obscure any cracks in the valve seats, ports, guides, or spring seat areas. This photo was meant as a sneak peek into what happens behind the scenes at the machine shop when you drop your parts off to have work done.
-Editor

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